Advice on the Vulcan

[Andrew Thomson1707819853]

 

 

I realise many of you might say DON'T with the Airfix Vulcan, however I have been given one and would like to build it. I am aware there is some work involved but nothing, I believe, insurmountable. What I need to know, to display in a 'flying pose' is it just the tail 202 tailpipes that are required to be corrected or is there more I should think about (intakes were another thing but poss out of production?!). As I say, I am led to believe so far it is only these (obvious) areas that need correcting - is there anything else? Any advice would be helpful

[Oliver Hyett]

Unless just right there should be a small gap between the wings and along the leading edge.

[Dad Paul B]

Be prepared for a lot of filing and filling. This is quite a tough build. It has been commented that the Jet pipes are only suitable for either the Olympus 201 or 301 series (can't recall which off the top of my head) but are OK unless you want to be really detail oriented. I had no trouble with the intakes but the real problems were the tail cone - alignment and gaps were pretty awful and needed repeated applications of filler and heavy filing.

The wings will also need a lot of attention. First to file the roots and fitting surfaces as flat as possible and then agin filling the wing root gaps. Still, it does go eventually. Finally if you intend to use a stand the balance point is in the middle of the bomb bay doors which are quite thin and will require reinforcement (oh, the the underside panels will need some filling). This is an old tool and there are some interesting extras left over from previous versions - I wnet for the Blue Steel standoff weapon in its recess. This might be a little more tricky to mount on a stand if the weapon is not really secure. You will also need some alternative decals (the Freightdog Gods of Fire and Water set are good with several options including a Red Flag exercise scheme with Middle Stone and a Red-Brown camouflage underneath and loads of stencilling) which you don't get in the current boxing. Also at over 30 years old there can be quite a bit of flash.

I wouldn't say don't do it, but be prepared for a lot off work (don't use the mini pots of paint as these rarely seem to work well and in any case there is nowhere near enough to cover the huge area of those delta wings). Despite its many shortcomings you can get amazing results with it (I have seen some lovely examples at shows and there are a couple of threads in the forums and in the review section).

It does give a real sense of satisfaction when it is finished so enjoy it.

I have added a few pictures of mine below (and it is nowhere near the best I have seen).

/media/tinymce_upload/7638b4c47decf2e1197c19ef9318b517.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/7fbbb8098d212074265b0ff274402524.JPG

These used the freightdog decals and are for 617 Squadron in 1969.

Hope this helps.

Paul

[peebeep]

Freightdog still have the 201 and 202 type pipes in resin. If you do a bit of searching you might be able to find a set of Two Mikes intakes, they're almost certainly easier to work than trying to fill and sand the kit components. This is a kit that benefits from lashings of TLC - fill, sand, repeat etc etc. Also re-scribing the panel lines improves the appearance no end and unlike a lot of kits you have mainly flat surfaces to work on. For an in-flight pose I would beg, borrow or steal a stand from an Airfix/Heller Concorde, they are easily the best stands made for displaying large models.

[Andrew Thomson1707819853]

Thanks to all for the advice, much of what I thought already - certainly the intakes/exhausts are something I will try for

[tomo1984]

Been away from modeling for about 10 years and thought I would get back into the swing of things with the vulcan to the sky gift set. 

It's so badly made, parts miss shaped, loads  extra plastic on every part, parts not fitting together. 

Is this the standard of airfix kits nowerdays? Never had a problem before but I was making the kits with a picture of the model layed on old maps on the front or have I become grumpy in my old age? 

[Pretty Mediocre Modeller]

Welcome back to the modelling world Tomo,

 

Unfortunately you did not pick a very good kit to start with. The Vulcan was ok when new (though always difficult to put together), but now the tools are so worn you have all the flash around the parts to contend with. Please don't give up, try one of the newly tooled kits from Airfix, the amount of detail and fit of parts is so much better. If you like big Avro's why not try the new tool Lancaster, or if cold war jets are your thing try the Supermarine Swift?

[Ratch]

 And if you're into V-bombers the 2011 Valiant is a much better kit. Here's my build review...

http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/viewtopic.php?f=409&t=27408&hilit=valiant

 

If you can wait, Airfix are bringing out a Victor later this year and I was told they're considering re-tooling the Vulcan, though when....

[MalcJ]

Hope that I'm not out of place by revisiting this Forum, but I've been thrust back into modelling (after about 30+ years) when my son presented me with the Vulcan to keep me busy in my retirement.Getting as far as Mossieman with the build I also came to the conclusion that I needed 'professional guidance' and after reading these posts I also realise that my frustration at trying to 'fill the gaps' in this model is not necessarily due to my length of time away from the hobby.

However I have built to a reasonable stage where I am at the point of filling and then painting, I have opted for a wheels down kit with Blue Steel attached and will apply the colour scheme and squadron decals as on Dad Paul B's model.

I admit to being ignoranant of modern day modelling and I would appreciate advice on what is the best filler for gaps (I did get the tailfin and wings reasonably OK, but not so good on the intakes and fit for the Blue Steel bomb bay alternative) and getting to this stage of the build I also realised that the paint pots would not be fit for purpose and would also like to know what best to use to get to the wonderful finish shown on the images of Paul B's model?

[Kenneth ONeill]

Hope that I'm not out of place by revisiting this Forum, but I've been thrust back into modelling (after about 30+ years) when my son presented me with the Vulcan to keep me busy in my retirement.Getting as far as Mossieman with the build I also came to the conclusion that I needed 'professional guidance' and after reading these posts I also realise that my frustration at trying to 'fill the gaps' in this model is not necessarily due to my length of time away from the hobby.

However I have built to a reasonable stage where I am at the point of filling and then painting, I have opted for a wheels down kit with Blue Steel attached and will apply the colour scheme and squadron decals as on Dad Paul B's model.

I admit to being ignoranant of modern day modelling and I would appreciate advice on what is the best filler for gaps (I did get the tailfin and wings reasonably OK, but not so good on the intakes and fit for the Blue Steel bomb bay alternative) and getting to this stage of the build I also realised that the paint pots would not be fit for purpose and would also like to know what best to use to get to the wonderful finish shown on the images of Paul B's model?

{f/x} Industrial catering size can of worms creaks open{/end}

Filler is very much an individual choice; several kit makers (or sister companies) make an own-brand product, then there's Milliput (2-part epoxy putty), "Green Stuff" (from USA; acetone-based solvent putty) and its sister "White Stuff", some people swear by thick cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) doped with talc for wide gaps...

Personally my preference is solvent putty, and I choose whatever the Local Model Shop has for a decent price.

[Dad Paul B]

The Humbrol filler is OK (a little like polyfiller so sands easily but does go off), I am currently using Vallejo putty which is soft and easy to sand but sanding can pull some out of the gaps and require second applications.

Milliput is harder to work with as it is quite stiff and hard to sand. A lotof professionals swear by Mr Surfacer (available in many grades).

For the paint finish I recommend spray for the white (I used Tamiya extra fine white primer spray and humbrol acrylic gloss white spray). The upper surfaces were humbrol Medium Sea Grey and Dark Green satin acrylics (brushed on) which were a pain as the pigment and medium often separated while drying. I now favour vallejo acrylics. Keep experimenting until you find materials which work for you.

I also sprayed the varnish (humbrol acrylic cans - gloss). Just make sure you have brushed varnish over the decals if using spray cans as the solvents/propellants can attack them.

Good luck.

Paul

[Kenneth ONeill]

The Humbrol filler is OK (a little like polyfiller so sands easily but does go off), I am currently using Vallejo putty which is soft and easy to sand but sanding can pull some out of the gaps and require second applications.

Milliput is harder to work with as it is quite stiff and hard to sand. A lotof professionals swear by Mr Surfacer (available in many grades).

For the paint finish I recommend spray for the white (I used Tamiya extra fine white primer spray and humbrol acrylic gloss white spray). The upper surfaces were humbrol Medium Sea Grey and Dark Green satin acrylics (brushed on) which were a pain as the pigment and medium often separated while drying. I now favour vallejo acrylics. Keep experimenting until you find materials which work for you.

I also sprayed the varnish (humbrol acrylic cans - gloss). Just make sure you have brushed varnish over the decals if using spray cans as the solvents/propellants can attack them.

Good luck.

Paul

Milliput can be worked wet (literally with tap water) until it goes off, so you've a couple of hours to work it right into the joints.

[MalcJ]

Thanks to everyone for advice on this build and sorry it's taken time to respond with thanks (other duties called I'm afraid).I now have the time to restart, feeling happier as to how to tackle this mammoth (for me) aircraft.

I'm building on the basis of Blue Steel attached, undercarriage down and crew entry hatch closed. I've weighted the nose and it now stands firm and steady and ready for the next stage: filling, filing and painting. My aim will be a finished 'plane to remend me of my time in the Control Tower at Scampton in the early 60's

Not sure though if FR probe should be fixed (memory does not stretch to this) with missile carried, although when I visited recently, a painting in the 617 crew room does show it this way.

[Kenneth ONeill]

@MalcJ - I'm not sure either way about the IFR probe myself. What I can say for sure is that the nose terrain following thimble and RWR tail boxes should be removed for a Blue Steel machine.

[Timmas]

Not sure though if FR probe should be fixed (memory does not stretch to this) with missile carried, although when I visited recently, a painting in the 617 crew room does show it this way.

Hi Malc

I'v recently returned to modelling after about 30 years tooo...and coincidentally my first model was also the Vulcan. Mine is also Blue Steel and is finished in anti-flash white with low vis markings).

My kit went togethr ok, I didn't have too many problems with the intakes, but had a devil of a job with the wing-to-fuselage fit; it just didn't seem to look right and needed a lot of filling and sanding to get the curvature correct, not to mention fill the gap. I used a combination of plasticard fillets and Perfect Plastic Putty. The port side joint is completely invisible but the starboard side isn't as good. I think most of that is down to my lack of skill which niggles me a bit tbh.

Anyway I also originally kept the probe in place but the plane sits on my desk and I've snapped the thing off twice, so I've decided to remove it altogether and repair the paintwork. The probe was fitted to some of the later early white Vulcans (if you follow what I mean) but if you're going for a camo scheme I think the probe should probably be included. The best advice I can give is to find as many photos as you can and follow your instinct.

Good luck with it. I'm sure you'll do a great job of it :-)

I plan to upload a couple of photos of mine once I've mounted it nicely.