Crossing issue

[Romeo]

hi gents, it's been a while since I have posted as I have been unable to work on the layout until this week, I install the crossing and frog juicer as per the great instruction from Chris, it works fine on one crossing line either way but stops when I run it on the other line, baffled as to what my next step is, when it stops it hasn't created a short circuit if I push it through it resumes when it touches the track on the opposing side 

[Chrissaf]

Romeo, Chris here. Sounds like an error in wiring your track droppers. Do you have a multimeter that can test for track continuity? You'll probably find you have inadvertently created a section of dead track on the crossing due to the required and necessary insulated joiners.

.

For other's reading this. I documented a custom modification of Peco track (not Hornby track) for Romeo to implement, so it is actually a non-standard installation. Thus it will be difficult for others reading to make a valid judgement call with regard to suggestions.

[Fishmanoz]

Surely it's a standard frog juicer setup Chris, as per the one you posted in a thread some time ago?

[Chrissaf]

The mod involved cutting rails and electrically bonding rails around the crossing frog area. It isn't a point crossing that Romeo is referring to. It is a diamond style crossing. I made my 'For other's reading this comment' for the benefit of contributors that have not got your memory, to stop them going off at tangents without knowing the full background to Romeo's revised issue.

.

I'm keeping an eye open for Romeo to come back here so that we can enter into meaningful dialogue.

[Romeo]

Hi Chris, thanks for getting back to me, I will be home from work after lunch so will post again then, will check to see if there is a dead portion but all seem ok last night, the other thing I noted was it says to remove ALL bridge pins on the juicer and I spotted one that is still fitted, took it that one came as standard

[Chrissaf]

Romeo,

 .

As a starting point I have posted two drawings below. The first one is just to confirm the correct PCB bridge link positions for correct operation. The second is to help us both to sing from the same hymn sheet to aid our dialogue to resolve your issue.

.

At this point, it might be worth considering that we ask Adam (Admin) to exchange private e-mails. Depending upon what is causing my proposed design not to work (which incidentally I have implemented four times without issue on my own layout, so I’m sure it will be something relatively simple to fix), there may be a requirement for some quite detailed dialogue exchanges between us that other’s here will find distracting. Plus of course, moderation delays if we need to exchange further diagrams and photos. Doing all this privately, may be the better option.

.

With regard to the second drawing. You say that ‘one direction’ (no I’m not a fan of them) works OK. Would this be the A,B or the C.D direction annotated on the drawing. Knowing this means that with the next stage of dialogue I can focus on the direction that is not working.

.

What test equipment do you have access to, do you have a multi-meter, can it measure AC voltage, can it measure resistance?

.

That’s all for now. Will look out for you reply later today.

.

/media/tinymce_upload/6b4abdaf2e491394d00f0b3b9ebce562.JPG

.

/media/tinymce_upload/cc92378a706ee2e7fac506c52a9315e6.JPG

[Chrissaf]

Romeo, have made a post containing images to aid our dialogue. Hopefully it will be posted before you get home from work. Chris

[Romeo]

Hi Chris, what a differece a picture makes, the plugs on the board were on one pin only so that ruled that out. I then realised I had a point directly connected to the Xover, hence the lower rail had an isulated joint which isolted the rail, I put a dropper on it and hey presto all works fine, thanks again for the pictures they made it easy to understand. 

Next challenge is a three way elctro frog turnout to the entrance to the station , fingers crossed it won't cause problems, 

have a great weekend

Many thank

Romeo

[Chrissaf]

Romeo, Phew that was a close call for me then........thought I might be faced with having to do a house call under Warranty, particularly as you had done the mod on my suggestion.

.

Really glad you have got it sorted. If I read your reply correctly, my drawings were not wasted as they triggered your thoughts to realise what the error was.

.

Looks like I was 'spot on' with my very first original assessment when I said it

.

"Sounds like an error in wiring your track droppers."

.

Keep well......

.

Chris

.

PS - Those Tam Valley FJ's are the bees knees and dogs dangly bits all rolled into one are they not......excellent product.

[Romeo]

Hi Chris, 

just come from under the boards, you are right the dogs do dars is agreat bit of kit, 

the pictures and drawings along with the words of wisdom really help, plain talk is so easy to understand as opposed to being baffled with acronyms and jargon a newbie never understands, so glad I found this forum, no doubt I will be requesting advice again, in the mean time many thank again. 

Romeo

[Romeo]

Hi Chris, forgot to ask yesterday, I have acquired a DC panier tank in fantastic condition, I will convert to DCC, I have read up on various chips, was wondering if there is a preference amongst the community, as there seems quite a lot of difference in manufacture

cheers for now

Romeo

[Chrissaf]

Sorry Romeo, not my field. All my locos are Loksound sound equipped and fitted either at the factory or at the retailer before shipping. Well within my capability to fit my own, but product 'best buy's' not something I've researched.

.

Hate to say it publically here, but if I was in the market to buy a DCC loco decoder I would probably avoid H.... and of course, should you want sound, then your choice is restricted.

.

The Hattons ones seem to get mentioned on here a lot, but for the life of me I can't remember it it was for positive or negative reasons. Hattons seem to be about the cheapest you can buy for a basic 4 function decoder.

.

Bit more pricey but I've only ever read good things about the Lenz brand and/or Zimo.

.

Other's here will advise, but to maximise your audience, might be better to post a new topic in the DCC section. I don't think this particular thread will get many more views.

.

I believe questions along the lines of "What decoder should I buy" have been asked here before. Might be worth a forum search before posting a new topic.

[Romeo]

Cheers Chris, more research required, I noticed that H don't like the discussion, I found a link to an earlier post 

[Chrissaf]

I see that Stewart166 has just asked the very same question hardly more than an hour ago and been given short shrift (the cold shoulder). Probably the post you referred to above.

[Fishmanoz]

Romeo, answer depends on how old you loco is. If modern with a can motor, then a basic R8249 or the basic Hattons will do everything you need.  They are both basic 4 function decoders and, in fact, you don't use any functions in a basic steam loco.  If an older loco with an open frame motor such as the X04, then you will need the Hattons as it has a higher current capability which is needed for the older motors.