basic question on R070 turntable

[mjb1961]

Hi ,,,,,Why don't you just advise the op Steve ,to convert the HORNBY TT the way HORNBY state on this website ,I've got my HORNBY TT set up that way and apart from the split ring affecting my sound locos it is perfectly fine ,,,,,mjb

[Fishmanoz]

RDS, just checked out your link and it's deja Vue all over again with exactly the same discussion now as 30 months ago.  And it reminds me it was Blackbird who made the modified inlet track, thought it was.

 

Why not use the Hornby method mjb?  Simply really, first you have to butcher your TT by removing the bridge contacts, then its more complicated because you have to power all of your outlet tracks.

[PJ_model_trains]

How frustrating it is for us all that Hornby have not made a DCC TurnTable. 

 

I read over the messages but like the turn table itself the conversations just go round and round.

 

Looking at the image, top view, from item for sale page, I can see the contacts that connect entry/exit track to the bridge. I have no idea what the underside looks like. (maybe someone who has one that is not fitted down and not butchered could photograph the underside of the TT)

 

I can visualise the split ring system for supplying the current but, bare in  mind I have not seen, held or been able to see one of these, I ask, is it not possible to provide power to the split ring, remove the contacts at the ends of the bridge that comes into contact with the small sections of track around the turn table and provide the power to the track, line in and line out's independantly. So that every section or track and the bridge is live, either L/N or N/L, without contacts that can cause short circuits.

 

I am sure you guys who know more than me on this subject, will have thought this out, and from knowledge or experience can confirm whether it can be done or not, with butchery as necessary so that continuous power is made to the bridge so that sound and lights work at all times.

[steve_gleghorn]

 Thank you to everyone who has replied on this subject. I have isolated each in/out track with isolating fish plates and i will noe attempt to connect DCC to the bridge slip ring and DCC to each in/out track when I can summon up the energy to take the TT away from the layout. Getting the isolating fishplate ( plastic) to fit is a PITA

 

thanks once again

[St1ngr4y]

 ........... Getting the isolating fishplate ( plastic) to fit is a PITA

 

thanks once again

That's not where it should go 🤐.

[Silver Shiney]

I hope I'm posting in the right section of the forum, humble apologies if I'm not.

 

Having now bought one of these turntables (and am mightly disappointed at how toy-like it is, has anyone managed to blend it in to their layout to make it look as though it ought to be there?  

It seems to me that the "blanks" for outlet tracks would have to be cut off, thus ruining the item for potential layout changes in the future, but they're so high off the "ground" that I struggle to see how they can be effectively disguised.

I'm beginning to wonder if I should just relegate it to the fiddle yard...

[Ruffnut Thorston]

It should be possin]ble to sink the base into the "ground", or build up the ground around the TT.

 

As for detailing, I have used parts from an Airfix/ Dapol Turntable Kit, which makes up into an "Over-Girder" type TT, which doesn't need a deep well, as with the "Undier-Girder" type like the PECO Kit.

 

Unfotunately nothing can be done (easily) about the Geneva Gear drive (Moves in jerks) or the noise of the motor (thogh the newer motor may(?) be quiter than the X.04 based one in mine!

 

/media/tinymce_upload/523bb62d77d2ffeae0632f0092f1a9cf.JPG

 

OR....PECO Bridge Sides!

 

/media/tinymce_upload/35c0a82994c067f5a4c84ceb9df825c0.JPG

 

http://modelrailwaysandroadszone.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=329

[mjb1961]

Hi Silver Shiney ,,,,,I managed to submerge my HORNBY TT into the board. basically drew around the TT ,cut it out with a jigsaw ,screwed a square peice of board a bit larger than the hole to the underneath ,I've got 12mm mdf baseboard,when the TT was dropped in it needed packing up a bit ,also I done away with the little exit tracks that you get with the turntable and used r601s ,modified a bit to get them in the right position ,it's a bit of messing about but you can manage it ,once it's in and up and running satisfactory you can blend in the black edge with ballast ,someone gave me a tip ,masking tape over the black edge and then you can pva ballast to it ,in the end you can get a good result and just as important that silly ramp /incline onto the bridge which looks rubbish and no where near prototypical and just causes derails ,you should be able by dropping it into the board produce a smooth transition on and off the bridge ,,,,

PS ,,,,,meant to say I did convert mine to dcc ,,,,,,,mjb

[St1ngr4y]

Could you not just cover them with pieces of card coloured grey?

Ray

[Rog RJ]

Some people have recessed the turntable into the baseboard.

[PJ_model_trains]

I have just ordered the R070 from Hattons, £64.

 

Not a Black Friday deal but still a good price, it was £66 on eBay but at £68 with P&P I am happier to deal with a reputable company I trust. 

 

I will not get to start fitting it until the new year but, I will take photographs of it when it arrives, particularly the underside so that we have images on the forum to refer to. 

[PJ_model_trains]

I have considered the options mentioned regarding getting the R070 TT to work with DCC and favour Ray's method as it allows loco's with sound and light to work (for most of it's rotations)

 

Hopefully the images when added here will help us to see more clearly what is involved and what the underside is actuallly like.  😉

[Silver Shiney]

Many thanks for the replies, folks.  I particularly like Sarah's suggestion of using the walls from the Dapol kit - far better looking than the very flimsy wire fence supplied (which got hopelessly bent as I removed the whole thing from the box - whose bright idea was it to tape them to the outside of the inner packet?).  It will be a while before I'm ready to model that section of the layout but I will report back on how I get on in due course.

[Silver Shiney]

Thanks, mjb, and apologies for the delay in responding (it would be helpful if the forum sent an email to posters to say a new reply had been put up).

 

Because I'd already fixed the baseboard down, and the TT will be very close the house wall,  cutting out a hole to recess the TT isn't an option for me.

 

I'm considering using plasticene to cover the unused rail mounts etc, and afix some sort of ground cover on top of that.

[Silver Shiney]

Well, I've finally got round to doing some more work on this.  I bought some air-drying modelling clay from Hobby craft (£3.95) and smoothed it in to all the recesses, and down to the baseboard.  As it dried, it curled up at the edges and cracked, just like a dried-up river bed.  Total waste of time and money.

 

Next plan is to print out some brickwork, and paste it to some thin card (1 cm high for the main part of the turntable, and 2cm for the motor cover, and then glue it to the surrounds and backfill with (probably) Polyfilla.