Alessio Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Although I've got a few Hornby 4 wheel coaches I'm not particularly keen on them. I'd love to create a couple of 4-wheel coaches similar to those used by the Middleton Railway which are converted from ex-SR PMVs. Photos below included from Facebook.Each is slightly different so exact spec/finish isn't important but I'd love to try and butcher somethig like this. The closest thing I can find in Hornby's range though is the Passenger Brake C, but I don't know that it would be suitable to start cutting up. ICan anyone suggest how I might go about this - suitable kits or models to use as a base to bash? Doesn't have to be replicas of those in the photos, just something on that basis - a rough, 4-wheel coach suitable for running with industrial tank engines.Cheers! IIn the photo below, the tank is behind, not on the roof as it looks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Surely you've answered your own question. You say you've got the coaches, you've supplied the photographs, all you need is some plasticard, a sharp knife and a steady hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 I would go with what WTD says however the coach dose have a continental look about it. Have you thought of looking on eBay for a cheap continental on. To start with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 For SR PMVs (Parcels and Miscelaneous Van) I think there is/ was a Ratio kit? Hornby Dublo/ Wrenn versions can be costly...but battered ones, maybe missing the opening doors, may go cheaper as collectors may not like them! 😉 Dapol do a "new" model PMV I think (probably without oening doors!). As a sideways idea, you could cut up the Tri-ang/ Hornby Bogie "Utility" Van (BIG PMV!) and fit to 4-wheel underframes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessio Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Hornby's Passenger Brake C is the closest thing I can see that they make but I don't have one - they're about £30 each on ebay so a little much for the basis of my first kit bash project. I may just resort to slicing that Lima CCT I mentioned but that isn't quite the right profile either. I like the idea of a kit but can't see the Ratio kit online - and couldn't find the Dapol one either? But thanks as I'd not thought of either of those options.Any further suggestions/help massively appreciated. Thanks to Sarah and WTD so far :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buz Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Hi AlessioParkside Dundas PC36 southern railway Ex SE & CR PMV might just be a good startits thirteen pounds seventy avalable to order on line.http://www.parksidedundas.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_SOUTHERN_RAILWAY.htmlGet yourself an Olfa P cutter it will make creating plank lines if you need to a lot easier and givesneat square cuts when used properly.regards John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Hornby's Passenger Brake C is the closest thing I can see that they make but I don't have one - they're about £30 each on ebay so a little much for the basis of my first kit bash project. I may just resort to slicing that Lima CCT I mentioned but that isn't quite the right profile either. I like the idea of a kit but can't see the Ratio kit online - and couldn't find the Dapol one either? But thanks as I'd not thought of either of those options.Any further suggestions/help massively appreciated.Thanks to Sarah and WTD so far :) The Dapol PMV is Ready To Run, and, I think, not very cheap either... The Parside kit would be good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessio Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 Hi all, Thanks again for your advice on this one. Now I have the time to invest, I think I'm going to order a Parkside kit. However, I believe it doesn't come with a chassis. Can anyone suggest where I might get a suitable 4-wheel chassis from? Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 I have made a dozen or more Parkside SR vans and I can confirm that the DO have a chassis in the kit plus wheels and bearings. You should be able to use the roof, floor and solebars more or less as - is but the ends and sides will require quite a bit of work. I did something similar to make a SECR 'Dance Hall' brake van using a Dapol GW guards van chassis and 1.5 Dapol SR Van roofs.(See my earlier post in 'Making plasticard wagons on other chassis' thread.) The Tanfield Railway have done something very similar with a couple of GWR Fruit 'D' vans.http://www.tanfield-railway.co.uk/carriages.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessio Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 Ah fantastic, thanks LC. I didn't realise that Tanfield had done likewise with Fruit Ds. I may have to make that a future project if this goes well! I haven't ordered anything yet but my plan had been to adapt the sides of the van when the kit arrives, before I build it. Then wasn't sure whether to spray each end, side and roof separately before assembly or whether to assemble and then spray.Also, what can I use as 'glass' for the windows? Some kind of acetate? Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Please let us seen the results when you have finished. It might encorage others to have a go. These little carriages would make a lovely accompanyment to the Hornby Peckett on a model of a preserved line. The old Tri-ang 'Davy Crockett' coaches had representations of the wrought iron fences that went across the balcony ends.Unfortunately these were moulded solid and so don't look quite right, but Scalelink do etched frets of wrought iron gates that might be adaptable. Sarah who contributes here will no doubt remember the old 'Swedish' Triang/Hornby 4 wheel coaches too. These had a passing resemblence to these balcony ended vehicles, unfortunately they are quite rare, and usually moulded in plain yellow plastic. Here is another coach that now lives at Marley Hill. It used to work in the Teeside Dorman Long Steel Works taking the managers round on inspections and so is a genuine industrial carriage./media/tinymce_upload/c58ae5c2c5a7e744853b8c1ce2e7e087.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Please let us seen the results when you have finished. It might encorage others to have a go. These little carriages would make a lovely accompanyment to the Hornby Peckett on a model of a preserved line. The old Tri-ang 'Davy Crockett' coaches had representations of the wrought iron fences that went across the balcony ends.Unfortunately these were moulded solid and so don't look quite right, but Scalelink do etched frets of wrought iron gates that might be adaptable. Sarah who contributes here will no doubt remember the old 'Swedish' Triang/Hornby 4 wheel coaches too. These had a passing resemblence to these balcony ended vehicles, unfortunately they are quite rare, and usually moulded in plain yellow plastic. >SNIPPED The "Wild West" coaches (Should that be "Passenger Cars"?) balcolnies were indeed solid! The "Swedish" coaches were used in quite a few "Starter" sets, Clockwork and Electric, and are almost entirely yellow plastic bodies (there were a couple of green ones it seems...). They actually have an interior, in brown, moulded as part of the chassis. The body being a one piece (yellow) moulding.... They do come up every now and then....we have a couple (at last) in our collection.... Parkside PMV kit... I have been working on one of these kits, also a Ks Kit of the CCT version. The Hornby Dublo / Wrenn / Dapol RTR models are also CCTs....the sides are the same as the PMVs though! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/76497-sarahs-projects/?p=2353285 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 There's always the blue box teams Henrietta - needs a lot of detailing though. Another possibility would be to look at a Parkside 009 kit possibly an Ashover Railway coach and fit it to a suitable standard gauge shassis. http://www.parksidedundas.co.uk/acatalog/pic_MPM1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessio Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 One further question: I'm going to buy Hornby wheels rather than using those in the kit. Which type are most appropriate - spoked, 3-hole, 4-hole or no-hole?Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 I think I recal that the SR PMV kit comes with 14mm coach wheels which means you should use the larger size. I don't know why you would reject the Parkside wheels, they are at least as good as Hornby's. They are metal wheels on metal pin point axle. I have not had any problems with the wheels in the kits myself, I think they may even be Romfords. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessio Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 Oh, okay, if they're good quality then I may as well leave them. I'd assumed they'd be plastic ones that might be a little less robust. Thank you! Another thing that's come to mind is the interior. It's not essential but it would be nice if I could model some form of interior for the coaches - ideally, an open coach with bench seating and an aisle. Is there a simple way to do this or am I being ambitious? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Oh, okay, if they're good quality then I may as well leave them. I'd assumed they'd be plastic ones that might be a little less robust. Thank you! Another thing that's come to mind is the interior. It's not essential but it would be nice if I could model some form of interior for the coaches - ideally, an open coach with bench seating and an aisle. Is there a simple way to do this or am I being ambitious?If these are simple bench type seats with no fany curves and not too many slats I'm sure you would have no trouble choppng up bits of plasticard to make them especially if you've done the sides! wills make a fairly thick planked material that may be of use. The bigest danger is bordom, it can be a bit tedious cutting all those bits to be of the correct size! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 I can confirm that the wheels in the current Parkside Kits are not plastic! They are Romford wheels, and run in brass bearings, all included in the kit. Quote from my "review" of the kit I am building...Romford metal disk wheels (Coach, 14mm type) and brass beraings are supplied, as are mountings for a Tri-ang Type MKIII Tension Lock Coupling. Some very early Parkside kits had plastic wheels, but that was some time ago now! 😉 By the way, I have just re-tested the link in my previous post.... It takes some time, but if left to run, it will get there, though you may have to scroll down after the photos have all loaded to get to the Parkside PMV kit....there are quite a few models on that thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessio Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 Thanks again all. I've just had a look at the pack instructions, and it states that I will need liquid plastic cement as well as a standard adhesive glue. I'd assumed that everything could just be glued. Am I best investing in some LPC just to make sure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Thanks again all. I've just had a look at the pack instructions, and it states that I will need liquid plastic cement as well as a standard adhesive glue. I'd assumed that everything could just be glued. Am I best investing in some LPC just to make sure? All the plastic parts will glue with Liquid Poly type plastic cement...just like any plastic kit. (I have used Revel Conta? liquid cement...in a blue plastic "bottle"...) The buffers are cast brass, and so you could use a glue such as UHU, bostick, etc. (or any gerneral purpose glue) to fit these...they are usually a tight fit in the buffer beam holes anyway.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessio Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 Will Liquid Plastic Cement work better than a standard glue, though? I've never used it before. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 The two Liquid Poly Cements that I have used with recent kits are Revell Contacta, and Humbrol Precision Poly. Both have metal "pipe" nozzles that deliver the glue (hopefull) where you want it. I find these types of glue easy to use. These are a sort of "half-way house" between plastic cement tubes ("gloopy", like the old Airfix Kit Glue) and the really liquid Plastic Cements or solvents like Plastic Weld, and Humbrol Liquid Poly that are applied by a brush, usually to the inside of a joint. These solvent types are very good, but can be tricky to get used to, as they lack the "gap filling" and "quick grab" of the thicker types. The parts need to be held together while the solvent is appied, and until it sets, without getting it on fingers or outside parts of th emodel... Various types of Plastic glue on a web page...A good overview on what is available,... http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/1213_1.html Some Other Poly Cements which I have had experience with.... Humbrol Precision Poly... http://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/precision-poly-cement-30ml-bottle.html Humbrol Liquid Poly... http://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/liquid-poly-28ml-bottle.html Humbrol Poly Cement... http://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/poly-cement-24ml-tube.html Revell Contacta... http://www.amazon.co.uk/Revell-39604-Contacta-Professional-Glue/dp/B01GRM02V6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 My personal favorite liquid cement is Slaters Mekpak https://slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/mekpak.php it is slightly gentler than some of the others like Plastic weld http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Adhesives/Methane-Based-Adhesives/Item/Plastic-Weld-Solvent-57ml/ITM5060 which is a bit more fierce.but I do use this also. All are brush applied with a small paint brush. My technique is to wet both surfaces to be glued and hold then together until th glue beging to bite (may take two attempts). Then I run some more glue along the inside of the joint allowing capillary action to take the glue into the joint. When using the stuff keep fingers well away fromthe joint or anywhere the glue might run otherwise you will end up with a nice emobossed finger print on your wagon. Also avoid getting any on the outside of your model as this can be noticeable just like ordinary tube glue. I also use mekpack to "hold" the brass wheel bearing in. I just fill the bearing hole with the glue and drop the bearing in. It doesnt actually stick the brass to the blastic but disolves he plastic enough to make a tight fit and wil hold for a few years certainly long enough for you to paint your wagon and put the wheels in. As to brass buffers I use superglue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 I use all the various polystyrene adhesives, including the Humbrol/Revell semi liquid types mentioned above, but for general purposes I use Slater's Mekpak. For tougher plastics I use EMA liquid which looks like Mekpak but is slightly stronger (It melts and joins a greater range of plastic materials and is recommended by some kit manufacturers for small detail parts) . For harder ABS type plastics I use Butanone liquid which is specialist for this type of material but will work on Polystyrene nearly as well. Mekpak, EMA and Butanone all come in little glass bottles, and need to be applied with a paintbrush. My 'favourite' trick is to knock a half full bottle over! Not a good move! I need to make a 'non-spill' holder for the bottle. The glue in little tubes contains fillers to make it a gel. This is OK for most polystyrene but can be messy and often leaves a poor joint. You must use all these in well ventilated areas. I do most of my kit building in the conservatory, with the windows open and with the door open in summer. Not only is it well ventilated but the light is good. I use 'superglue' for joining metal bits to the kit. I use Humbrol clearfix for fixing windows, but I have recently found that Resin W PVA glue also works well for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 > SNIPPED My 'favourite' trick is to knock a half full bottle over! Not a good move! I need to make a 'non-spill' holder for the bottle. >SNIPPED You must use all these in well ventilated areas. I do most of my kit building in the conservatory, with the windows open and with the door open in summer. Not only is it well ventilated but the light is good. I use 'superglue' for joining metal bits to the kit. I use Humbrol clearfix for fixing windows, but I have recently found that Resin W PVA glue also works well for this. I managed to knock over a bottle of Humbrol Liquid Poly....it got a Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 Tank Loco body on one side (it was on its side, but without the chassis, work in progress!). I didn't touch it, just pot it somewhere safe to dry off....it has "weathered" the paintwork in an interesting way! The self-healing cutting mat it was on has also reacted a bit.... Cleaning up...I moved really fast with the Paper Kitchen Towel! 😉 I also work with the windows, and usually the doors, open as well.... I have also used Superglue for metal parts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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