Is there a maximum track length?

[pavlos]

i was just wondering if there is a maximum track length before the electricity cannot make its way around the circuit? and can anything be done about it?

[Andy P.]

Hi There,

Opinions vary hugely on this. Many say anything over 10 meters (about 33 feet) may (!) need extra wire taps.

I personally have run around 12 to 14 meters with no problems with drop outs.

A couple of important points though:

1. Fewer joints: The weakest point is the joint between the tracks. The fewer the joints, the better the connection. Scalextric has come out with a 90° R2 curve which I love as it reducses the number of joints.

2. Better joints: Scalextric SPORT track track has a little pin inserted in the "male" side of the track. This pin can come loose causing a poor connection. Here is avideo demonstrating this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWIquWfWIbk

If you have Scalextric Classic or SCX analog track the "male" part is a small thin finger of metal that is folded over the end. This you can bend up a little to make better contact with rail above.

3. Clean track: It is amazing what a little dust can do to cause a track to not work. Use an old toothbrush do free up bits of dust, rubber and old braids and then a lint free cloth to get it all off. Avoid using water as this can cause rust.

Also make sure the "female" end of the track is clean. Sometimes when inserting the track bits of lint or carpet get stuck in there.

Also make sure the pins i.e. "male" side are clean.

You can get "rail cleaning blocks"  from stores when are a material similar to what is used for erasers on pencils. You can also use the same cleaning block that model railway users use to clean their rails. This blocks are great because they don't harm the plastic surface of the track. For very bad rust you can use sandpaper but be very very careful as it does scuff the track surface.

Some people treat the metal (!) rails with automatic transmission fluid with Dexrton (! must have Dextron because of the plastic). Others use other chemicals. This should keep rust at bay....I have tried safe-for-plastic oil as well but it did seem to collect more dust.

4. Use 2 power adapters/power bases: This has a number of advantages even if the track is not horribly long. 2 adapters mean that when one car leaves the track the other doesn't get a power surge. I also use plug in wall dimmers to "tune down" each lane indivudally. There is a Sclaextric Sport power base that actually allows you to use 2 adapters. There is a switch for one or two adapters (this one has it set to 1 adapter) http://www.homeracingworld.com/powerbase.jpg

Alternatively if you are savvy with electrics you can get 2 power bases and disconnect one lane. In addition to the advantages above this alos allows you to place the drivers at different points on the track which, if the track is large helps with marshalling i.e. putting deslotted cars back on the track.

5. Copper tape: This is a lot of work to be honest but I have tried it and it does work. I had bought a Goodwood Chicane and the cars were stuttering on it. I bought 5 mm wide copper tape with conductive adhesive and after thouroughly cleaning and drying the track I applied the tape on the rails of some Scalextric Classic track. Scalextric Classic track is "levered" into position and not "pushed" or "slid" so the copper tape does not budge up. The tape can be folded nicely over the end pin and I also folded about 2-3 mm into the "female" side so that there was almost always a "copper-to-copper" connection. The chicane works great but curved sections are a lot of work and I am not sure how well it will hold up in the long run.

6. "Booster Cables" Scalextric sells official booster cables. If you lookon the bottom of the track you will see small tabs that you can pry down a little and stick the cables on. These are stndard sizes so if you can't find the Scalextric cables taking a bit of track to your local electronics shop or hardware store might be all you need to do. I personally have never done this but I have seen descirptions and it is fairly straightforward (in theory). You connect the left rail of lane 1 at the power base to the left rail of lane 1 as far as you can get and right rail of lane 1 to right rail of lane 1 as far as you can get etc. The problem is keeping track of the lanes. :-) There is a risk of damaging the power so be careful. A voltmeter or ohmmeter can be handy as it will let you know if you are on the same lane.

I hope that helps and let us know how you get on!

 

[Andy P.]

stumbled upon this: http://www.electricdreams.com/Slot-Car-Collecting-and-Racing-News/slot-car-tech-news/track-power-basics/

[Blagard]

i was just wondering if there is a maximum track length before the electricity cannot make its way around the circuit? and can anything be done about it?

To answer the question, Yes there is a maximum track length and it will vary according to the quality of the individual track to track connections.

 

When you use long wires you get a voltage drop due to the resistance in the conductors. It is exactly the same on a long track.

 

Yes it can be overcome easily in most setups, as you just need the booster leads that shorten the distance the power has to go to the furthest part of the track. You can use as many as you want, but just need to think about the distances you are trying to shortcut.

 

The problem become much more difficult in a huge layout where even booster leads cannot get to the further reaches of the track. Lets say for a layout in a sports hall! In these extreme cases the distance from the power source cannot be shortcut using normal booster leads. In that situation it may help to use booster leads with conductors having a larger cross section. The voltage drop due to resistance of the wires will be less with larger conductors, however I have no experience of trying it to see the practical improvement it will give.

[BobbyEAZ]

I have read where copper tape over the track joints may help. I have seen an entire plastic track with it's rails covered with copper tape.

My routed wood track has copper tape. 

Suggestion ....IF you need to use copper tape in any way, use a small nail and put some fine holes into the tape when on track. This allows the copper to go through the self-adhessive backing tape and onto the power rails.

[Andy P.]

Some tape claims to have conductive adhesive while I have used this and seems to work but the little pin holes may help.

You should also fold the tape over the ends to make a copper to copper connection..

[suffolktim]

Hi guys and girls....new member here! So I have recently given up on my old sport track that I have bought in bits over the years as: 1. my son doesnt get trigger control yet and the new controllers have the speed control, and 2. the tracks have got very, very dirty and bent and Im forever cleaning them to get the cars to go around....

I have bought "mini challenge" set, and now have new track and controllers....my question is, can you add two of the new "modern" power packs to the track, if I decide to increase the new tracks length significantly, and dont want lag due to track length, and if you can use two up to date power packs, I assume you dont have controllers plugged into one of the power packs on the track?

I ask as I have been offered a hardly used very long sport track, with modern power pack, and wondered if I could use that one, and the one I have just bought, on the same circuit?!..

Hope someone can help! (I think I read above somewhere that you can do this, but wanted to check its the new power packs, and not the old ones!)

Cheers!

[gorp]

a lot has been posted on this topic here

the second posts covers about all you need to know at point #4

except disconnect selected lane where 2 wires from powerbase meets only this lane rails underneath track

(analog is 2 separate electrical lanes while digital is just 1 lane)

however recommend light vasoline at rail connnectors over jumpers

[suffolktim]

ok cool...so to confirm I have this right....

on my old sport powerbase there are wires...if I disconnect the two red wires to lane one that would obviously just then power lane two.

On the new powerbase there are sections of metal rather than wire...it I simply clip the sections of metal just before they meet the rail on lane two, the new base would then just power lane one.

I assume its it ok to have the full power from each pack running down one line each?

Im then obviously just plugging in one controller for each powerbase, and on the old powerbase im selecting single, not dual 16v.

Does that all sound about right?!

See pics below!

Cheers!

 

Admin edit: Unfortunately, your images failed to upload. This is likely connected to the recent changes at Photobucket, please check your account and re-upload (or alternatively, use a different method to upload).

[Andy P.]

Please try to post the "C" number of any product you are writing about if possible. Many products have had similar names over the years and there are sometimes Micro and Sport products that come out simultaneously and we need to know which system is the subject of the conversation.

As gorp said, the above is a compilation of options so take a look and let us know how you get on.

[gorp]

forgot to address the real original issue

tracks do not get dirty and bent when properly taken care of

tracks belong on a table and not underfoot

covering them when not in use helps immensely

[Andy P.]

Once you have uploaded the pictures (there is a picture upload serice as part of this forum) we can be more certain but in general, getting max power from one power pack per lane is no problem.

[gorp]

if you already have the sport powerbase which can take 2 power packs

which can provide separate power to each lane

why dont you just buy another powerpack ? 

[alan_james1]

I have no problems running approximately 29 metres (100 ft) of track with just one set of jumper cables for each lane, leading from the straight next to the transformer to the mid point mid on the other side - and I'm still using my (circa 1963) Plexitrack (now referred to as "classic") and the original "Smoothflow" transformers.  These transformers contain metal rectifiers so are virtually bullet proof, albeit they are a bit big (approx 10cm x 8cm x 6cm) and weighty.  The power is so good that I even have to use a Variac variable transformer between the wall outlet and the Smoothflow transformers to limit the speed of the cars.  So, use jumper cables and (as another member posted) keep the track covered or even boxed between uses to keep it clean, dust free and rust free.  I clean my track very lightly before each session and that must be why it has lasted me over 50 years.

There's something to be said for old style kit that was built to last!  I also still have my original rubber track from 1961, which also still works.  I can't use it for modern cars since their blades won't fit round the tight corners on the Goodwood chicane, but my original 1961 Lotus, Cooper-BRM and sharknose Ferrari still run on it of course (they have a single pin instead of a blade) and they all still have the original brushes on the motor commutators!  Bronze bushes and steel gears will outlast plastic ay day!

If, like me, you're not bothered about digital control look out for these old transformers on ebay etc.  The very early hand controllers are not man enough for the 1960s "Race-Tuned" cars or modern cars so look out for the "Race-Tuned" hand controllers as well (Part No: A/262).

[gorp]

There is not a modern analog track equal to my revell.

But real answer to question of maximum track length is when you run out of time or money.

btw the airfix guide pin is too wide to fit modern scaly -   hate to sand it down on porsche f1

[larry_chaney]

I have a very long digital track set up 18 ft straights 7 of them I used copper tape to get power to my back side of my track I tried jumpers but could not get them right , still don’t have perfect power but much better once I added the copper tape .. I wanted to see if any one has tried adding a second digital base with two additi power supplies to get more power or would it blow the base track ? 

[Andy P.]

Most digital power bases (C7042 and ARC PRO) have the ability to add 2 pwoer packs which you should explore.