mal Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Hi Can anyone help please in how I hard wire an early Hornby Class 37 with a decoder. This model only has one wire going to one side of motor to none motor bogey and one wire going from motor bogey to motor. My deceased class 37 this replaces had the normal set up of wires to left and right of track etc. I cannot find any Jack and Jill description of how to do it but a nice you tube of one running when it has been done. thanks Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 @malIf I read you right you have one wire from each motor brush to each of both bogies. One should go to say left wheels front and the other to right wheels rear, or vice-versa, check with a meter.disconnect the wires at the motor and check there is no continuity from either terminal to the wheels.if tHere is no continuity then you can safely connect the motor to the decoder orange and grey wires and each bogie wire to decoder red and black.if there is continuity then you must work out how to isolate the motor terminals from the wheel pickups. Plenty of guides of line for doing that to ringfield motors.you should have lots of room in a 37 so you may decide to fit a decoder socket to make swapping decoders easier In future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mal Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Hi RAF Thanks very much for that. With my limited knowledge I suspected something like that may be the case. Pardon my limited knowledge but can you advise how I check continuity. I do have a meter but for the life of me I have a total blank on what to set it at etc. If at all possible if you explain to me in simply text I would really appreciate it. thanks again for your quick response. Unfortunately I did not find much on line but perhaps my search too narrow. Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Mal, if you could post a close up photo of your meter front panel, then we could ascertain as to whether it is a type capable of testing for continuity. It needs to have a resistance measuring capability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Here's a video of a similar loco being converted. It's a Class 43, but it should give you an idea of how to do it. With some Ringfield motors the metal screw has to be replaced with a nylon one as shown on Brian Lambert's page.http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC.html#The Here's a simple guide on setting up a multimeter to check continuity. :-)https://learn.adafruit.com/multimeters/overview Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mal Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 /media/tinymce_upload/11ba7634078b80e25216ab2411db5050.JPG Thanks Chrissaf and poliss Much appreciated I will have a look at vids and also attach photo of my multimeter. Never ever got to terms with one of these things Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mal Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Hi Thanks for you help and will view vids. Have tried twice to send a close up of multimeter but does not seem to get posted. Not sure if I doing that rght s I can only find update image. Peprhaps has to go via Admin Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 You're right. images have to be approved by the admins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Wow, a multimeter without auto range, amazing. Mine, which is now some 50 years old, has auto range. Put it it on an ohms range, top left quadrant and measure between left motor connection and wheels, trying both sides. If either shows zero, you need to isolate the connection as poliss has advised with nylon screw etc. if no zero, just proceed as also advised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 @malIt may seem to be stating the obvious but for continuity checking you need to plug the hidden ends of the probes in as follows - black to the common terminal and red to the centre one (V-ohms-mAmps). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mal Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 Hi All Thanks very much. The first you tube video cracked it all. As I was not getting a reading on the motor went ahead with chipping it and all went well. An excellent runner. thanks again Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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