olly Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 just got the 40th anniversary HST pack and have two hornby DCC decoders and the lights in the cab come on as well as the headlight in whichever one is the leading Power car . Can this be turned off ? would I need to use a four function decoder ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff2nd Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 It can't be turned off. You would need to physically disconnect it inside, but this would mean that you could not use it if you wanted it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olly Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 It can't be turned off. You would need to physically disconnect it inside, but this would mean that you could not use it if you wanted it.thanks ff2nd think i will leave it as it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Not sure why you think they can't be turned off. Head and tail lights are turned on and off by F0, interior probably by F1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Would not there be some instructions with the model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olly Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 the instructions doesn't mention DCC or the lights . having problems with this HST set its the 40th year pack .the DCC decoder in the power with the motor in is getting very hot. I think it's burnt out one chip . I have tried several different decoders hornby and backmann the all get hot after a short period of running. The locomotive runs very well apart from that . Not sure what to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 I wrote to customers care a few years ago pointing out that having the lights on in the driving cab was not really correct and was told (by Kenn, I think) that they would take note for future releases. Seems like nothing has changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 If a decoder is getting hot and burning out then there is wiring fault on that car, which needs investigating either by sending it back or if out of warranty by use of a meter across the pickups to the pcb connections. standard fault finding rules apply - each wheel side pickup should be continuous to its marked pcb connection. Each pcb connection should go to its lighting and motor in a motor car. maybe if out of warranty you could post a photo of the pcb and the connections from the pickups, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olly Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 It's brand new but I will post a picture tomorrow morning as I have the body off for fitting the decoder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 As it has a fault and is new it should go back as faulty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Note though that decoders do get very warm to the touch in normal operation. If they actually burn out, they no longer operate and it's usually one or two of the 4 big black rectangular bridge rectifier diodes at the connector end of the PCB that will be destroyed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olly Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 I have tested the locomotive with a multimeter with the buzzer setting Everything seems to be okay no all the pickups go to the correct places are not crossed over or anything like that I also tested the DCC socket and only pin one and five are connected together . if I'am correct this is the motor connections so they would be connected ? I can't see anything the matter with it nothing touching where it shouldn't or anything faulty . I have given it a quick test run on analogue and it seems to perform better than with DCC . going to try longer on analogue just to see if it gets warm. the decoder fitted it was getting warm on the top of the body I have never had this before with any locomotive or decoderI have taken some pictures of the circuit board to see if anyone else can spot anything/media/tinymce_upload/67f9a52f1cb86b7fdb0dba2e78ee327e.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/1f153c15054b3dfb60eb51aff04ae339.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/695f187b8a9ed94169c53cb89f303198.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olly Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 I have done some more testing when running on dc the loco gets just ever so slightly warm .when running on DCC the decoder gets quite warm this is with a new decoder .the body gets warm to the touch on the roof I may have to speak to Hornby when they reopen in the new year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Just release those two cross head screws and ease the pcb up to see if there is any chance (or evidence) of a decoder pin touching the loco chassis. If so a suitable piece of insulating tape may help. Also while the pcb is up look for any stray solder bridges or wire whiskers causing problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 The bridge rectifier diodes are immediately behind the left side of the red wire loop. Is this where it is getting hot? It would seem to indicate the motor is drawing current near the operating limit of the decoders, so may be something amiss with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olly Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 I will check the bridge rectifiers and pcb when I run the HST again tomorrow . The odd thing is the power car runs very well it runs very smooth and quiet no noise form the motor if the top of the body didn't get warm with the decoder fitted you wouldn't know there's wrong with it I'am just concerned about the decoder getting hot as eventually I want to fit sound thanks for all the help so far 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 If you are thinking TTS, it handles more current than an 8249 so should run cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olly Posted December 31, 2016 Author Share Posted December 31, 2016 Just done some more testing with the HST this morning and the actual PCB and bridge rectifiers do not get warm. the motor doesn't get hot either. I think that it was the decoder that I had stuck to the circuit board making the PCB warm , there is nothing touching the metal chassis and no shorts across the pins on the socket. it's just the decoder getting quite warm especially after a long run it gets really hot when I was using Hornby chip wrapped in tape it was enough to melt the tape so it came off. the motor doesn't get hot either. how usual is it for DCC decoder to get warm when running I can't say I have noticed it on any other of my models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olly Posted December 31, 2016 Author Share Posted December 31, 2016 I have moved the decoder to the side of the chassis so the PCB won't get warm hopefully the metal of the chassis will help to dissipate the heat . Going to see how it goes for a bit then if I have any problems I will give Hornby a call and see what they say but I don't think the locomotive is faulty thanks for all the help and suggestions /media/tinymce_upload/3c8f93edface6f0c2791a3f9189496cc.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Decoders can get warm if they are passing max current loads as when running a loco flat out or under heavy load of wagons/coaches conditions. Tape is not recommended as a decoder wrap as it holds in the heat and the glue can be semi-conductive. It can however be used as a suitable insulating barrier on metal parts. Kapton tape is even better than B&Q type insulating tape. The best decoder insulation is heat shrink tube which has just been 'nipped' up at the ends by a bit of heat to stop it sliding off, whilst leaving the ends open to circulate some air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilux59721707820819 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 In answer to the original post, the cab lights cannot be controlled separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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