New DCC end to end layout

[Gary steel]

Hello. I am new to the world of model railways. With limited space available I have opted for a set shelf layout,with flexi track to join up to my run around at a later stage. My Majestic DCC set is on the way along with several track peices to make my siding and "smokey joe" which I plan to chip. My question is, will it be too difficult to operate a small 0-4-0 as a shunter via the e-link system or should I consider getting an Elite controler? I also plan on installing a turn table with multiple engine sheds later on.. would I need a second controler for the TT (non dcc) ?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[poliss]

The Elite doesn't care what type of loco you have. It just knows there's a decoder in it and operates it in the same way it operates any other loco.

You can control the turntable with a loco decoder or an analogue controller.

You will need to isolate the turntable tracks as I remember to avoid short circuits. There are plenty of discussions about how to do it elsewhere on the forums.

[RB51]

Hi Gary - welcome to the forum. I would recommend you start off with the e-link and see how you get on. The Elite is not a cheap option and although more capable than the e-link the sort of functionality you are asking for does not make the expenditure worthwhile. Let us know how you get on. R-

[Fishmanoz]

Welcome to the forums Gary.  There should be no problem operating your shunter from the screen in RM, so definitely start with just the eLink and see how you go.

 

Your TT idea may be quite complicated.  Do you really mean you intend to operate the TT itself and the locos on it DC, or just the TT operation not the locos?  If the former, it would be a little complex given you cannot connect both DC and DCC to the same track.  You would have to drive your locos into a section which is isolated by IRJs at each end then have a break before make switching arrangement to swap the power from DCC to DC for locos approaching the TT and from DC to DCC for those driving out.

[Gary steel]

From what I have read and understand, I would need an accessory decoder and a loco decoder to rotate the turntable in DCC. My concern is the cost. Would it be possible to simply use a DC controler to rotate,while using the e-link to operate the loco?

[Yelrow]

Gary, hi, you dont need an accessory decoder, for the turntable, simply a basic loco decoder, which is given a number, eg 22, or 4 digit if you prefer. Railmaster operates it. john

[Chrissaf]

Gary,

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This Hornby web site page may help you to visualise the concept of using a loco decoder to control a TT. The instructions given there tell you to remove the rail contacts. Some have done this most successfully, some have regretted it. There are posts on this forum that have given better ideas for how to modify the Hornby R070 TT, I suggest searching them out before committing to any particular conversion technique. One thing is common though, they all use the loco decoder to perform the turning control.

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https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides/turntable-conversion

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 I hear you asking the question. "Why do I need to modify the TT rail contacts for use with DCC?" this web site may help to explain the rationale for the requirement.

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http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC%202.html#Turntables

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Very simplistically it is because in DCC, the track power is always on. In DC you drive the loco onto the TT bridge then turn your DC controller to zero before turning the TT. Then only reapply track power to the TT bridge to drive the loco off when it is located at the new exit point. The key comment being that in DC, the track power is off during the turning action, whereas in DCC the track power is on during the turning action.

[96RAF]

My TT is dcc from a rail point of view, with manual polarity correction via a DPDT switch, but hand driven for positioning at present, with a view to motorising later. So you can mix and match these operations as it were.

The intended (and previously used in trials) motor control was a simple dc motor/gearbox controlled via a sprung loaded (on)-off-(on) DPDT switch to select direction and cause rotation.

[Gary steel]

Thank you all very much for your help. I feel like a child counting down the days to Christmas (waiting for my delivery)

[Fishmanoz]

Gary, there is no reason to not run your TT motor with a standard DC controller if you do not want to run it via a loco decoder.  But you do most certainly have to provide isolation between the rotating bridge and track power by one of the means Chris has given you reference too and for the reason he gives.

[Gary steel]

My first Hornby model..The Majestic train set has arrived, along with a beautiful B17/2 "Serlby Hall" and a tiny Railroad 0-4-0 "smokey joe" (has been DCC fitted, may need a smoother running motor at a later stage) as well as 8 sets of points,straights and flexible track to keep me busy in the shunting yard as the double oval will not be used at this time.

Some quick "free fixes" I implemented

I used metal staples bent to shape as dcc clips on the extra points ( 48 hours running trains over them and still no problems)

I modified the insulated frog by soldering a tiny copper wire to the inside of the short section of "dead rail" and linked it to exposed track via a hole on the underside of the point. This solved the problem of the 0-4-0 stalling at 15mph over every point on the layout..very frustrating!

DCC is amazing and the power of the elink is fantastic fun.

After a few tweaks of the cv's limiting the cruise speed to 37 mph to eliminate the humming noise form the A1's motor.

Money very well spent. And I fear a lot more to be spent in the future.

Next project is to build the 2600 x 600mm base board.

Cheers 

[Chrissaf]

Congratulations Gary on resolving your own issues i.e the frog mod for example (see comment further below).

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Also congratulations on getting eLink / RM functional without additional help.

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First time I've come across staples being used as DCC clips, only time will tell what the longer term success of that approach will be. If they do prove unreliable in the longer term, then an easy fix to replace them. Never held a pukka Hornby DCC clip in my hand, but aren't they made of springy steel. Thus maintaining firm contact pressure.

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I modified the insulated frog by soldering a tiny copper wire to the inside of the short section of "dead rail" and linked it to exposed track via a hole on the underside of the point. This solved the problem of the 0-4-0 stalling at 15mph over every point on the layout..very frustrating!

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Any chance of a close up photo of the mod. It may help offer a solution to other users with this 0-4-0 issue, as it comes up quite a lot on the forum.

[poliss]

If you have feeds after the points you don't need point clips. People have reported points getting very hot even when using Hornby point clips. Staples will be made of an inferior metal and could cause problems with overheating in the future.

[Gary steel]

So far no overheating with the staples.

Just a quick edit to previous post, the wire is soldered to the wing rail and connected to their respective main rails behind the frog.

Images to follow