Good Books ?

[Paul60]

Hi,

Can anyone recommend a good book or two on model railway 00 Guage with emphasis on track layout please.

I just bought a few lengths of Hornby R621 Flex Track and want to learn about curves, easements, ballast, how to work with Flex Track etc.

Cheers,

Paul.

 

 

 

 

[StephenD]

Paul,

I’m quite surprised that no one has yet responded to your query, given that there are many very helpful and experienced modellers on this forum.  As an inexperienced modeller, I am constantly interested in the advice that these forum members give and have compiled a list of information sources and tips to help me in my own modelling.  Based on this, I would suggest that you check out the following internet resources:

http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/

This is frequently recommended as an excellent source of advice, information and tips.  The site’s owner also has a book published, which you will see advertised on the site.

www.oorail.com

This site provides links to a series of videos on different topics that may be of interest, including one on how to cut flexible track using a Dremel power tool and how to install fishplates (rail joiners) to join it to track that’s already laid e.g. when creating a loop.

This video is the first part of a series showing the construction of a permanent model railway (Moorway South).  Part 5 (

) covers laying the track and pinning it down, including using track cutters on flexible track.

This is the first in another series of videos showing the construction of an extension to an existing layout (Everard Junction).

This video covers ballasting of the track and is the first in a series of ‘how to’ videos based on experience of constructing Everard Junction.

 

Some years ago, I attended a talk given by Bob Phelps (who was then the Senior Designer at Peco) and made the following notes based on the advice which he gave:

Laying Track

• Should have a sub-base – either cork or balsa wood.
• Recommend gluing track to sub-base using Evostick impact adhesive – apply a bead of glue along the webbing underneath each rail and then stick the track into position, holding it down (temporarily only) with pins or sticky tape until the glue has dried.  The glue will smooth out any bumps or hollows on the baseboard surface, resulting in level track.
• Pinning not recommended as it transfers noise into baseboard.
• Use superelevation to improve running on curved track – glue one side down (i.e. inside of curve) and when dry, insert small plasticard offcuts under the other side.
• Paint Sleepers with Humbrol No. 97.
• Paint Rails with Humbrol No. 160.
• Weather sleepers with Humbrol No.28, using dry-brush technique.

 Ballasting

• Recommend Woodland Scenics ballast.
• Use masking tape to define ballast edge on both sides of track, add ballast and using a piece of hard foam cut to fit the track gauge, spread ballast into position.
• Fill an aerosol bottle with water, add a couple of drops of washing-up liquid (to act as a release agent) and shake it, before spraying onto the ballast.  Make sure the ballast is pretty wet but don’t spray too close, so the ballast won’t be disturbed.  Then apply a 50/50 mix of PVA white glue and water with an eye dropper or other suitable applicator.  The PVA/water must be well mixed, so it just looks like white water and enough must be applied so that the entire ballast is covered with the mixture.
• Carefully peel off the masking tape and then leave to dry for 24 hours.

 Joining Flexible Track on a Curve

• Often ends up with a dogleg due to tendency of track to straighten.
• Remove about 10 sleepers from end of track to be connected on curve.
• Pre-curve both rail ends (bending more than the required curvature, as it will tend to spring back a bit).
• Replace the 10 sleepers – rails will stay in correct curvature.
• Glue track down and repeat process with 2nd track.  Fishplates are not needed to maintain the track curvature, but may be needed to carry the electrical current.

 Providing for Track Expansion

• A 3 foot length of nickel silver rail will expand by nearly an eighth of an inch in an uninsulated loft on a hot summer’s day.
• Glued down ballast will help to prevent expansion caused by heat.
• If track is not ballasted, use a piece of 30 thou plasticard to create a gap between each length of track.
• Problem of heat is reduced if the layout is in a garage or, even better, in a temperature-controlled room.

 Connecting Power to OO Track

• A temporary connection can be made easily using rail joiners pushed into the gaps underneath the rail (on Peco track).  The wires are inserted into the rail joiner and soldered.
• Wires can also be soldered to the underside of rail joiners, which can then be used to connect 2 tracks in the normal way.  Make sure the rail joiners are a tight fit.
• Wires can be soldered directly to the side of the rails, but this leaves an unsightly blob of solder.
• To make a neat connection, tin the end of the wire, then push it under the rail with a bit of flux on it, then hold the iron onto the rail and the heat will pull solder onto the rail.

 Improving Turnouts

• Feather end of turnout blades using a needle file to create a smooth transition onto the blade.
• Smooth off the point on the back of the blade where it changes from single to double thickness.
• Smooth off the point where the blade goes into the rail section, again to create a smooth transition.
• Smooth off the sharp edge at the frog tip.
• Smooth off the shear ends of the wing rails.

 Improving Rail Joins

• Add extra sleepers (with rail fixing removed) at rail joins to make track look more realistic.

 Laying Track Over Baseboard Joins

• Cut the track sub-base in line with the baseboard join.
• Insert 2 brass screws either side of the join, so that they will be under each rail and between the track sleepers.
• Remove the web on the underside of the rail corresponding to the location where the screws will be and then lay the track over the join.
• Solder the rails to the screws.
• Using a drill cutter (e.g. Dremel), cut the rails in line with the baseboard join.  Xuron track cutters can be used but one side of the cut will need to be tidied up with a file.

 Using Fishplates/Rail Joiners

• Fishplates help to align track but are not usually used to carry electrical current on a DCC layout.  A lot of DCC modellers don’t use fishplates, but instead install dropper wires every 1 or 2 yards, connected to a bus wire.
• Personal preference is not to use insulated rail joiners, as these can fail if the track expands, whereas a piece of plasticard (stuck down with superglue) will not be cut by the track.

I hope this helps.

Stephen

[Yelrow]

Stephen D, a lot of very good sensible advice. I think why few people responded, is that most of us, have done it by trial and mostly error, over many years the hard way. I have never opened a book on anything to do with railway modelling, preferring my own efforts, to those who have gone before. Also for several of us, we constantly modify/ alter, which  for me is almost as good as actually running. I dont ballast, landscape, pin down, preferring to screw for easy removal. As for flexi track, practice, makes perfect.  Its an individual thing. Many on here would be horrified at how i go about it, as much as i am, when i see these permanent layouts, unable to be easily altered, and very prone to become boring.  I ask questions as i go along, as they arise, much prefer to  try and solve track plans that wont link. john

[poliss]

All my books are N Scale.

[Postman Prat]

At my age (or Poliss's) it's too difficult to read in N scale

[Fazy]

I thought others  would have helped.  As most of my books are years old and probably been superceded by now.  Today for such things I just look it up on the web. Unless I want a specialise book such a loco/track building etc.

[2e0dtoeric]

A lot of DCC modellers don’t use fishplates, but instead install dropper wires every 1 or 2 yards, connected to a bus wire. - - - - Really? What keeps the track ends in line, then? Good luck?

Bus wire droppers - fpr every piece of track, not every two yards!

[Howbi]

@Paul60...............Why don't you buy the Hornby Handbook 2016 for a start, it has beginners guides in it and many useful articles... HB

[StephenD]

Thanks guys!  I rather hoped that my reply would bring this call for help to people's notice and am pleased to see that I was successful in that. 

yelrow, I agree that many (or most) may do it by trial and error, but I thought I would try to give Paul a starting point.  He will have to learn what works for him and change accordingly but if he doesn't know where to start he's not going to get far.

fazy, I agree that the web is probably the best resource.  You may have noticed I didn't suggest any books.

2e0d, I suggest you direct your queries to Bob Phelps!

Stephen

[Paul60]

 Thanks StephenD (and all the other replies),

 

That is all excellent advice & some great links.

Appreciate it & I'll order a copy of the Hornby Handbook

Cheers :)

[StephenD]

  Paul,

In fairness to 2e0d, he is right about the use of fishplates. The 2nd last bullet point in my first post above should have made it clear that many modellers don't use fishplates to carry electrical current between pieces of track but do use them to align the individual pieces of track. This could have been inferred from the context, as the entire bullet point is clearly about electrical current being supplied to the track. Nonetheless, the misinterpretation by 2e0d is understandable.

He is also right in pointing out that if you're not going to rely on fishplates to carry electrical current then each individual piece of track will need to be connected to the output from your controller in some other way. Many modellers use copper strip or wire to carry the current around the layout, usually under the baseboard. This is called a 'Bus wire' and individual pieces of track are attached to this by means of 'dropper wires', which are soldered both to the track and to the bus wire. Naturally, a bus wire would be required for each side of the track.

I hope the links I gave you will help you to get started with your modelling but remember there are few imperatives in this hobby (how to prevent short circuits would be one). If something works for you, then that is all that matters.  Have fun.

Stephen

[VESPA]

Super reply Stephen. I missed the OP.

[StephenD]

 Paul,

I should have included the following link to the Peco Technical Advice Bureau, which provides some instruction leaflets, including one that covers how to lay flexible track, and a (short) FAQ section: http://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=advice

Vespa, Thanks for your kind comment. I have been collecting this information for my own use for some time and am glad to be able to share it with someone else.

Stephen

[Howbi]

@StephenD.............It should be noted that there are probably hundreds of model railways running DCC layouts without dropper wires quite successfully relying on the fishplates for reliable connectivity like I do.......the novice modeller should not be given the impression that metal rail joiners are useless............it is, however, reasonable to advise the modeller whilst expanding his layout to add droppers as the layout gets bigger..... 😀.....HB

[StephenD]

Fair point HB and duly noted.  In my defence, I consider myself also to be a novice modeller and was simply trying to pass on advice (as I understood it) from somebody else, who is or was the Senior Designer at Peco and who would have far more experience than I.  It wasn't my intention to give Paul the impression that metal fishplates/rail joiners are useless, nor was it my intention to be prescriptive about how he should lay his track (or anything else, for that matter).

In fact, I deliberately didn't offer any opinions of my own, given my lack of experience. 😇

Stephen

P.S. This is my second attempt to post this reply.  The first appears to have disappeared into the ether!

[Fazy]

The metal fish plates are pretty good to conducting electricity. If the layout is in a room with a stable temperature. And not disturbed.   However where they start to fail is if the track is charged around multiple times which slowly opens up the fish plate reducing their reliability.  The same happens if the track is subjected to a wide temperature change.  With the constant contracting and expansion of the track. Like you find in a shed or loft.

 

I use a bus wire though for different reasons.  Using SMP track dose have its downsides all the extra wiring needed.