GNER 125 decoder?

[70s kid]

After 40 years I'm returning to model railways and finding the transition from literally 'plug and play' to the new digital train technology a steep learning curve so I hope I can get help/advice without making everyone suck their teeth in angst at what will I'm sure at times seem silly questions. 

Anyway onto my question. 

I bought a second-hand GNER 125 that is beautiful and runs great with the analog controller. I know I have to get a DCC decoder to enable its use with DCC controller and I've soldering iron at the ready after reading lots of online advice. My question is which decoder? Some decoders I think have sound so if I buy one with sound option, will that add sound to the GNER 125 - if so, where does it come out without a loudspeaker outlet? The train is about 15 years old so I'm guessing pre-dates sound decoders but my main query is what decoder to get it able to operate on DCC as I've bought a Hornby elite in anticipation. 

Many thanks 

Gerry 

[96RAF]

@70's

You have to fit a speaker to get sound out of a sound decoder. These are many and various in type from sugar cube size to large base boomers.

 

A pre-DCC enabled loco will require a bit of modelling expertise to install the decoder and the speaker. Some drilling of holes and making of sound boxes may be required as the main thing is the speaker must be sealed in a closed box to make the sound as good as it can be.

 

If you are handy with a soldering iron and there is space then I advise installing a decoder socket which will make fitting/swapping the decoder easier in future.

 

There are plenty of guides on oo-toob and by way of a google search to sound decoder sites.

[70s kid]

 the 8249 will give you basic dcc control

a sound decoder will have to have the necessary sounds of a 125 hst "blown" onto the decoder

 

[70s kid]

 the 8249 will give you basic dcc control

a sound decoder will have to have the necessary sounds of a 125 hst "blown" onto the decoder

Thankyou so much. It probably seemed a daft question but you've confirmed what I though but wasn't brave enough to proceed without checking. Thanks again 

 

[70s kid]

One final if I may. I have about 4 power tracks from analog second-hand sets But I see a "digital" power track available. I saw a discussion about the digital one bring the same as analog except for a capacitor removed. I have a power clip also that slips directly under the tracks which I assume (??) will be ok for connecting my DCC controller without need for a power track at all? I think I can just solder directly onto the track instead of power track or power clip both? 

thanks for your advice 

Gerry 

[Augustus Caesar]

You don't need to use power clips at all. You can solder the wires to the track but soldering from the underside will be better as you can hide them. Power from the Elite will make the track digital in format and so you must not mix analogue with it... I am sure you know that already.

 

Rather than do sound straight away why not just get used to soldering a decoder to that loco (I have one here I am about to convert) and making sure you have it correctly wired THEN add sound later? You would simply replace that decoder for a sound one. But making a mistake and blowing the sound one would be an expensive error. Begin with the basics... is your soldering iron a low wattage iron? Say 12 watts? You don't need much more than that to blow a chip.

[70s kid]

You don't need to use power clips at all. You can solder the wires to the track but soldering from the underside will be better as you can hide them. Power from the Elite will make the track digital in format and so you must not mix analogue with it... I am sure you know that already.

 

Rather than do sound straight away why not just get used to soldering a decoder to that loco (I have one here I am about to convert) and making sure you have it correctly wired THEN add sound later? You would simply replace that decoder for a sound one. But making a mistake and blowing the sound one would be an expensive error. Begin with the basics... is your soldering iron a low wattage iron? Say 12 watts? You don't need much more than that to blow a chip.

That's great advice, I have downloaded the steps of adding a decoder to a non DDC and will try a standard one first. Ironically, again in acknowledgement of my dad & all he did for me I was planning on using his soldering iron but I'll have to check its power rating as I didn't realise that might harm the decoder.

Many thanks

Gerry

 

[70s kid]

 the 8249 will give you basic dcc control

a sound decoder will have to have the necessary sounds of a 125 hst "blown" onto the decoder

 

Thanks so much - I've ordered an 8249 now this evening & please God that'll work out for me as long as I follow the steps & solder the right connections.

Many thanks

Gerry

 

[70s kid]

@70's

You have to fit a speaker to get sound out of a sound decoder. These are many and various in type from sugar cube size to large base boomers.

 

A pre-DCC enabled loco will require a bit of modelling expertise to install the decoder and the speaker. Some drilling of holes and making of sound boxes may be required as the main thing is the speaker must be sealed in a closed box to make the sound as good as it can be.

 

If you are handy with a soldering iron and there is space then I advise installing a decoder socket which will make fitting/swapping the decoder easier in future.

 

There are plenty of guides on oo-toob and by way of a google search to sound decoder sites.

Thanks for that - I think I'll stick to converting my analog DC locos to DCC via ordinary decoder & will buy a new sound (TTS) enabled loco as I reckon with more than one loco going at the same time, maybe the various sounds might clash with each other & produce 'noise' rathet than the intended 'sound'.

Thanks again

Gerry

 

[Fishmanoz]

Hi 70s kid, can I suggest for a start that you stop using the Quote button to reply and start using the big green Reply box at the bottom.  All you are doing is unnecessarily repeating our replies, then you are confusing things by adding your content in the yellow box rather than the white area below it, making it hard to see what you have added, if anything.

 

One of your questions has yet to have a reply: both DC power tracks and power clips contain that offending capacitor which will stop DCC working properly.  Again in both cases, it can be found and removed by flipping open the black cover and clipping it off at the legs.  No need at all to buy DCC versions.  Direct soldering of wires to the track is better but not necessary for a start.  Don't forget to install DCC Point Clips to all of your points too.

[70s kid]

Hi, I apologise for using the wrong method of replying. I only joined the forum yesterday and tried using the green reply button on my first response but it didn't work on my iPhone so I tried again with the quote button even though it seemed as you say to copy the whole section & I ended up having to add at the bottom. Sorry. I hope this will work better now from my laptop. 

Thanks for the advice on capacitors - I didn't know the power clip had one so I think I'll go with direct solder to the track now for sure. Does it matter which cable goes to which track as long as all other connections from the bus cable are done the same? 

Many thanks and apologies again 

Gerry 

[70s kid]

Thanks Magfan. I haven't received the decoder (8249?) yet so no idea if it's a 8-pin DCC socket or just a chip on a circuit board with wires to be soldered. Is the more expensive Sapphire decoder what you mean by an 8-pin Socket? I'm strating my catchup of all things digital so diodes are as yet beyond my level but I look forward to learning more as from memory there aren't any lights on the GNER but that may be because they may be on the loco but not working. Will take a closer look now. 

Many thanks 

Gerry 

[Howbi]

Gerry........if you click on Digital>decoders at the top of the page you will see the R8249 decoder with fitted 8 pin plug.  You have the option of either buying and soldering a socket with four wires to the pickups and motor or cutting off the plug from the decoder and then soldering the relevant 4 wires directly to motor & pickups.  The decoder instruction sheet details which colour wires go where. HB.

[70s kid]

Fantastic help guys - many MANY thanks indeed to all who took time to answer what must for many, seem very basic questions. I've a lot to learn and am using YouTube a lot more than ever before. 

Thanks again & apologies for the wrong reply button earlier. 

Gerry 

[Augustus Caesar]

@70s_kid

If your model has bulbs to light up the lenses at the front of this loco you can add surface mounted LEDs like those I fitted to my model from the 80's... A full guide is available on the link provided to my site page and the boards used are still available and have been upgraded by the maker.

http://www.octaviancs.com/hornby125/Fit4FDecandPCBtoHornby125.pdf

Hope this helps... even in the long term.

 

One final addition... if you are concerned about polarity on the rails and would be testing electricals later on too then may I suggest a purchase of a multimeter if you don't already have one. I find mine absolutely invaluable.