Shopping Done 1st Kit Built

[Wayne01]

Well all, Ive done it.

I went shopping for a tool kit and walked away with the following.

Tool box.

Craft Knives.

Diamond Files .

Normal Files.

Sprue Cutters.

Paint Brushes.

Liquid Poly.

Cutting Mat.

Filler.

Clamps.

Archemedean Drill (And bits)

Pliers.

Tweezers (Assorted types).

Spray Primer - Grey.

Then it was onto my build.

Spitfire completed - however I dont know what i have done (if anything) Wrong - it is all painted however it looks very very dull (Matt), I went to find some Klear (I know this product as we used to use it on our boots before a parade) but could not find any - i spoke to the shop i get my kit from and he said it is discontinued but he does have something in place of it (It used to say on the bottle - "Formally Called Klear") I have washed this over it and whilst a slight shine nothing too glossy.

Build time was approx 5 hrs (Is this average or am i rushing) - Also noticed that some people are recommending a sealant for after decal (Not placed them on it yet) - what sealeant would you recommend and also aging, Ink wash.

 

My head hurts now - modeling was not like this 30 years ago.

 

thanks guys - Pics will follow

 

[Braille Dave]

The product formally known as 'Klear' will seal the decals- once the decals are on and dried (24hrs or so). If you want a matt finish Humbrol do a range of products called 'Clear' (hmm!) in various finishes, gloss, satin & matt. That'll do the job too.

 

I know what you mean... as a lad I used to use emery boards (proffed from my mums make-up drawer), a bit of wet 'n' dry (proffed from my dad's shed) and a Swann Morton craft knife- the orange one.

 

...Now I've got Squadron sanding sticks, Ultimate thinny sticks and Albion sanding needles... as well as needle files, more wet 'n' dry and seven modelling knives (Swann Morton Scalpels- 2x No3 handles and one micro fine, a micro chisel and three X-actos of various sizes)

 

.....I've just realised the kit I use most is a strip of wet 'n' dry about 7mm wide and and a Swann Morton No3 with a No10A blade, and occasionally the other with a saw blade in. The Micro fine comes in when I'm cleaning up figures.

 

...The rest just makes my modelling area (a corner of my workshop) look busy...

[DavidJC]

Hah hah, that brings back memories Braile Dave. My mum didn't like me taking her emery boards and my father was reluctant to give me anything to help at all. I made do with a worn emery board, scissors and a kitchen knife alot of the time. Now I have allsorts of tools and accessories - cutters, scalpels, sanding sticks, wet'n'dry, microdrills and the pinvice type thing as well as an Archimedes chuck... all sorts.

 

Wayne01, I for one would love to see your photos. To pick up on one of your questions, I think the key is never to rush anything, so don't worry if you think it took you too long, or even if you worry it didn't take you long enough, It depends on the kit and what time you have available to you at any one time. Some of my kits can take weeks if not months, but I can only do it say a couple of hours an evening or over a weekend (my main times), and would depend on size and complexity. I could probably finish any kit much sooner, but that might mean rushing it and doing it when I am not in the mood which will spoil the results. If it means leaving sub-assemblies for much longer to cure than is strictly necessary, that's what I do. Indeed, I am dictated by of course things like working during the day anyway. I am also limited to when I can use my airbrush due to domestic arrangements, so that can slow things too.

[vimal_indrasoma]

 Spitfire completed - however I dont know what i have done (if anything) Wrong - it is all painted however it looks very very dull (Matt)

 

Not to worry Wayne - old-time war planes were supposed to be matt-finished, to help keep them from being spotted by the enemy, and most Humbrol and other model paints are matt finish - usually says so on the tin/bottle. If you do want it shiny like a museum exhibit, whack a coat of gloss or satin clear varnish on top at the very end, it'll help keep your decals from getting scratched as well. If you're doing a war-time machine, use matt clear (keep it off the canopy, you want that shiny).

Talking about decals, they go on better on smooth surfaces, so put a patch of gloss or 'Kleer' where they are supposed to go, before you put them on.

Oh, for the good old days when we used tins of chinese lacquer from the hardware store, mixed to match the picture on the kit label! If you wanted a matt finish, you had to sprinkle baby powder on the wet paint ...

[Wayne01]

 Thanks Guys.

well i have now removed the paint of my model and i am going to re-sand the finish and also re-fill.

could still see some of the joins (as an engineer - i hate things not right.)

I will take pics as it is now, when painted and also when decalled)

thanks again