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Programming track questions


Ullswater

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Dear All

I am in the process of building a DCC layout in my garage loft room.  I am using the Elite with Railmaster on Windows 10.

I have a siding which I have allocated as the programming track.  I am planning to use the method as outlined in Brian Lambert's website here (second diagram):

http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC.html#Programming

I had some questions about this.

(1) Brian warns "CAUTION Never allow a loco to be driven into the 'Programming section' with the selection switch in the Programming position. Possible damage to the console may possibly result!" - is this a real risk with the Elite?

(2) I was thinking of replacing the DPDT switch with a DPDT relay, controlled from a spare accessory decoder port via Railmaster.  Would there be any problems with this?

(3) I'd like to have an LED showing the status of the programming track.  Could anybody recommend how to do this?

Many thanks for any input

Ben

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1) Absolutely this is a real risk, not just with an Elite but ANY DCC controller model and brand. I would go as far as to say that using the term 'risk' is an understatement.

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Personally (and it is only a personal view), I would always recommend not using part of the existing laid track (i.e. siding) for programming. Too much risk of something going wrong or programming failure. There are a huge number of posts on this forum about CV's not being read or not being written to. Many of the problems (some but not all) can be traced back to the way in which the programming track is physically connected. I do however acknowledge the advantage that a multi-wheeled, multi-axle loco doesn't need to be re-railed on to a completely separate bit of track.

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This is my programming track piece. It is portable and can be put away when not needed. As it is plugged into my Elite just when needed (via a couple of banana sockets mounted into my baseboard support timber), it gives the cleanest electrical connection.

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/media/tinymce_upload/bfc760da7e913f0597c2920211564f42.JPG

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2) Given the answer to 1) above. I would want the position of the switch to be totally manually controlled to completely eliminate the possibility of the DPDT contacts not being thrown.

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3) If you mean an indicator that just shows whether the siding is switched to the Track or Programming Elite output. Certainly doable. Instead of a toggle DPDT switch, use a rotary Triple Pole (or more poles) switch. Then wire an LED & resistor to the third pole such that the LED lights when the switch is in the programming position. You need the third pole for electrical isolation, as wiring the LED in some way to a DPDT Toggle will most likely interfere with the low power programming digital signals. It is essential that any switch provides a 'break before make' connection. Some switch arrangements are 'make before break' and would briefly short the main track and programming track together as the switch is thrown, long enough to damage the controller.

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/media/tinymce_upload/7de58e9a1a665feb27474244db9c2a9c.jpg

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Thanks Chris for the very comprehensive and useful answer.

I would very much like my programming track to be part of my layout as the neatness appeals to me.  The very real risk of damaging my Elite certainly gives me pause for thought however.

It seems then that the more complicated final programming track solution which Brian Lambert suggests, with an isolating section, might be my best bet.

I wondered what you thought about this solution and whether there are any downsides?  It would fit well in my layout.

Regards

Ben

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Having only now (past my post edit time window) looked at the link you provided to Brian's drawings. If I was using a siding, I would definitely be following the recommendation of drawing 3 to include an additional isolating section of track to protect against accidental switch position errors.

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PS - Brian is a contributor on this forum too.....

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Thanks very much Chris.  I think I will proceed in that way.  

I think I will also try and automate control of the programming track using a 4PDT relay, which I could then control using Railmaster voice control.

I'll report back here as to how I get on.

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@Ullswater

It is only a personal opinion of course but the combination of a siding and a programming track seems rather over complicated for something that generally speaking, will not be used that often.  I much prefer the type of system that Chris showed in his first post and in fact that is similar to the one I use, apart from the fact I have normal buffers on mine.

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I use my Hornby rolling road as a programming track in addition to a running track by way of a DPDT switch of the ON-OFF-ON configuration. (PROG - OFF - RUN).

 

The centre off means I can isolate it and the fact it is a rolling road means I never have the drive half way on scenarion.

 

Any downside - yes the DCC signal can be degraded unless I push down on the loco during programming, as it is sent through the sliding ball bearing wheel supports.

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 When I was given a Mallard anniversary model as a retirement gift it came with a length of gold rail. decided it would make a goo prog track. So I mounted it on a separate board which sits on a pull out drawer. So I can program with the loco in front of me whilst I sit at the console, GaugeMaster DCC. It works well and I have to date had NO problems with it.

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