E-Link help

[Delboy_Trotter]

Hi All

I need some help with my hornby e-link

So i have both an OO and N guage layout and in fact have 2 e-links
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The one im having issues with is the N guage in that i can't get railmaster to read the CV's so i can programme the address...

i've eliminated the e-link itself by hooking it into my OO layout and it happily reads my OO cv's and controls loco's....

the best response i have managed from the N guage however is for the loco to surge forward and then i get CV unreadable, or if i hold the loco lightly i get a different address everytime?

Please help as im at my witts end with the N guage!

[Chrissaf]

Is it the case that the N gauge CV reading / writing used to work and now it doesn't?

or

Is it a new installation on the N gauge and reading / writing CV's you have never got working?

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Two eLinks, one for 00 and one for N, but do they both share the same version of RM and PC?

or

Do you have two PC's and RM on each, one for each eLink?

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If sharing the same RM PC and you are using one eLink as RM controller A on the 00 gauge layout, but connecting the N gauge eLink as controller B on the same RM PC. Then controller B can not read and write CVs. There has been a recent post precisely relating to this issue, the post is called 'Dual Controllers' (click the link to see it). This is not a fault, it is the way that RM is designed to work.

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If you are trying to use the dual controller RM feature to operate two different layouts, then that mode of operation is not supported by that RM feature. The RM dual controller feature was designed to split the same layout into loco and accessory control.

[96RAF]

If you want to run both a 00 and N gauge layouts from one copy of RM and only use one Link then all you need is a DPDT switch.

 

Run the eLink Track output to the centre pair of the DPDT switch terminals, and run each pair of the switch outer terminals to each layout track connections. Then you select 00 or N layout on the switch and the eLink and RM will be in charge of that layout.

 

For Programming run a pair of wires from the eLink PROG output to a piece of 00 and a piece of N track. You are unlikely to have two locos on programming at the same time so oit matters not if both are live at the same time.

 

Set the eLink up as Controller A in RM and either have 2 track plans - one for 00 and one for N, which will be a pest as it means switching between them in setup each time you want to use the other, or you can device a trackplan with both layouts on the same screen and have both loco lists on that plan, then its just a case of flip the DPDT switch to bring either layout into play.

 

Someone will be along shortly to say its even easier than that...

 

[Delboy_Trotter]

So its a case of i've never got the n guage working, its running on differnet computers, the n is running on my laptop and the OO on a older PC so 2 seperate versions of RailMaster as well

Like i said i hooked up the new e-link to the old installation and it works fine, including reading the CV's hence im at a loss

[Chrissaf]

OK, concentrating on the Laptop with eLink running the N gauge layout.

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Is the laptop Windows 10?

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Have you followed the advice given in the last reply post located in the locked RailMaster: Setting Up and getting Started thread located at the top of the Hornby Railmaster & Trackmaster section of this forum.

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Even if your Laptop is not Win 10, the advice in that particular post is still relevant. In particular confirm that your Railmaster.INI file contains the following two lines:

Alternative comms=1

Check controller=1

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See page 33 of the RM 1.64 manual for information on how to check and edit your .INI file. If those two lines are missing, then there is a high probability that is the source of your problem.

[96RAF]

Start by reloading RM from the latest download at the top of the RM page.

 

Are your eLinks at the latest revision state i.e. v1.07 - hover over the controller icon top right of screen in RM to find out. If not update them/it from the RM folder if RM hasn't picked up on it automatically - see the RM manual for how to do it.

 

Make sure your Track and Prog connections are to separate tracks - i.e. Track to layout, and Prog to a short length of track not connected to anything else.

[Delboy_Trotter]

OK, concentrating on the Laptop with eLink running the N gauge layout.

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Is the laptop Windows 10?

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Have you followed the advice given in the last reply post located in the locked RailMaster: Setting Up and getting Started thread located at the top of the Hornby Railmaster & Trackmaster section of this forum.

.

Even if your Laptop is not Win 10, the advice in that particular post is still relevant. In particular confirm that your Railmaster.INI file contains the following two lines:

Alternative comms=1

Check controller=1

.

See page 33 of the RM 1.64 manual for information on how to check and edit your .INI file. If those two lines are missing, then there is a high probability that is the source of your problem.

Yes, the new install is Windows 10 (the old is Win7)

I'll have a look this evening at it, its been doing my head in for several days now and i've not seen anything on google - i even considered dual booting my laptop with windows 7

The most i've managed to date is a surge on the prog track so i'll give it a go!

[Chrissaf]

There have been several reports that Laptop brand can impact on whether an eLink works or not. What brand / model is your W10 Laptop?.

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Lenovo seems to be a problematic brand as do some Dells ( a Dell XPS with intel motherboard featured specifically in a recent post as having an issue with eLink).

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ACERs seem totally fine and OK.

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It seems to be an issue with the USB chipsets used by some Laptop manufacturers.

[westernwill]

 Why not change the CV address using your OO gauge setup which you know works. That gets round the CV problem.

Next question is can you run locos at all on the N gauge system.

[Bigskybirds]

 

I had the Dell XPS issue with elink. Every thing pointed at the Computer or usb link but in the end it was the elink box only proved once a friend lent me his elink to try. 

I understand your frustration

[Chrissaf]

BSB, do you recall what firmware your problematic eLink had compared to your friends working eLink? That might give a clue.

[Bigskybirds]

BSB, do you recall what firmware your problematic eLink had compared to your friends working eLink? That might give a clue.

Both were 1.07 but it appears mine was not upgrading properly. 

[Chrissaf]

I've just been re-reading your other thread, page by page and saw the comment about 1.05 failing, then 1.07 and having to do it manually. One of the posts inferred that you downgraded RM 1.64 to an earlier version on the supplied CD ROM, another post infers that is the version (earlier one) that you are currently using hence the later posts regarding preventing auto-updates.

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Question: What version of RM have you decided to standardise on for your programming only activities?

[Bigskybirds]

When the replacement Dell arrived I installed from the supplied cdrom whilst installing I had a message informing me my elink was 1.05 and it was upgrading. The upgrade failed and I did it manually. Prior to installing from the cdrom the original install said my box was already at 1.07

[Chrissaf]

Misunderstanding......I meant the version of RailMaster (currently version 1.64.0) I assume the CD ROM version of RailMaster was earlier than that......possibly version 1.57?

.

The question was....what version of RailMaster have you decided to standardise on?

[Bigskybirds]

I never received any response from Hornby regarding the fault and left Railmaster at 1.64. It was only when I borrowed another Elink I could determine it was that which was at fault and not the PC. 

[Chrissaf]

Thanks for the clarification BSB.......most useful.

[Bigskybirds]

 Like the poster of this thread I tried everything I could think of even changing PC's when all along it was a faulty box.

[Delboy_Trotter]

Sorry for the delayed reply - im on a 3 post a day restriction as im new at the moment

So i looked and the .ini file last nite and it was missing the 2 lines, however code no joy.....

I know the e-link works as when i hook it up to windows 7 and my 00 guage and the unit reads CV's and runs trains no problems

The only thing i can think of now and seeing the posts is that its down to either windows 10 or my Dell laptop.

Im running 1.64 software and 1.07 firmware

Before i try another windows 7 machine (or dual boot my windows 10) i'll try my e-link from upstairs that is know to be good

the only othe possibility i can really come up with now is goosed chips on the N guage.....

It would be nice to crack this over the weekend as so far i can only have 2 loco's run in circles with a DC controller (chips out of Loco's) on the N guage layout

[Chrissaf]

Excuse my ignorance but this sentence of yours I found a bit vague:

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"So i looked and the .ini file last nite and it was missing the 2 lines, however code no joy....."

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So the two lines "Alternative comms=1" and "Check controller=1" are missing. What is not clear, is have you now added them by editing the .INI file. Have you confirmed that the edit was successful. Are they listed each on their own separate individual line and are they displayed exactly as below:

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Alternative comms=1

Check controller=1

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The two lines above need to be in the .INI file on a Win 10 machine else eLink won't work correctly. Have you gone through the rest of the locked post I recommended in my page 1 second post, regarding Com port numbers and buad rates, have you compared these values against entries in 'Device Manager' etc. These documented steps in the locked post should be followed to the letter.

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PS - You don't need to remove the DCC chips from the loco to run them on DC. Subject to the value of CV29 they should be DC compatible.

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PPS - If the N gauge layout was previously a DC one with a DC Power Track / Clip. This needs to be replaced with a DCC one that does not have the DC supression capacitors in them (if fitted). Any capacitor across the track connections will interfere with the DCC digital signals.

[Rog RJ]

How are you connecting the elink to the N gauge track?  Are you using power clips/power tracks or do you have soldered connections?  If using power clips/tracks have they got suppressor capacitors in them or are they the digital compatible ones without capacitors?  I have to say I know next to nothing about N gauge so I may be talking rubbish (again 😬).

[Delboy_Trotter]

Excuse my ignorance but this sentence of yours I found a bit vague:

.

"So i looked and the .ini file last nite and it was missing the 2 lines, however code no joy....."

.

So the two lines "Alternative comms=1" and "Check controller=1" are missing. What is not clear, is have you now added them by editing the .INI file. Have you confirmed that the edit was successful. Are they listed each on their own separate individual line and are they displayed exactly as below:

.

Alternative comms=1

Check controller=1

.

The two lines above need to be in the .INI file on a Win 10 machine else eLink won't work correctly. Have you gone through the rest of the locked post I recommended in my page 1 second post, regarding Com port numbers and buad rates, have you compared these values against entries in 'Device Manager' etc. These documented steps in the locked post should be followed to the letter.

.

PS - You don't need to remove the DCC chips from the loco to run them on DC. Subject to the value of CV29 they should be DC compatible.

.

PPS - If the N gauge layout was previously a DC one with a DC Power Track / Clip. This needs to be replaced with a DCC one that does not have the DC supression capacitors in them (if fitted). Any capacitor across the track connections will interfere with the DCC digital signals.

I followed the instructions in the manual/on the locked post to the letter - i had it on my ipad nest to the Laptop

The layout has always been DCC, hence the track is entirely live and my programme track is a length of straight track with the power soldered directly to the ends (i've confimed they are connected by buzzing them out with a multimeter)

The edit was sucessful as i stopped and started the software and went to re-edi and they had held in the .ini

Its fustrating as i plugged and played last time, hence sticking with what i know. My next thought is i will connect my known good e-link to the windows 10 set up, but im not holding my breath as when i take the new e-link to the 00 and hook it in it works as it should

[Chrissaf]

My next thought is i will connect my known good e-link to the windows 10 set up

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Sounds like a good plan.

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If this also fails then the only other thing I can suggest is to raise a support request via the integral support request feature within RailMaster (see the 'Help' page link top navigation bar) and ask HRMS (Hornby RailMaster Support) to remotely log into your Win 10 Laptop. They can usually tweak settings and get most users working.

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I appreciate that this may be a 'Grandmother sucking eggs' moment, but could you just humour me and check the 'Controller A' settings in 'RailMaster System Settings' page. Tell us what you find there relating to Controller A.

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What entries do you have for the following value boxes:

Controller A:

DCC Controller port:

Baud Rate:

Data bits:

Parity:

Stop bits:

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Also. Is the controller icon in the top right hand corner of RailMaster 'Green' in colour. It looks a bit like an image of an old audio cassette. When you hover your mouse cursor over it, do you get a pop up saying "controller A 1.07" or does it say "controller A inactive" or something else, if so what.

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PS - when replying there is no need to keep using the 'Blue Quote' arrow icon button embedded in the post. Scroll down to the bottom of the page and write your reply in the great big empty reply text box and use the 'Green' Reply button. This saves all of my previous long replies being duplicated unnecessarily.

[Delboy_Trotter]

So i didn't get a chance to play over the weekend due to life conspiring against me...

I'll try and have a look tonight, or friday (long weekend!)

[Fozzy Bear]

I just started watching a video from a bloke called Rob McCrain and he stated that N gauge DCC runs at 12V DCC and HO/OO runs at 16+V DCC. You might be frying your decoders