Power loss over/between express electro frog points

[70s kid]

Could I ask for advice why trains travelling from outer track to inner via 2 electrofrog express points (with insulating joiners) are now losing power in the area circled? There was no problem until a couple of days ago and I've changed nothing other than put in a night mail pickup point that has no power implications as far as I can assess anyway? The corresponding arrangement on the other side from inner to outer works fine so I'm baffled what the issue is and why only now is it stopping Locos dead. Many thanks in frustration/media/tinymce_upload/8da1c83172bbda7f4b4b250531121447.jpg

[Chrissaf]

Add a couple of extra droppers to your DCC bus in the circled area......obviously the previous path your DCC power took to reach this location has either been compromised or developed a fault.

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If you have a multi-meter on 20 volt AC range, then you could trace the power to see at what exact position in the rails it fails.

[Chrissaf]

PS - I assumed DCC not DC, because my recollection of your previous posts were DCC related. But my recollections do sometimes fail me.

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PS, when you say Insulated Rail Joiners (IRJ). I assume you meant that these joiners are at the V of both point frogs and not on BOTH rails where the points clip together (in the circle). The IRJs need to be at the frog V's, this then allows each point to extend power on one its rails into the crossover area. To explain using your photo as a guide, the top point would extend power to the bottom rail of the crossover. The bottom point would extend power into to the top rail of the crossover.

[Chrissaf]

Before someone jumps in and queries my comments about IRJ locations. Remember 70's kid stated electrofrog points (Peco) not Hornby insulfrogs. The two point types have different IRJ requirements.

[Rog RJ]

Try cleaning the moving point rails where they contact the fixed rails.  If there is a bad contact you will get this sort of stalling behaviour. 

[St1ngr4y]

Are you providing swiched power to the frogs or are you relying on blade-to-stock rail contact?

Ray

[70s kid]

Thanks guys, I cleaned the back of the blades with methylated spirit and added an addifional dropper wire to the 'dead' section and it's running like a charm again. 

I ran a loco over the area after cleaning with meths (before I added the additional dropper) and it stalled. Problem is, now I've fixed the problem with the extra dropper, the loco gives off a buzzing noise with power to the track. If I reverse the direction it moves about an inch then stops dead and buzzes, totally stationary. Its 'Adderley Hall' that I fitted an R8249 decoder into & it ran perfect before. As the loco moves albeit just an inch, I'm thinking the decOder is blown? 

Thanks guys 

[70s kid]

Thanks guys, I cleaned the back of the blades with methylated spirit and added an addifional dropper wire to the 'dead' section and it's running like a charm again. 

I ran a loco over the area after cleaning with meths (before I added the additional dropper) and it stalled. Problem is, now I've fixed the problem with the extra dropper, the loco gives off a buzzing noise with power to the track. If I reverse the direction it moves about an inch then stops dead and buzzes, totally stationary. Its 'Adderley Hall' that I fitted an R8249 decoder into & it ran perfect before. As the loco moves albeit just an inch, I'm thinking the decOder is blown? 

Thanks guys 

[Fishmanoz]

You said previously it was working some days ago but not now and nothing had changed.  Are you now saying it was previously running DC bit not now that you've fitted a decoder?

 

If it is now working at all, I wouldn't call the decoder blown, but it may be faulty to some extent.  Do you have a different one you can try?

[Chrissaf]

There have been quite a few posts recently where decoder pins have been pushed too far into the socket and due to poor insulation fitted by Hornby has resulted in the pins making contact with things they shouldn't. Check for pin clearances and if necessary add a bit of insulation tape to the chassis under the decoder position. No guarantee that this is the solution, but you have to start somewhere. 

[Rog RJ]

Thanks guys, I cleaned the back of the blades with methylated spirit and added an addifional dropper wire to the 'dead' section and it's running like a charm again. 

I ran a loco over the area after cleaning with meths (before I added the additional dropper) and it stalled. Problem is, now I've fixed the problem with the extra dropper, the loco gives off a buzzing noise with power to the track. If I reverse the direction it moves about an inch then stops dead and buzzes, totally stationary. Its 'Adderley Hall' that I fitted an R8249 decoder into & it ran perfect before. As the loco moves albeit just an inch, I'm thinking the decOder is blown? 

Thanks guys 

That sounds as though something is wrong mechanically such as valve gear binding, preventing the wheels from turning.

[70s kid]

Thanks fish man and Chris. I fitted the decoder weeks ago so it was running fine DCC - I made no changes but then this section became 'dead' until I fitted the extra dropper that fixed it. 

I'll try loosening the decoder as it did go fully all the way into the socket so if there's a design issue with the pins, its worth a try. I've no spare decoder unfortunately to switch with but will get a couple to convert DC Locos over the next couple of weeks. 

Many thanks guys 

[70s kid]

Hi fishman and Chris, 

i fitted the decoder a cpurple of weeks ago and it was running fine DCC until now this buzz/humming. If there's an issue with the Hornby decoder pins I'll try to loosen the decoder and try the insulating tape. I'm relieved you reckon the decoder isn't blown as it starts to move before stopping after about an inch and the buzzing starts instead. 

Many thanks 

[70s kid]

There have been quite a few posts recently where decoder pins have been pushed too far into the socket and due to poor insulation fitted by Hornby has resulted in the pins making contact with things they shouldn't. Check for pin clearances and if necessary add a bit of insulation tape to the chassis under the decoder position. No guarantee that this is the solution, but you have to start somewhere. 

Hi fishman and Chris, 

i fitted the decoder a cpurple of weeks ago and it was running fine DCC until now this buzz/humming. If there's an issue with the Hornby decoder pins I'll try to loosen the decoder and try the insulating tape. I'm relieved you reckon the decoder isn't blown as it starts to move before stopping after about an inch and the buzzing starts instead. 

Many thanks 

[Chrissaf]

70's, don't overlook Rog(RJ)'s suggestion to check free movement of the drive train. It is a valid point he made.