Pitchford hall remove body? How?

[agander]

Hi

Just bought this loco and need to install decoder.  Con't find any instructions on how to remove the body on this type.

Anyone help, please?  Thanks

agander

[Howbi]

Hi agander.........If you move the front bogie to one side you may find the head of a screw behind the front buffer beam which, when removed, will allow the front of the loco to be lifted up and then slid back to release from rear tags..........possibly.   HB.

[agander]

Hi agander.........If you move the front bogie to one side you may find the head of a screw behind the front buffer beam which, when removed,

Just moving the bogie didn't appear to reveal any screws, so I finished up removing it.  When I refit I'll have another look in case I missed something.

will allow the front of the loco to be lifted up and then slid back to release from rear tags..........possibly.   HB.

I removed two screws near the front, but with no sign of any movement.  Hower, strengthened by your advice I tried again and was successful, so many thanks.  Next, I need to find the blanking plate - possibly hidden under black tape.

Another associated question, if I may?  I thought I'd need to detach the tender, and, physically, did so.  But there is a bunch of interconnecting wires leading to a flush, white plug under the tender.  I didn't want to just pull the wires.  Might I just have to prise the plug out?  Possibly, I don't need to do the tender, but it makes handling a bit easier and I don't want to break those wires.

agander

 

 

[Howbi]

@agander............if there are wires attached to the Tender that would indicate that the decoder socket is in there so you will have to undo the screws in the tender chassis to release the body and hopefully you will find the decoder socket but I certainly would not attempt to pull out that tiny white plug, easily damaged.  HB.

[96RAF]

If you can give us the R number then we can find you a service sheet and all will become clear as to how it comes to bits.

[agander]

@agander............if there are wires attached to the Tender that would indicate that the decoder socket is in there

Just in time!  I would never have thought of that, especially having seen a likely shape attached to the motor.

you will have to undo the screws in the tender chassis to release the body and hopefully you will find the decoder socket.

Right, have done that and installed the decoder.

but I certainly would not attempt to pull out that tiny white plug, easily damaged.  HB.

No, no need to do that now, anyway.

Now for a little test.

Thanks again

agander

 

[agander]

If you can give us the R number then we can find you a service sheet and all will become clear as to how it comes to bits.

Ah, that will be useful.  Snag is, I haven't found one yet.  It's Pitchford Hall, part of R3220 - Tyseley Connection, if that helps.

agander

[Howbi]

@agander..........Hornby normally include a service/instruction sheet in the box which shows how to remove bodies, did you not get one?...........anyway, hope it runs well and run it in for 20mins in each direction first if you can.  HB.

[96RAF]

Hss404 may help...

 

[agander]

@agander..........Hornby normally include a service/instruction sheet in the box which shows how to remove bodies, did you not get one?...........anyway, hope it runs well and run it in for 20mins in each direction first if you can.  HB.

Wonder how I missed that!!  I saw a leaflet about the Tyseley Collection and put it/ them to one side for later.  That's where the instructions got to.  Oh dear.  At least it shows that I did have to remove the bogie, although not necessarily some other screws I removed.

Anyway, all is looking good, at least it runs smoothly on just a tiny length of track.  Now all I have to do is to reassemble it and test more thoroughly.

Thanks for sticking with me.  I appreciate it.

agander

[agander]

Hss404 may help...

I've just done a quick google, but nothing useful turned up as yet.

However, thanks to HB, this is now resolved.

Thanks

agander

 

[Chrissaf]

Agander, HSS404 stands for Hornby Service Sheet #404 it can be found on this Hornby web site, click here.

.

For future reference, if you look under the 'Help & Advice' drop down menu in the red navigation strip at top of this page, you will find a link to 'Service Sheets'.

.

PS - There is a special Hornby tool for removing the white loco tender wiring plug its part number is X6468

[agander]

Agander, HSS404 stands for Hornby Service Sheet #404 it can be found on this Hornby web site, click here.

.

For future reference, if you look under the 'Help & Advice' drop down menu in the red navigation strip at top of this page, you will find a link to 'Service Sheets'.

.

PS - There is a special Hornby tool for removing the white loco tender wiring plug its part number is X6468

 

[agander]

Agander, HSS404 stands for Hornby Service Sheet #404 it can be found on this Hornby web site, click here.

.

For future reference, if you look under the 'Help & Advice' drop down menu in the red navigation strip at top of this page, you will find a link to 'Service Sheets'.

.

PS - There is a special Hornby tool for removing the white loco tender wiring plug its part number is X6468

I did a reply earlier but it didn't get here.

 

Thanks for the tip, and yes, I saw that tool mentioned in the Maintenance instructions.

agander

[2e0dtoeric]

Agander - please do not use the blue QUOTE button to reply. Scroll down a bit, type in the empty white box, and use the green REPLY button!

That way your words don't get lost, and the previous post isn't endlessly repeated down the pages!  :-)

 

[agander]

Agander, HSS404 stands for Hornby Service Sheet #404 it can be found on this Hornby web site, click here.

.

For future reference, if you look under the 'Help & Advice' drop down menu in the red navigation strip at top of this page, you will find a link to 'Service Sheets'.

.

PS - There is a special Hornby tool for removing the white loco tender wiring plug its part number is X6468

Twice now, I've posted a response but they've gone walkabout.  Thanks for that tip, and I did see that tool mentioned in the Maintenance instruction.

 

agander

[agander]

Agander, HSS404 stands for Hornby Service Sheet #404 it can be found on this Hornby web site, click here.

.

For future reference, if you look under the 'Help & Advice' drop down menu in the red navigation strip at top of this page, you will find a link to 'Service Sheets'.

.

PS - There is a special Hornby tool for removing the white loco tender wiring plug its part number is X6468

 

Twice now, I've posted a response but they've gone walkabout.  Thanks for that tip, and I did see that tool mentioned in the Maintenance instruction.

 

agander

 

[agander]

> Agander - please do not use the blue QUOTE button to reply. Scroll down a bit, type in the empty > white box, and use the green REPLY button!

> That way your words don't get lost, and the previous post isn't endlessly repeated down the pages!  :-)

 > 

OK about use of blue Quote button, but there are intervening posts here.  How do I mention the post to which I'm replying?  I've just done copy/paste for now.  What about the (") block quote button?

agander

 

[2e0dtoeric]

If several posts have intervened, just copy/paste the relevent words, so people know what you are referring to! There is no need for verbatum transplants!  :-)

[Chrissaf]

Agander, the regular contributors on here are more observant than you give them credit for. Most of us will see what reply someone is replying to just by reading it. That is unless the post being replied to is on a previous page. And even then it would probably need to be more than one page back before being missed.

.

You mentioned the (") block quote button. This is definitely an appropriate acceptable alternative to the 'Blue Quote' button. A recap for using the (") block quote. Cut and paste the relevant bit of text that you want to highlight from the earlier reply into your new post. Add a couple of carriage returns so that there is a clear paragraph gap between the text to be quoted and the new text to be added. I give an example below:

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Example (") block text quote

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Highlight the text to be quoted then click the (") block text button in the main reply text window and the highlighted text will appear in a yellow box as demonstrated above.

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PS - You have probably noticed by now that the replies you thought were lost, were not. As you have duplicated your reply several times. Everytime you click the green save button, the post does get posted 90% of the time. Scroll up to the top of the page and you will normally see a message on screen saying that the "post has been saved successfully". If you can't see your new reply, just reload the page and invariably it will appear.

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It is the combination of multiple duplicate replies coupled with yellow quote box duplications that give some of the regular contributors the hump. This is not a criticism of you, nearly all newbie posters do the same posting errors. The error lies in the forum software not being user friendly that is the core of the problem.

[agander]

Thank you for comments.

I'm not a "newbie poster", except on this forum, and I must say it's given me more trouble than most.

Hopefully, I'll do better.

agander