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Strange squealing noise


Moomintroll

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Hi,

I just converted Gordon (the big blue engine from thomas the tank engine) for my son to DCC. He works absolutly fine except the for some pick up connector issues between the train and tender which were their in DC mode when the tender cover

is off but the moment I put the cover on the tender it runs then starts making a loud squealing noise and seems to slows down. I'm wondering if anyone knows what this might be? Since changing to DCC the cover is much tighter to get on as I suspect in fixing

one wire I mealted an internal bit as it was almost imposible to get to it with the iron...

Thanks
M.
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M,
I have read reports of very occasional squealing/humming/grinding with dcc conversions but this is typically only with old decoders.

If something is "tight" that use not be then this doesn't sound good.

can you run the loco on dcc with

just the bare chassis? this will let you know if there is any physical interference.

Greg
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The squeal must be a symptom of friction therefore find the friction and eliminate it. Thats what is making the noise and is slowing down and stopping Gordon. Get your dremel out and make more room in the tender or resite the chip. Push it and tape it

into a void where it cant touch anythong else
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Dont know if this helps but I converted James to DCC and had the same issue, he would make a sqealing sound and slow down.

I worked it out that the wheels are actually slipping on the track and causing him to slow. Just give the wheels and track

a clean and you should be ok, with any luck its as simple as that.

Gary
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  • 6 months later...
I dont have DCC, I have DC, but I resolved the squeeling/screeching problem. I have the old ringfield flying scotsman (The really old one) which is tender drive. I placed a little 3-in-1 light machine oil into the shaft which has the the springs in. Not

too much, just enough to run down the inside. I also dropped some oil next to it where the motor pole thing comes out a little. It stopped screeching about 5 minutes later. Hoped it helped.
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It's best to use proper plastic compatible oil designed for model locos and not 3-In-One which may cause damage to plastics. Mineral oils can dry out leaving residue which can gum up the works.
When you say "the shaft which has the spring things in",

do you mean where the motor brushes go?
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i had the exact same issue with a 08 class. It was due to where i put the decoder. When i popped the loco shell back on, it pushed the decoder in to the motor, which in turn meant that the motor was not precisely positioned any more. Take the body off

again, hopefull the motor will move back in to place and the noise will stop.

Just be very careful where you place the decoder (and dont use that full jacket they supply)

Paul
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  • 5 years later...

Hornby ringfield take off outer train shell carefully and clean parts with cotton bud and methylated spirits which will get rid of any old greasy buildup through years (if taking apart cogs etc... always remember how they go back take a picture). Once cleaned down use 3 in 1 with a pin (tiniest droplet) and add to the moving parts. Do not use lots of oil and remember not to oil conductive plates etc... i aint no pro but clean oiled train = runner. TRIAL AND ERROR WHATS TO LOSE THINGS CAN BE REPLACED

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Rod, welcome to the forums. Not quite sure why you are replying to a 3 year old post? 

 

Also, you suggest using 3 in 1 oil. Just about every post on here on lubrication, and there are literally hundreds at least, says not to use 3 in 1 oil.  You should use an oil designed for model railways, or a very light sewing machine oil. 

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For Rod - 3 - in - 1 is NOT a lubricant, it is a penetrant!

It can attack plastics, and eventually dries out into a gluey mess.

Use proper light sewing machine oil, or purpose sold loco oil!

Do not use WD40, either, for the same reasons!

(and as Fishy asked,- why are you answering an ancient post?)

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