Wobblinwheel Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 I have a Hornby A4 "Golden Eagle" which has it's decoder located in the tender. I am wanting to install lighting in the firebox for the "firebox flicker". I know the obvious method would be to run two additional wires from the tender decoder to the LED or bulb in the firebox. I was thinking it sure would be nice if they made a simple "lighting only" decoder I could mount in the boiler for the lighting effects. No extra wires to the tender necessary.. Anybody heard of such a decoder? One would think such a decoder would be considerably cheaper than regular decoders, and smaller too, and, depending on the amount of lights installed in the loco, would eliminate the need for all the wires going back to the tender. Wouldn't that be a good idea, since they're putting the decoders in the tender nowadays, and NOT providing the extra wires in the harness for lighting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Lighting (Function) only decoders are, for some strange reason, more expensive than normal decoders. But you can wire in a flickering LED with resistor to the loco pickups anyway but this would be on continuously otherwise use an ordinary inexpensive decoder given the same address as the loco.......in the UK I would use a Hattons £10 decoder........HB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 HB is 100% correct. For some inexplicable reason, 'function only' decoders are more expensive than normal motor control decoders. Significantly more expensive..But note this: if you use a normal decoder just for the functions there is a 90% probability that it will need a motor load attached to it before it will accept the configuration of CV's. So plug it into a loco first and configure it all up before wiring it in its final resting place into the loco boiler. Some more expensive decoders include a function with a configurable CV to simulate 'firebox' flicker. To get the best effect out of the work involved in fitting the firebox LED, it may be worthwhile searching for a 'firebox' compatible decoder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 The Gaugemaster DCC25 OPTI decoder has the Firebox 'flicker' facility.......HB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 I would have thought wiring in an extra decoder and/or its socket was more hassle than installing the lighting function wires to the existing socket and running them across the gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Cheap function only decoder - buy 8249, cut off orange and grey wires adjacent to the PCB. Function onlys are more expensive because they are a small volume special. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobblinwheel Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 It really would be nice if the plug/harness between engine and tender had a few extra wires for lighting. I do believe my loco only has four. Two for track pickups, two for motor control. Of course, it's "no big deal" to run a multitude of extra wires from the tender to the loco, but I'd like to avoid it, if possible.... Sometimes it might be necessary to disconnect the tender from the loco, and I would hate to have to install an extra plug and socket, which could very likely be difficult to conceal. A separate decoder in the boiler would be a lot less work.... and not be so "busy". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobblinwheel Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 By the way, do they make "flickering" LEDs that would run off of direct track power? How much resistance would be recommended? I have a BUNCH of 600-something 1/4 watt resistors. Will they work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 @wobblyGo to your local cheap shop and look for those flickering battery operated tea lights. You normally get quite a lot of them for little money.You can then tear them apart for the leds. I use my standard 1K ohm resistor. They are usually amber and you can strap a red led into the circuit to provide a varied effect.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobblinwheel Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 @wobblyGo to your local cheap shop and look for those flickering battery operated tea lights. You normally get quite a lot of them for little money.You can then tear them apart for the leds. I use my standard 1K ohm resistor. They are usually amber and you can strap a red led into the circuit to provide a varied effect.RobThat sounds like the ticket... I already have the tea lights! (Why, I don't know...) Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choralc Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 As soon as I read out RAF's last message the good lady dashed out of her chair and as I began to read Wobbly's reply she called out that she couldn't hear me as she was hanging upside down in another room and promptly reappeared with a flickering tea light. So Wobbly I didn't know I had these either until a moment ago. She's keen to get my hammer now to open it up. With DCC which LED terminal should the resistor go on if I connect it up to the pickup wires for always on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 Either, in series with is in series with either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobblinwheel Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 Either, in series with is in series with either. So, polarity doesn't matter? I have a reversing loop, where I have to switch polarity before loco enters points on the other side. Will that kill the flicker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I have got steady glow buffer leds and flashing rear leds on guards vans powered direct from DCC rail pickups using a 1K ohm resistor without problem so far. I lashed up the flickering tea lights to see if they would look OK as gas platform and street lights on DC but never incorporated them.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I would think the effect would look OK especially at 3V - but are they IMHO too big for OO. The LED in one I have just opened (I was surprised to find them in the bits box) is c. 9mm. R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morairamike Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 While on the subject of using tea lights I have used them in four other applications.First, is a builder's site rubbish fire, the tea light lLED was removed from the case and glued into the base board. The fire was built up around it, match sticks for joists etc. (this is a N gauge layout at club), a dab of red paint on the bulb to give red as well as pink colur. The unit has a remote switch and runs off its original 3V battery but could be hard wired if required to 12V with resistor. A bit of cotton wool for the smoke.Second, is as a trigger for a welding arc light, this time in my 00 gauge engine shed inspection pit. This I run off a switched 12V supply using required resistor. The original tea light bulb is in series with a bright white LED. The bright LED switches on and off when the tea light flickers. Looks pretty realistic.Third (2 of), are used as the flame of a gas burner in a hot air balloon (again on the N guage layout at club). The tea light base unit, suitably modified, is fitted inside (in one case) a small teddy bear to represent Pudsey. The battery is inside him and when switched on it looks like the flames for the hot air gas burner. The other is stress relieving rubber ball with a company logo on it. Again the unit is inside with external switch. Hot air balloons these days are all shapes and sizes.Fourth, is as candle effect inside my Metcalf church. Could also be used as fire effect in a house or a group could be used to represent a house or other building on fireThere's no limit of the uses for these cheap items from the £ shop 4 or sometimes 6 for a £1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobblinwheel Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 I just took apart two of mine, wired in one 680 ohm resistor on one, and two in series on the other, and applied track power. They both came on, one a little brighter than the other, but no flicker! They flicker off the 2032 battery, but not the track.... why not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 MikeIts probably the DCC frequency is too high so you,need someone like Chris or Fishy to tell how to tame it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 I found the flicker tea light only worked on DCC when a bridge rectifier is in circuit.........HB/media/tinymce_upload/ed2f5eb4c76991410a128c15b892b2e3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Yes HB, that could have a bearing on how the flicker circuit works. With a single diode rectifier, the DC output is pulsed with gaps between the pulses. Albeit at DCC frequencies, these gaps will be very small indeed. A bridge rectifier goes some way to filling in these gaps with additional positive voltage, thus making the DC output flatter..For clarity, are you saying that you tried it with a single diode (half wave rectification) and it didn't work ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Chris.......using a single diode set one way - no light, set other way - continuous light, no flash.......the irregular flashing LED cannot match the DCC frequency..........HB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 In the full B.R circuit just tried a red LED in series with the yellow flicker LED and it flickers in sympathy.......creates a very nice fire effect especially when the bulbs are wrapped in a bit of crinkled tin foil (carefully to avoid a short). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 HB, I have hidden my earlier schematic as your testing shows it was unlikely to offer a workable solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobblinwheel Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 Isn't there some sort of "flickering gizmo" I could put in the circuit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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