Hornby Power Booster

[wils13]

I have a reasonable size layout being 4 medium size oval loops with 4 fiddling yards running off these, 1 yard of which expands into 10 roads alone holding 6/7/8 wagon consists to give you an idea of size.  Points on the whole layout amount to c.40 odd but these are not connected up & are all manually operated as I simply dont have the skill sets to do anything other than this. 

Since extending the final large fiddle yard above to 10 roads some of the locos (I have 40 odd locos) seem to be struggling with pick up & appear to have limited power in places.  I never run more than 3 locos at a time so would a Honrby Power Booster rectify this does anyone know?  I run a Hornby Elite so I didnt think only running 3 locos would provide a problem, unless the size of the layout is the problem does anyone know?

[Fishmanoz]

Hi wils, welcome to the forums.

 

Rule of thumb on boosters - you don't need one until your layout takes up both car spaces in your double garage.

 

For you, only 3 locos at once you can run from a 1 Amp power supply, no problem whatsoever with your 4 Amp Elite. 

 

My guess as to your problem - imperfect power connections around your layout.  Are you running with a single or just a couple of power connections plus DCC point clips?  If so, you might consider a DCC bus and more connections to your layout via soldered droppers from your track to the bus.  That will obviate higher resistance connections via fishplates and the point clips.

[Chrissaf]

Wils, welcome to the forum with your 1st post.

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Totally agree with Fishy on this one. You need a decent 'hard wired' power distribution system that does not rely on mechanical connections i.e fish-plate track joiners and point DCC clips.

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Also be aware, that if you DID implement a 'Power Booster', you would have to segment your track layout into distinct electrically isolated power districts. This would need careful planning and knowledge about what you are doing**. This would require bits of track to be lifted to insert insulated joiners at strategic locations.

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Note** relevant as you stated lack of skill in your original post.

[wils13]

Thanks gents for the replies, really helpful.  Er, I rely on Hornby DCC point clips, 1 (!!) Hornby DCC power rail connector & that is it!  Size wise it is 1 garage size plus the large 10 road fiddle yard built on as an extra so not 2 garages in size & as I say, I only run 3 locos max.

The isololating of the layout for the power booster shouldnt be too hard as I can almost spit the layout in half to run the booster & I have the insulated joiners already but not the booster yet.  However, there seems little point in this from fish' reply - my problem is the connection (or lack of them!) by the sounds of it.

Sorry to be ignorant, but "bus" connectors - seen this mentioned many times but no idea what it means.  As I mentioned, I simply run the Elite power cable to the standard power rail & that is it ....?  Do I simply solder 1 track wire to the Elite, then solder 2nd wire to that same track looping it elsewhere on the layout to spread the power?

[Chrissaf]

A picture can save a 1,000 words.

I'll knock up a quick drawing and post later today.

[Chrissaf]

Here is the rough and ready drawing I promised of an example power BUS scheme. If it fills or exceeds the visible screen. Then right click the image and if an option to 'view image' is available chose that. If only 'save image' is available chose that and view in suitable external photo application. The droppers from the track to the BUS can be strategically distributed around your layout to provide power to weak layout areas. Note that this power distribution arrangement REPLACES your current power track clip connector.

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/media/tinymce_upload/9ecfeb1c5343eaa502e33821d30c0b1d.jpg

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[Chrissaf]

PS - The colours of the wires I have used are just arbitrary colours I chose for the drawing. The connection to the Elite just uses the BUS wires trapped under the Elite track connector spring terminals replacing the wires that go to the existing track power connector. If enough droppers are deployed, then the DCC point clips could be optionally removed.

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PPS - I used the term 'polarity' in the drawing because it is a term that most users understand. A DCC signal does not have polarity it has phase. But for the purpose of installing a BUS it is convenient to consider the wiring as having a polarity to maintain consistent connectivity to eliminate short circuit wiring errors.

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Come back if you want more information on the crimp / spade terminal connection option. This is the method I use very successfully for all my under baseboard wiring. The push in spade terminal arrangement allows easy disconnection for diagnostic testing etc.

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It would appear that I have been given 'Trusted Status' by Adam for posting images (Adam did say that 'Trusted Status' was a new feature added to the forum). This is the third post on the new forum software where I have had images appear within minutes of posting.

[wils13]

Thats brillant - even I can undersatand that!  Many thanks Chrissaf.  Just one final question, do I make the connections to say the outside track only of the oval or one to each of the ovals for instance tp spread the power making sure I do not "cross over" causing the short circuit?

[Chrissaf]

I recommend installing droppers in pairs, one wire to each rail for each chosen layout track position. As your layout is DCC, the WHOLE layout should be permanently live. Thus you would distribute your dropping positions across ALL the ovals, so that each oval and the fiddle yards and sidings all have power access to local dropper positions all connected back to the same under board BUS wires. The use of colours is essential to keep track (pun intended) of all your connections and to which rail (left or right) they are soldered to.

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Some on here use the wagon technique to prevent dropper wiring shorts. Take a small wagon apply a bit of tape to one side. Decide on a wire colour (I shall use Red in this explanation). Now push the truck around the track (never lift it off). Now whenever you stop the truck at an intended dropper connection location. You solder the Red wire to the rail associated with the tape side of the truck and your other dropper colour (Blue in my example) to the rail on the non tape side of the truck. If you never lift the truck off the track and push your truck through point cross-overs to get from one oval to another, then the left rail will always be the left rail and the right rail will always be the right. Even when the truck is pushed into fiddle yards and sidings.

 

[96RAF]

On my 3 loop roundy round track I have the outer rails of each loop connected together with a red link between outer/mid/inner loops and all the inner rails of each loop connected with a black link.

 

As Chris says colours don't matter as long as they as consistant. Mine are opposite to those Chris shows (i.e. his Red/Blue - mine Black/Red)

 

Then  I have a red and a black going off to the TRACK connections on the controller.

[JMan]

@Chrissaf

Does your bus diagram work for an eLink?

[Nick_]

Yes it does, connect to the Red and Black terminals marked 'Track' on the eLink

 

[96RAF]

In fact you can connect a 'Chris' bus to anything electrical in the way of controllers.

[Chrissaf]

Nothing more for me to say....its all been said.

[Bulver]

Thanks, Chris and RAF, a concise and straightforward description,  I have decided that as I don't have a permanent home for my layout, I am going the 'Kato' route (as suggested by a previous post from a forum member).  I will still create a 'ring main' utilising their rack connectors, and will use the 'truck' method to ensure fail safe connections.  Once again, many thanks

[JMan]

Thanks for the help.