Rolling stock on DCC - What to avoid

[garrettendi]

Hi, I'm planning on attending a Model Train fair this weekend with the intention of getting a few DCC locos and some rolling stock.

I've been told from a friend that I have to make sure the rolling stock has plastic axels. Is this something to really hold in mind or can I expect any OO rolling stock to work, as long as it isn't 3-rail system etc?

If there are things to avoid, what do I need to look for and what happens in the event of incompatible rolling stock on my DCC line?

Thanks

[Chrissaf]

All axles will provide electrical isolation between the left and right wheel. Else you would get a short circuit across the track, even in the days of original analogue DC systems. To achieve this wheel to wheel isolation, the axle may be plastic. It may be metal with a plastic bush in the centre of a metal wheel.

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Quite often, the kind of old rolling stock products you find at a 'fair' will not only have plastic axles, but will have plastic wheels as well. Personal choice comment here, but I much prefer metal wheels, with or without plastic axles.

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Also to note. Old rolling stock, what I call the 'toy' products. Tend to have quite deep flanges on the wheels. This can sometimes cause running issues on modern track, particularly if of the low profile variety. Not a big issue as in most cases the old wheels and axles can be replaced with modern wheel stock.

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With regard to rolling stock compatibility with DCC (ignoring the loco obviously) passive rolling stock is completely oblivious as to whether the control system is DC or DCC.

[garrettendi]

Thanks for your reply!

 

So basically if I understand you correctly, I don't need to concern myself really with potential issues, but should keep an eye out for deep flanges?

[2e0dtoeric]

As Chrissaf put - ALL modern rolling stock will work on any kind of railway, dc or dcc (even live steam!)

Just watch out for the early TRIANG stuff, it is 'toy' level, and has the old-style wheels with bigger flanges. It works ok on the track, but when it gets to points, etc, the flanges hit bottom, and the wheels rise off the track and can cause derailments.

Watch out that you don't mix OO and HO models, too, the wheel widths are the same, but the bodies of HO are slightly smaller than OO and they look silly coupled together, even if the coupling methods match.

Metal wheels with pin-point axle ends are better than the old plastic ones, they run more freely, and the metal does not collect dust and grime, and leave it on the track, which plastic wheels will do!

Dirty rails, wheels, and pick-ups are the main cause of heartache when things suddenly don't work, when they did before!

[Chrissaf]

That's about it Garrett. Go with your instinct, and purchase the models you like the look of at a price you think is fair. Locos, on the other hand, could be a 'can of worms' as it is doubtful that you will be able to see them running prior to purchase. Remember also, that locos that are not DCC ready, that is to say, they do not have an internal socket to accept a DCC decoder, need a bit more skill to convert. The older the loco, the more skill required as some old locos used the metal loco chassis as a power return path and this needs isolation for DCC working.

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It is also true, that DCC will NOT cure a loco that is a 'poor runner' on DC. Any loco that has DC running issues needs those issues resolved first, before conversion.

[walkingthedog]

' Else you would get a short circuit across the track, even in the days of original analogue DC systems.'

 

You cheeky thing Chris. Even in the days. That's fighting talk. 

[Chrissaf]

I can see that you and I WTD have a similar wit, your comments always tickle my funny bone. The "They're under starters orders......" was a classic. Really funny.

[garrettendi]

That's about it Garrett. Go with your instinct, and purchase the models you like the look of at a price you think is fair. Locos, on the other hand, could be a 'can of worms' as it is doubtful that you will be able to see them running prior to purchase. Remember also, that locos that are not DCC ready, that is to say, they do not have an internal socket to accept a DCC decoder, need a bit more skill to convert. The older the loco, the more skill required as some old locos used the metal loco chassis as a power return path and this needs isolation for DCC working.

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It is also true, that DCC will NOT cure a loco that is a 'poor runner' on DC. Any loco that has DC running issues needs those issues resolved first, before conversion.

It's interesting you mention that, as last train fair I went to they had a DCC modded Smokey Joe which I almost bought but didn't have enough cash on me. Do you have any words of wisdom on that? I've always wanted a Smokey Joe but is that kind of thing something to avoid?

[garrettendi]

Thanks for the advice, 2e0dtoeric!

[Chrissaf]

I've always wanted a Smokey Joe but is that kind of thing something to avoid?

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Not my field of knowledge.....sorry Garrett. I prefer modelling real life.....I avoid what I would call 'the novelty market' - Smokey Joe, Thomas etc.....no offence intended with my comment, just responding with a direct answer to a direct question.

[RDS]

 I've always wanted a Smokey Joe but is that kind of thing something to avoid?

 

No need to avoid a Smokey Joe if you want one.  I have very successfully converted one to DCC and it runs very well.

As has been said above, it is important to keep wheels and track clean.

 

[garrettendi]

Thanks both of you for your honest advice. Chrissaf I totally understand your comment, I too prefer to model real life locos, but I make an exception for the Smokey Joe, after falling in love with it in the Virtual Railway software!

 

So it sounds like the DCC modded Smokey Joe could be a safe bet then, thanks RDS. I cannot mod it myself, but if its the right price, it could be worth a risk at the swap meet,.

 

Thanks again everyone

[ModelerXYZ]

If the loco is DCC you can use it. if its DC, you need to convert it, but thats not too difficult. 4 wires and somewhere to put the chip. As for rolling stock, If it has round wheels, is in the right scale, and has the same couplings as the others, it'll work. 

XYZ

[96RAF]

 @Gar

Any 0-4-0 type loco can be a problem over points due to short wheelbase and minimal pickups, normally playing up over dead frog points - those with big plastic frogs.

Apart from converting to live frog points and/or fitting stay-alive circuits to any of these little (DCC) locos, stalling is something you may have to live with or not - it depends upon the track and loco combo on your layout.

I have one point on my layout that the 0-4-0s cross no bother, but Mallard derails everytime but only in reverse.

[Rog RJ]

 

I have one point on my layout that the 0-4-0s cross no bother, but Mallard derails everytime but only in reverse.

 

I had the same problem with my mallard.  Eventually solved it by adjusting the angle of the cab doors that were catching on the tender in reverse and by raising the fall plate slightly.