Fozzy Bear Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Hello folks. I have read that with a Select or Elite, you can get a straight DC output with address 00. Can the same be done with an elink?Bryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 The so called dc output from the Select and Elite (and most other DCC controllers) is NOT straight dc. It's "simulated" dc created by shifting of the DCC signal to create an offset voltage and is best not used for running any locos as the motors are likely to overheat and burn out. AFAIK the elink does not support this option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fozzy Bear Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Thanks Rog. I guess I will just have to look for an analogue controller somewhere (shouldn't be too hard) . I have some engines that I haven't converted to DCC yet and just wanted to give them a run. Thank you for your help Bryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I can confirm eLink definitely doesn't have an address 00 DC loco function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Want to know more about "Zero Bit Stretching" (DCC Address Zero) and why you shouldn't use it. Check out Mark Gurries page on the subject here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb1961 Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 This is the second forum in as many days that someone is asking about running DC locos on DCC controllers ,why would you want to do that ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony_forward Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 This is the second forum in as many days that someone is asking about running DC locos on DCC controllers ,why would you want to do that ?So that if you have a large number of loco's to convert you can still run locos? 30 chips cost around 450 quid! Not cheap.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelrow Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Easiest solution, run both layouts. I do, 6 running loops on DCC, 9, on DC, including 3 x 3 rail. That way, no reason not to run/ test as many as you like. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choralc Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 t_f if you put it in perspective that 450 is four to six new locos do I buy four to six or get my fleet of 30 locos hardwired? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fozzy Bear Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 This is the second forum in as many days that someone is asking about running DC locos on DCC controllers ,why would you want to do that ?Becauser I don't have a DC controller and I want to test run engines before conversion, as I stated in my reply to Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb1961 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 This is the second forum in as many days that someone is asking about running DC locos on DCC controllers ,why would you want to do that ?Becauser I don't have a DC controller and I want to test run engines before conversion, as I stated in my reply to RogOn eBay ,ex train set brand new Hornby controller £15.99 inc post or an older one for around a tenner ,I use a gauge master combi and a Hornby rolling road to test ,,,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fozzy Bear Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Thanks mj, they are fairly plentiful, though I just remembered that there is a lab grade DC power supply at work that I could borrow so might slip down tomorrow and hook it up after disconnecting all the DCC stuff. I have looked at the rolling roads but they seem a bit pricey over here. I have a heap of spare track so might even make up a loop on the lounge room floor and annoy my cat which is always fun to watch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flashbang Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 HiFor testing a DC loco with only a DCC supply, you can make up your loop of track or use a rolling road, but feed the rails / rollers from the output of a loco decoders using the Grey and Orange wires. Connect the decoders Red and Black wires to the DCC Track output of the DCC system. Then run the loco on nominally address 3 which the decoder will be set to if its new. You can run one loco at a time with the Hornby R8249 basic decoder or if you obtained a 1.0Amp output loco decoder and then it may be possible to run two locos on the same track together but not separately controlled. You can even fit the decoder inside a small plastic (Project) box and fit four fly leads to the decoders wires so as it's solely used for DC loco testing and the decoder is safe inside the box and the leads connect to the DCC system and rails / rollers as needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 If you intend trying a 12v dc controller on your existing DCC set-up, it might be advisable to either remove all the DCC loco's from the track for the duration, or make sure repeat make sure they are parked in an isolated siding!That way you won't get any escaped rockets when a DCC chip gets confused, and sees a dc voltage as an instruction to go flat-out!It is safer to have a simple circle just for dc, that has NO connection at all to the DCC layout! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 The simple answer to testing a DC loco is to wire up a 3v, 4.5v and 6v battery to run at various speeds connected to a bit of test track circle, simples! HB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choralc Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 F B what a wonderful idea.I might even try that. No need for a separate DC Controller anymore. I suppose I can use RM with a Rolling Road running-in program with this DCC decoder in a box idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flashbang Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 F B what a wonderful idea.I might even try that. No need for a separate DC Controller anymore. I suppose I can use RM with a Rolling Road running-in program with this DCC decoder in a box idea?HiYes of course. A loop of track or a rolling road they do a similar job when running in DC locos.How they are powered - direct from the DCC for DCC Fitted items or from a decoders output for DC locos, its up to you. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choralc Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Brilliant. Definitely try that with a decoder that decided to shed its wires. Like the sig, as well. Trouble is I did touch it and now I feel remorseful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fozzy Bear Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Well, I set up a 4m x 2m rectangle in the lounge room, connected the DC supply from work and started experimenting. I can see why some people prefer DC over DCC, very smooth running and slow speed control, though I suspect that this has a lot to do with the power supply. I tested a Mehano Thalys, an old Lima TGV (supposedly from 1985) ,1st gen Hornby Eurostar, a little Hornby shunter called the Blue Diamond and a 30yo Class 43 HST. All ran well.Where it got interesting is with the 43. I have 2 others converted to DCC and on my layout, they can pull 2 or 3 coaches and the dummy cars but thats about all. On the DC loop, I thought "lets see what she can pull". It ended up pulling 24 coaches at one time , the limiting factor being the 3rd radius corners (the coaches started being pulled off the track sideways) The current draw was 0.49AThe little shunter flies. It was a bit odd seeing this tiny little thing running down and catching a TGV.The cat took one look and fled and hasn't been seen since.I have started building a new layout with 3 loops around the room, absolute minimum corners and points (basically a race track) and thought "maybe a bit dull" but now convinced it is the way to go (for me). The 2nd gen Eurostar will finally get to stretch its exceptionally long legs.Bryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Not to try to change your mind Fozzy, seems like you've found the solution for your circumstances, but just to note, low speed running is a generally recognised advantage of DCC. That is because DCC always applies full track volts to the motor and so gets it turning more efficiently. It's just that it applies it in long bursts for fast and short bursts for slow. It's the average value of those bursts which determine speed. Interesting about the number of carriages pulled though, particularly given the current drawn is within the capability of the most basic DCC decoders. Does anyone understand why that is so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fozzy Bear Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Like most things I do, this DC loop was just an idea for something to do and expanded exponentially.I will be sticking to the DCC. I also realised that this a pefect time to run in my new Silver A4s where I can watch them and there is no chance of derailment. I read some posts about it and even though some say "if the instructions don't ask for it, it is not needed" , after 1/2 hour at medium speed in each direction, the first one is definitely quieter , though it was hardly what you would call noisy, out of the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choralc Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Have finally gotten around to Flashbang's advice of fitting a decoder into a breakout (?) box. I bought a coupleof X9084s (PCB Socket and Pins) and made a test fitting after soldering 4 wires on - orange, red, black, brown (thought I'd run out of grey). Pushed in the 'pins' and connected it up to a DC controller and rolling road. Tested it on a DCC ready loco./media/tinymce_upload/e7b78999764fbc0320e3349eba9c0f83.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choralc Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Then I put in a Lenz standard Plus and connected up the Elite./media/tinymce_upload/49e827f8de0d65fe2f0565425d4c6f9c.jpg Brilliant. Thanks Flashbang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 post erased.....out of date comment. HB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 If you fit a decoder to a loco before testing it on DC and it doesn't run very well, then you won't know if the problem is with the loco or the decoder. That's the reason for testing on DC first. To see if the loco has any problems, either mechanical or electrical.If you use a decoder connected to the track to test DC locos and the loco doesn't run very well, then you won't have any idea of whether it's the loco or the decoder that's at fault. That's why it's best to use a DC controller to test them first. Preferably a controller without feedback or PWM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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