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Drop in Bridge


Yelrow

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Hi, have made a drop in bridge to allow dc trains to move between layout, and helix, then , round the room. The location, means it must be drop in. My question concerns join ing track. I have fixed a section of flexi that matches up, but cannot use joiners. Where it meets layout, i can cut at required angle, and same, helix end, but is there a tried and tested way of assuring connections. john

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John,

There are several; have you looked on the Brian Lambert site under Tips. He has a hinged section but a drop-in essentially isn't much different. The important bit is to ensure good alignment and that's were dowels come in. I've got a hinged section and I have a plug/socket at the free end for maintaining the 'bus'. You could have something similar to provide power connections to/from your drop in piece.

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 There are many ways of making it work and ensuring the track is aligned. One method of keepin the raols in line is to replace the sleepers on each side of the gap with copper clad paxolin screwed to the baseboard and solder the rails to it. the copper needs to be gapped between the rails of course.

 

I find it is a good idea to have the lift out section resting on a supporting batten attached to either side of the gap so you can can adjust the fixing with both hands free. The batten needs to support the lift out section with its top flush with the top of the baseboard so it is a good idea to take extra care to get this right. It alkso must be strong enough to carry the weight and not collapse if you accidentally lean on it!

 

To ensure the board lines up  I have used 4 small brass bolts used to secure bathroom doors on the gap at both ends, but another method I have used is backflap hinges with the pin driven out and replaced with bent 2 inch wire nails. These are screwed to the boards one flap on the lauout the other on the board, with the nails inserted while the board is rested in the desired position. You take the nails out to remove the board. A lot depends on how the board goes in.

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@john

If you use brass pattern makers dowels vertically (instead of the normal way they are used to ensure horizontal alignment) for your drop in bridge, with a little ingenuity you could use the dowels to pass the current by wiring them to your track.

Used vertically you need to ensure verticall alignment is correct by shimming the dowels if necessary.

If necessary slide bolts can be used as a belt and braces lock down to further prevent bridge movement and/or pass current.

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When my baseboard sat at 800mm, I had a drop in bridge. The track overhung at both ends, making it easy to join the fishplates.

Nowadays, I've gone for a higher-off-the-ground baseboard sat at 1200mm, making it easy to duck under. This also brings the trains closer to your eyes. I've also got a biscuit tin for her to stand on when she makes a visit.

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