Converting Turntable to DCC

[Lardenr]

Hi all,

I am currently converting my DC layout to DCC. I have the Hornby Turntable, the motorised version, and looked at the online guide to making this DCC with a loco decoder. Firstly, has anyone done this, and what do they think?

My 2nd query was though, does power pass through to the track on turntable. As you have to take the clips out that connect the siding tracks to the turntable track(to stop it shorting), I can't see how this would get the power. My turntable is fixed permanantly to my layout, so I don't really want to take this up to look. It says on the instructions that each track going off, has to have it's own power, which I will install. I have 3 tracks going off, so will fit droppers to each of these.

Also on the subject of the turntable, has anyone had issue of trains going from the track onto the turntable. I'm forever having trains going fowl and derailing when mounting the turntable. If they have, how have you corrected this?

Many thanks in advance.

[Chrissaf]

You need to read this previously posted 'How To' based upon real life forum members experiences. The conversion method described in the linked post, is the method recommended by forum members as a result of consensus of previous discussions on this topic.

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https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/r070-hornby-turn-table-to-dcc-including-images/?p=1

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You don't say what DCC controller you are using. If using RailMaster, then you need to see this companion post as well.

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https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/r070-turntable-configuration-in-railmaster/?p=1

[Lardenr]

Great, many thanks I will take a look at that. I am just using a Gaugemaster Prodigy Express as my controller

[mjb1961]

Hi Lardenr,,,,I converted my TT useing the HORNBY method ,,,,it works fine for me ,,,,,as for derailing etc ,I sunk my TT into the base board which then makes the inlet and outlet tracks level ,,,you have to mess about with it but if you persevere you will get there ,,,I then cut curved sections from very stiff cardboard ,,,,glued them down on the black section of the TT in between tracks ,painted them grey and then ballasted to blend in with the rest of the area ,,,looks quite good ,,,mjb

[Lardenr]

Hi, just to let you know that using the method, I have succesfully converted over to DCC, thanks. I used the one where I used isolated fishplates on all the outlets, and wired each outlet, kept the small metal clips on the bridge, and works fine. Only thing extra I had to do was I had a outlet track on the other side of the TT so had to reverse the polarity on that one.(which I found by watching a Youtube video) 

[Fishmanoz]

Hi Lardenr, isolating all of the outlets is fine, but for others, what have done with the inlet track?  You can't leave it intact with power and in turn powering the bridge as you get a short as soon as you start to rotate it.  Did you isolate it too?  If so, then how did you power the bridge?

 

And the fact the TT is a slip ring design so has reversed polarity on half of the outlets is well covered in the other threads referenced.