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More Pug fun!


Tuliper79

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So here is my Railroad Pug for your viewing pleasure, albeit perhaps limited pleasure. I've converted it to DCC using a rather tight fitting decoder, the Hornby R8249. Then I got a little carried away and installed a fire box light, in the form of a grossly unrealistic orange flickering LED which is way too bright and generally works best on a bright sunny day! Whilst this is clearly ludicrous, it is also great fun./media/tinymce_upload/6be934e987d257b2cd96a6625409a58f.JPG

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Bulver, it was a little tight but achievable none the less. The greater issue was cutting the wires long enough that they would reach their desired points of termination, but short enough that they would not get wrapped around the worm drive, the compounding effects of which potentially culminating in armageddon, sort of... 

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Fishmanoz, having bench tested various sizes of resistor, I'd originally plumped for 1.2k ohms, given the great advantage of retrospect I now wonder if doubling that figure may be the next port of call! Perhaps shortly followed by the alcohol cupboard... 

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Glad to see someone else has pug addiction,just chipped mine and it's running great.

Just a tip if you are thinking of putting a decoder in one of the latest versions,you don't need to take motor out as per Hornby instructions,however the motor is upside down,so re use the wiring from the pickups as you find it ie the right rail goes to the left motor terminal and left to the right.

I didn't and had to change cv29 to reverse direction,I used a Liverpool derived standard eight pin decoder,and had the thick part over the worm.

Got this great little loco really cheap from Hawkins,thanks to the member that directed us to their sale.

Whatever Hornby have done to this little gem it is now perfectly usable shunter,and has lost the pocket rocket

Scalextric madness,

Happy New Year

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Well spotted Pete, with the motor the correct way up, conversion is dead simple, not the complicated procedure in the guide.  Also, if you do a conversion and it runs backwards, just swap the orange and grey wires while you still have the body off testing it and you won't need to resort to CV29.

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