Connecting power to the track

[david_denham]

How do you lads and lasses connect your power supply 

ive tried power clips unreliable

powered track much the same

my conclusion is solder power wires direct to rails

is there any other reliable method

thanks

dave

 

[Chrissaf]

When I was designing my layout, the thought of using clips and push-in mechanical connectors didn't even enter my head. As someone who can solder, it was a no-brainer. Particularly as my layout is based on live switched electrofrog Peco track. I openly admit to going completely overboard though. I took the idea of a DCC BUS with track droppers to the next level and installed soldered droppers on every single individual piece of track regardless of length (even if it was only 40mm long). Even the switch rails on the Peco points have their own droppers. Thus, no piece of track relies on metal track joiners or physical contact for electrical connectivity. The joiners perform one function only, mechanical joining of rails.

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is there any other reliable method

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In my view, perhaps I am biased given my opening statement. I cannot concieve of any other method other than soldered wires that could possibly improve upon reliability.

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EDIT: I soldered my wires to the underside of the rail (not the outer side of the rail) as I installed each individual length. Thus they are near invisible to the casual observer.

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My approach may be considered over the top and overboard, but I have a layout with no running issues or power drop outs etc. For me it is 100% reliable.

[Chrissaf]

Addendum to last post.

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If your layout is DC. You can still use a BUS and droppers for the main track circuits, but any sidings will either need to retain using the points as a switch and joiners for electrical continuity in the sidings OR the sidings will need plastic joiner isolation with an external switch override arrangement to isolate / connect the power to them.

[david_denham]

Thanks for your reply Chris 

i am using dc

Can you explain bus and droppers please or direct me to where I can read

That must be a lot of wire 

what size do you use and is it all under the base board or just under the track 

maybe you could post a pic of a small piece please

[Chrissaf]

Since you are using DC, any BUS you deploy will be minimal. You would need one BUS per controller if using more than one. The BUS is basically a pair of wires, thicker the better within reason that run UNDER the baseboard to distribute the output of the controller(s) to the different sections of the track. The wires would be in the way if you tried running them under the track. Let's say for example you have two ovals and two controllers, one controller for each oval. Then you would have two BUS circuits one per oval per controller.

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I use 16/0.2mm wire for my main BUS plus 7/0.2mm wire for my droppers. I also use these scotchlok crimp on connectors to make the connection between BUS and dropper. Although many use nylon electrical screw down terminal strips.

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Have a look at these web resources for wiring up suggestions, bear in mind that many web resources (including these two examples) focus mainly on DCC wiring. DCC has different connection and wiring up criteria because the track is all always live. Brian's site does include a lot of DC wiring information as well though.

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Brian Lambert

Model Railway Wiring

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My friend (who got me into this Hobby) is a DC layout user. As I was the electrical wiz (compared to him) I got the job of wiring up his layout. His layout is two ovals with a twin controller plus sidings. Two BUSs one per oval with the sidings using the points as electrical switches was the solution implemented and he is extremely happy with it.

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As a DC user, you only need enough connections between your under baseboard wires and your track to maintain electrical reliability. By all means connect every track length if you want, but remember that the sidings in a DC environment need to remain electrically isolated by some form of switch. Either the switching function of the point itself or an external isolating switch as shown on the linked Brian Lambert pages.

 

[walkingthedog]

The only way is to solder wires directly to the track. I know Chrissaf has said this but as he appears to be the only voice in the wilderness I thought I'd back him up.  

[Chrissaf]

Thanks WTD,

Interestingly, if you look at the posted and edited timings of my last post you will see an hour time lapse. I left the page open (leaving it editable) whilst I had my dinner. That gave me ample opportunity to mull my post over and add more detail after I had washed up and returned to my PC.

Chris

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PS - Should also have added, if there are multiple DC controllers, each with their own BUS wiring. Then it is essential to use colour coded wires to distinguish between them. If you use the same colours throughout, you have a very high risk of cross wiring between the different controller circuits.

[Cronan]

The only way is to solder wires directly to the track. I know Chrissaf has said this but as he appears to be the only voice in the wilderness I thought I'd back him up.  

Hi,

I tried to write something but each time everything froze and when I tried to copy and pace.

[2e0dtoeric]

Solder - definitely! It cannot creep or shake undone, like those horrible little fiddly spring connectors.

Althogh my layout is DCC, I solder BOTH ends of the droppers. Chrissaf said he uses those crimp-on things. I'd rather strip a bit of insulation back, wrap the wires and solder. I stagger the 'pos' and 'neg' joints (although in DCC that is the wrong teminology) so they cannot short across, as well.

[mallone]

Hi David...I always solder my power leads to the underside of the rail connectors and have found it very successful. The wires can then be fed directly down through the baseboard.

[walkingthedog]

I know it's a matter of choice but the weakest electrical part of a layout is the rail joiners. To solder power leads to these joiners is not a good idea. The whole point of having power droppers attached to each section of rail or several sections of rail is to bypass the rail joiners. If you ballast and/or paint the track, paint and glue can seep between the joiners and the rails. Solder the wires to the track. 

 

Also so don't be tempted to solder the joiners to the track, you'll regret it, I guarantee it.  

[david_denham]

Thanks guys so much in awe of your knowledge and appreciate your help and big thanks Chris I am sure I will be bending your ear some more soon

[Chrissaf]

That's what were here for David, to help where we can....

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PS - You might want to check out my previous post regarding techniques to prevent getting shorts in your dropper wiring. It is my addendum post at the bottom of this previously posted page.

[RDS]

Mine are soldered as well.  

To the underside of the track, in the gap between sleepers that can be found on all lengths of (Hornby) Track except the R600.  The droppers are made of stripped out household 1mm cable, using both colours to ensure that they are connected correctly.  The ends are bent through 90 degrees for soldering to the track and a hole drilled directly under the track.  They are totally invisible, once the track has been put down.  The lower end is also soldered to the 'ring' below the board, which is also made of household cable, in this case, stripped out 2.5mm.

[david_denham]

one question chris do you use stranded or single core ?

[Chrissaf]

In RDS’s reply directly above your latest question you will see that he uses domestic mains Twin & Earth (T&E) cable in 1mm and 2.5mm variety. These are solid conductors, but limited to just two colours (UK market). Either Red & Black (now obsolete) or Brown & Blue (new harmonised colours) depending upon age of his cable stock.

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I chose to use stranded cable 16/0.2mm (16 strands of 0.2mm wire) and 7/0.2mm (7 strands of 0.2mm wire) that I bought in bulk on 100 metre reels from Rapid on-line. I needed multiple colours because I have multiple BUS circuits. Brown & Blue for DCC, Red & Black for 12 volt Accessories, Orange & White for 5 volt LED lighting, Yellow, Green and Grey for point motors.

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Pros and Cons:

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Solid conductors – relatively cheap and readily available. You can even recycle ( find in skips [dumpsters to our colonial cousins] ). Limited to two colours. Needs more preparation labour (stripping off outer insulation).  Solid wire is stiffer, meaning may be more difficult to install, if one has to route wire through a convoluted route through holes in baseboard framing.

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Stranded conductors – a little more expensive, wide range of colours available. In my view essential for identifying circuits in the future for fault finding and diagnostics as well as adding to. For example adding additional lights to my LED Lighting circuit or a new 12 volt accessory to my 12 volt BUS circuit at a later date. Far more flexible, meaning easier to work with.

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With regard to droppers. My 7/0.2mm wire is a fraction of the diameter of 1mm T&E solid wire (if still in its insulation).

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The primary issue I personally have with using solid conductor is its lack of resistance to mechanical stress induced breakages. As it is not flexible it can break more easily if disturbed over a period of time.

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If you undertook a poll of forum users I would expect a 60/40 response in favour of solid, but if the 60% using solid were questioned more deeply I think you would find that their decision to use solid was influence by cost and availability considerations far more so than technical suitability.

[2e0dtoeric]

As Chrissaf put, solid core is brittle and tends to break, but often the break is inside the plastic sleeve, so is difficult to locate!

I always use multi-stranded flexi.

To take an extreme example, (and imaginary figures!) Which is more expensive in the long run, solid core at 20p a length, replaced once a month, or flexi, costing £1 a length, replaced never?  :-)

 

[Chrissaf]

A correction to my previous posts regarding stranded wire.

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Eric's reply prompted me to have a look at my financial spreadsheet that I maintain for the building of my layout. I realise now, where I stated using 16/0.2mm stranded conductor. This should have been stated as 24/0.2mm conductor. There is no 16/0.2mm used in my layout (a failure in relying purely on my faulty memory).

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The 24/0.2mm wire cost me £0.1125 GBP per metre (11.25 pence).

The 7/0.2mm wire cost me £0.0344 GBP per metre (3.44 pence).

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Prices correct as in 2012. 🤐

[david_denham]

A correction to my previous posts regarding stranded wire.

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Eric's reply prompted me to have a look at my financial spreadsheet that I maintain for the building of my layout. I realise now, where I stated using 16/0.2mm stranded conductor. This should have been stated as 24/0.2mm conductor. There is no 16/0.2mm used in my layout (a failure in relying purely on my faulty memory).

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The 24/0.2mm wire cost me £0.1125 GBP per metre (11.25 pence).

The 7/0.2mm wire cost me £0.0344 GBP per metre (3.44 pence).

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Prices correct as in 2012. 🤐

Chris I really do appreciate your help on this. But you are starting to scare me if I kept a spreadsheet on my costs I will be divorced by June 

[Chrissaf]

David, its my OCD tendancy kicking in. I have spreadsheets for absolutely everything. Everytime my burglar alarm has a false trigger. Everything I have ever spent on my home in the last 33 years. I have every bank statement I have ever had going back to 18 years old. Every mortgage payment I have made, insurance premiums and endowment payouts. You name it I have a spreadsheet for it.

[2e0dtoeric]

Do you have a spreadsheet for keeping track of your spreadsheets, Chrissaf?  :-)

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That's got him worried now, because he never thought of it, and will be quiet for about six months while he creates one!

[Chrissaf]

Don't need to Eric, have a Word Document for that......

😎 but a very droll comment all the same....made me chuckle.

[walkingthedog]

Solid core is fine if it's left alone once connected.  

[2e0dtoeric]

Not when you have a cat, WTD! They do like shoving into tiny little spaces, and then seeing if they can get out again!  😬

[david_denham]

Chris do you use as long as track as possible so as to reduce soldering I.e. Quad length etc where ever possible is it all hornby or mix and match like peco 

thanks

Dave