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Old Bob

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I us Mek-Pak the current formulation is a little weaker tham other liquid polystyrene cenent so does not cause so much damage. I would also apply it wit a number 1 brush. You may need several applications but try to keep it away from visible surfaces as it tends to mark.

 

Alternatively Methyl Ethyl Ketone (which some suppliers sell as polystyrne cement) has a stronger "bite"

 

The nice thing about liquid polystyrene cenent is that you can hold the bits together gently and brush over the join and it soaks in.

 

I also use this to build plastic kits.

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I doubt if you will find any polysyrene type cements will work. I have experimented with may glues and polystyrene cement, superglue and PVA are all but useless. Get hold of Wilko two pack epoxy resin glue. It will stick almost all plastics and metals and takes quite a while to set  (about 30 mins) allowing for any repositioning if required. I use it to permanently fix steps, vac pipes and any other bits. Use it "very sparsely" and leave it to set . DO NOT prod and poke it to see if it had dried. The other glues have the following faults. Polystyrene cement is not suitable for the plastics used by Hornby on their locos. PVA is not strong enough and the joint will break eventually. Superglue may work but will leave white blooming that will need repainting. The two pack needs only a tiny smear and is extremely strong. My other choice of glues is for number and nameplates ONLY and that is Pritt stick. It suitabley sticks the plates very firmly to all my locos and any excess can be washed off with a wet paint brush gently rubbed over any spread under the nameplate leaving no marks.

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I doubt if you will find any polysyrene type cements will work. I have experimented with may glues and polystyrene cement, superglue and PVA are all but useless. Get hold of Wilko two pack epoxy resin glue. It will stick almost all plastics and metals and takes quite a while to set  (about 30 mins) allowing for any repositioning if required. I use it to permanently fix steps, vac pipes and any other bits. Use it "very sparsely" and leave it to set . DO NOT prod and poke it to see if it had dried. The other glues have the following faults. Polystyrene cement is not suitable for the plastics used by Hornby on their locos. PVA is not strong enough and the joint will break eventually. Superglue may work but will leave white blooming that will need repainting. The two pack needs only a tiny smear and is extremely strong. My other choice of glues is for number and nameplates ONLY and that is Pritt stick. It suitabley sticks the plates very firmly to all my locos and any excess can be washed off with a wet paint brush gently rubbed over any spread under the nameplate leaving no marks.

Hi Vespa

 

I find it depends n the loco (and possibly when it was made) most of the newer ones like the GWR Star or Railroad Couty (both types) and ex Dapol Castle will take liquid poly cement. graned you may need a couple of attempts.

 

Having said that the older Triang plastic is a lot less forgiving and the bond is weak. Also thee is no hope with the rubbery or slightly flexible plasics used on underframes.

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I have just succesfully detailed 3 Britannias and noticed that the latest versions have the front steps already fitted. I tried using poly cement on the draincocks but the following day came away so went back to two pack. Perhaps these models are now being made in different factories with different plastics if poly cement works on some but not others. I think I will stay with my tried and tested method just in case.

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I have just succesfully detailed 3 Britannias and noticed that the latest versions have the front steps already fitted. I tried using poly cement on the draincocks but the following day came away so went back to two pack. Perhaps these models are now being made in different factories with different plastics if poly cement works on some but not others. I think I will stay with my tried and tested method just in case.

Ah that explains it, I think the drain coxks oe cyliners might be that flexible plastic I mentioned.The ones that came with m 42XX seemed to be but fortunately they are a tigt fit - just hope smoke deflectors are not mae of the same stuff.

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