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Hammant & Morgan


Jeff Mennell

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Towards the end of that post, the general consensus was that the most ideal connector was the 3.5mm split pin connector that are no longer made (see my photo on the second page). As the replies in that post also indicate, some (but not all) 4mm Banana plug designs can fit but may be a tight fit. Based upon those documented statements, then maybe the 2mm Banana will be too loose.

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Having looked at the 3mm Banana plug product description more closely. It appears that they are actually 4mm Banana plugs designed for 3mm diameter wire. Somewhat confusing to say the least.

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How many of these plugs do you need ?

Are you UK based ?

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If you are based in the UK (due to postage costs) I am willing to send you two 3.5mm split pin red & two 3.5mm split pin black from my stock for free.

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Email your postal address to Adam [forum@hornby.com] and ask him to forward it to my forum registered address that he has for me. And I will send you two pairs by return of mail.

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Probably a bit late now if Chrissaf has already posted them, but I have a very low-tech solution to this.  I just strip the insulation off the last half inch of wire and use a short piece of cocktail stick to hold the bare wire in place in the socket.  It's reliable and cheaper than the cost of postage!

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Doc, good idea ta. Thing is, I wanted a 'proper' plug as I get fed up with train electrics, (on my layout), being unreliable. For example, I have a Hornby power clip which is wobbly and it periodically causes inconvenience so it gets on my nerves! I just wanted if poss to avoid yet another 'Jeff bodge job'!

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No

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Go back to page 1 of this thread and my first reply gives a link to click. Follow the link and you will find a photo of the controller in question. It predates the HM2000 (that uses spring terminals) by many years.

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For future readers. I thought I would give Google one last try and found these 3mm Pin Connectors. Just cover the wire crimp part with some 'Heat Shrink Tubing' and the result should look quite professional.

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/200x200/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/C/8/C831-1.jpg

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/plugs-connectors/pin-socket-plugs/3mm-pin-connector.html

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I looked at this thread too late to be of assistance, really, as I don't use H+M or dc, but model aircraft powered by lithium polymer batteries use 'bullet' connectors (amongst others!). They come in various sizes from 2 - 3 - 4 - mm and probably larger.

Find them at your local model shop (that does aircraft or cars) or e-bay, etc.

Plugs and sockets are available, usually in packs of 10, and not very expensive.

You will need to be able to solder, and they need heat-shrink sleeving.

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No

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Go back to page 1 of this thread and my first reply gives a link to click. Follow the link and you will find a photo of the controller in question. It predates the HM2000 (that uses spring terminals) by many years.

 

OK, I see now Chris. All I read in the main post of this thread, was someone one taking about their duett controller and this thread is called 'Hammant & Morgan', so I assumed it must be about the HM2000 Power Controller.

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2e0doeric mentioned the connectors used for model helicopters etc. for connecting the battery.  I have recently ordered some of these (3mm Gold Bullet Connectors / Banana Plugs For RC Car/Truck/Drone Lipo Battery) specifically to try with H&M controllers and the 16v AC socket.  When they arrive I will see if they are any good and feed back to the forum.

 

The ones I have ordered are here.  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122423609247?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

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Just to say that I have some of the pins that connect the slave controller to the main controller via the 12v DC socket.  They have a little kink in the middle and to be homes are not a particularly tight fit.  Neither do they have a slit down the middle or any spring type mechanism to keep them tight and in place.

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Here is a picture or two of the original items in situ and loose - as you can see no big deal. The crank stops you pushing it all the way through.

Roger/media/tinymce_upload/638dd2f760cb61a51b6ac14573f3c053.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/58792b9d2421ae5dc940ca32aaa21fc9.jpg

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The 3mm plugs that I posted about arrived today.  They area a perfect fit for the H&M sockets.  Push in easily and can be withdrawn without too much pressure.  The length is perfect as well.  Once in you have the small collar area still protruding to make them easier to remove.

You have to solder the wire but that is not an issue.  With the normal small size of layout cable you will possibly want to feed it in sideways and solder in the end rather like you do with a speaker/amp  banana plug.  If you were using larger wire 2-3mm then you possibly could feed it straight down the end then feed the bare wire out through the side hole and solder.  If you make a tidy job then shrink wrap is probably not needed although it would also act as a grip for the cable but given the different sizes not sure how you would make that tidy especially if you side feed.

These are an ideal solution if you want to use the sockets to feed wire to accessories.  You could also use them if you want to use the 12v DC for a controller etc. but would definately wire with thick wire in that case.

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