Lon2020 Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Hi 1st set coming for xmas. What is the best base material to use starting off and do I need the underlay for the track Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Hi Lon2020, welcome to the forum The heading is somewhat misleading because your question is about a train set in general, so the answers you get should apply to both DCC and DC layouts. The best baseboard material is Sundela board or dense fibreboard, because this accepts track pins easily and helps to reduce noise. However you will need to make a timber frame to support it and to protect the edges. A timber frame is always a good idea because all sheet materials will need some support to prevent it warping. Plywood is also good, about 12mm is about right, but you need a bit more of a whack to get the track pins to go in. Avoid sheet material like hardboard because these are almost impossible to drive pins in, and they vibrate like a guitar sound board. Underlay is a matter of personal preference, the ready made moulded foam is not bad, but can make track laying a bit fiddly. Some people use cork, either bought in rolls or cut from cork tiles and then glue 'ballast' between the sleepers with PVA glue. This can be messy, and can make any subsequent track alterations much harder. Search the Forum for discussions about this. Look at the 'Getting started with Track extension packs' advice at the top of the forum, and also some of the 'How to build a model railway ' advice in the Help and advice section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDS Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Welcome to the forum Lon2020. I agree with LC&DR. I myself have Sundeala board glued to 18mm thick plywood and all supported on a strong wooden framework. I chose Sundeala because of its noise reduction properties but also because track pins can be inserted easily, usually by just pushing them in. I have also found it easy to remove them when a change is required. Let us know how you get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37lover Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Sundeala is probably the best but unfortunately it's quite expensive, I used a similar fibreboard that was much cheaper, bought from a local Builder's Merchants. I glued this onto 12mm MDF. There are lots of products and combinations but whatever you use make sure the framing is appropriate. By that I mean if you use thinner/weaker materials on top then the spacing of the framing should be reduced. There have been quite a few previous threads on baseboard structures, have you tried the search facility, as well as the sections mentioned by LC&DR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lon2020 Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 Thank ye very much for this info. Really appreciate it. Looking forward to getting started after Xmas day :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 If you choose to use chipboard as a base, it still needs a supporting frame, and as said, is quite hard to drive pins into - but the easy way is to drill a 1mm hole for each pin, then they push in easily, and won't creep, but can be extracted again if you change your mind!There's a proper tool for pushing pins in, too - oddly enough called a 'pin-pusher'! Make sure you get the right diameter 'nozzle' for the pins you have! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1707820979 Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Hi Lon. I am also new to the hobby (after a gap of umpteen years !) so still learning too. Sometimes the hard way.I am very glad I used Sundeala, glued onto a Trak-Mat and with a wooden supporting frame. I makes removing track pins very easy and is a nice material. About underlay, I was tempted to use cork but my local shop advised me not to have any underlay in the interests of being able to alter the track layout more easily. But as pointed out by LC it is a matter of personal choice.One thing I found, having wired up some trackside buildings for LED lights is that my wiring is now a bit of a nightmare because I did not make a wiring diagram to help me remember which is which. So a bit of crawling around underneath if any light should go out. So I would advise you not to follow in my lazy footsteps. Merry Christmas ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lon2020 Posted December 25, 2015 Author Share Posted December 25, 2015 Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverLady Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 Re baseboards - do people follow the seemingly standard recommendation of building in sections of 4' x 2' (I'm an imperial woman!) and having them bolted together? In addition, should the Sundeala itself be mounted on a base i.e. plywood and then framed or can the Sundeala be attached directly to a softwood frame? Please tell me if I'm posting this in the wrong place.Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynax Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 personally i would not touch sundeala, plywood every time for me, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1707820979 Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 Hello SilverLady. Yes, Sundeala can indeed be used with a supporting softwood frame, as long as the spacing of the frame is at 10-12 inch intervals. This was recommended in several articles I have read. Of course the frame should be level and not bendy. Hope this helps you. My own layout is constructed like this and has been very satisfactory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverLady Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Thank you Mike and JG. Differing advice re Sundeala - one each so far! Maybe I'll wait until I can see the two types of surface - can't do that until next week as the supplier in Kendal has been under six feet of water! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Can't do that until next week as the supplier in Kendal has been under six feet of water!.They might be a tad soggy & warped then.........Apologies to ALL who might have been affected by flooding for my joke.......I just couldn't resist it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertnash92 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Hi Lon2020Great to hear your new to the hobby and starting out with DCC!If you need any advice on building your model railway, I have found this excellent beginner's model railway blog which may help:http://www.buildamodelrailway.co.uk/I wish you all the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 And agsin, for the definitive word on all matters model railway, goggle Brian Lambert's excellent site. PS. I think that's 2 spotter's fees for me today Flashbang. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDS Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 ... Yes, Sundeala can indeed be used with a supporting softwood frame, as long as the spacing of the frame is at 10-12 inch intervals ...Although I thoroughly recommend Sundeala, I do not believe it stays flat enough to not be fully supported, hence my reason for having bonded mine to 18mm plywood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverLady Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Although I thoroughly recommend Sundeala, I do not believe it stays flat enough to not be fully supported, hence my reason for having bonded mine to 18mm plywood.Thank you RDS. Perhaps, for this reason, it seems a good idea to build in 2' x 4' sections and have them bolted together as suggested in the 2016 Handbook. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lon2020 Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Got the western master going with the rail master software and a few hiccups with software settings etc. Train looks great. Getting a base tomorrow and the kick off will start on modelling etc. I was like a child watching that train go. The things that keep us happy :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Thank you Mike and JG. Differing advice re Sundeala - one each so far! Maybe I'll wait until I can see the two types of surface - can't do that until next week as the supplier in Kendal has been under six feet of water! In the instructions that come with Sundeala about its preparation, it does say one side should be drenched with water and allowed to dry. It looks as though your supplier will offer it "fully prepared"! Seriously, I used 9mm ply, but did build two test boards 4'x2' with Sundeala topping, they had a 3"x1" frame with 12" centres - they lived in my garage for eighteen months (cold and damp - hot and humid), they did not sag at all. I notice in 2016 Handbook, that Hornby still recommend Sundeala. When using ply, with a cork underlay, and then ballasted using the "usual" formula - the noise from a running train is louder than you might expect. A sound loco does drown out the normal running noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverLady Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Thank you bulleidboy!Still raining here in Cumbria - maybe some time yet before I can get to Kendal for bits and pieces! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverLady Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Thank you bulleidboy!Still raining here in Cumbria - maybe some time yet before I can get to Kendal for bits and pieces! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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