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Basics of dcc, idiots format


pincher

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Hello all, what do you need if building a oo dcc layout, i cant seem to find a idiots guide to whats needed,

ie i will be going down the elink and railmaster pack as i also love playing on the laptop

but wasnt sure what else would be needed ie power,controllers etc as im only use to the old days ie put 12v to the track and off the loco goes

 

Thanks Dave

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If you are going for eLink and RailMaster, these will provide the Power and Control aspects (with your laptop of course).  The only other items you need to get you are started will be some Track and Trains with Decoders fitted.

This can then get far more sophisticated but the above will get you started.  Come back if you need more specific ideas or help but in any case, let us know how you get on.

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Apart from the elink and Railmaster software you will need a PC or laptop, some track, a loco and a decoder to fit in the loco if it hasn't already got one fitted.  There are some sets available which contain everything you need.

Note that a DCC ready loco does NOT have a decoder already installed, it has a socket into which you can plug a decoder.  DCC fitted models DO have a decoder installed.

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Hi Dave

Probably the best and least expensive starting point is to buy a train set with railmaster and elink included.

If you go to the shop at the top of the screen you will see that Hornby only currently have the Western Master set available.

However Hattons still have the Majestic set available for £230.

Just copy and paste the link.

 

http://www.hattons.co.uk/60275/Hornby_R1172_e_Link_Majestic_train_set_with_A1_Pacific_Peppercorn_Class_in_Experimental_blue_/StockDetail.aspx

 

I and many others started with this set and grew from there.

Other than the laptop you don't need anything else to get you started.

 

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Dave, Good Luck and I hope it all works out for you.  

Please keep us informed and could I suggest that while you wait for your deliveries, you read the 2 Locked Threads at the top of the RailMaster section of this Forum, which take you step by step how to get started with RailMaster.

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Just to add on... I bought The Majestic set myself, as my 1st foray into the DCC world. Absolutely the best decision! 😉

It comes with a whole load of tracks and 2 trains. It's running beautifully! Now I am in the process of adding more track and complicating the layout with reverse loops and point motors. And also upgrading the default decoder chips to sound decoders.

In buying track - it looks like it may be cost effective to buy a whole train set rather than just individual track pieces... but your mileage may vary, depending on your layout design.

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Just to repeat the link in Chrissafs' post this video is very informative and not too technical. I'm newish to DCC and watched the video in 30 minute segments over a week. Some sections need to be replayed before it sinks in! There's also a follow up tutorial video -just as long - covering more advance DCC but best to learn to walk before running. I also joined a local MRC and found them to be very helpful.

Roy

PS Although published recently I believe the video is several years old as there are references to DCC steam loco sounds "becoming available soon."

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  • 3 months later...

Hi 

You're correct, the original link doesn't work!  But IMO you haven't missed much, as there is loads to watch and one or two parts have misleading errors in the video. To much chat etc! IMO.

If you plan to buy a DCC train set then everything will be in the box.

If you plan to go via the DIY approach then of course you'll need the Railmaster software and either an eLink or Elite DCC system.  When purchasing separate items ensure any power track sections or plug in power clips are designated for use on DCC. The conventional DC ones have an internal capacitor that MUST be removed if used on DCC. This is fairly simply to do, but if buying new avoid conventional DC power items Ensure they are DCC ones.

For DCC to work correctly as intended you will need to overcome the self isolating feature of Hornby points.  Either use two Hornby Electro point clips per point item R8232 or provide rail feeds of the correct polarity after the point. Then a loco stabled in a siding and the point controlling that siding is set against it can still be be moved plus all the lights and if sound fitted the sounds remain working.

 

Remember new locos all come with a default address number of 3, ideally you should change this to something else once the loco is proved to run ok. The only time a new loco will be supplied with an address other than the default 3 is where two DCC  locos are supplied in the same set. Then one will be 3 while the other is usually altered by the manufacturer to 2 or 4.

 

Manly do enjoy DCC, it's certainly the future of the hobby to date.  Bit like changing from clockwork to electric power was in the early/middle of the last century.

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Many thanks for that new link. Chris

Flashbang, thank you for your advice, too.  I am slowly getting to grips with DCC, , having bought four locos and an elink/railmaster setup a while ago, and am slowly putting down enough track to hopefully be able to run something in the near future. I was hoping the video might give me some useful information without me having to keep pestering you guys with silly questions.

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Just be aware that in the video the presenters are talking complete rubbish with regard to the loco addressing range on the Hornby Select. I'm afraid, on that particular topic, the two presenters are the 'blind leading the blind'.

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