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Schools Class 'St Pauls' Problem


Doodle009

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Hi All,

Do any of you guys run a Schools Class loco by any chance? I have a brand new one which keeps stopping at the same point on my layout, I have no other loco prblems with my fleet of 20 locos. My Schools Class seems to have excessive side

to side play on the rear driving wheels, compared to the front driving wheels the rear ones have about 4+ times the amount of play in them. When it hits this one curve it stops dead, if I use a wooden lolly stick or a pencil and apply enough pressure and push

one of the rear wheels inwards it starts going again, so it is definitely to do with this excess play in the wheels. If anyone on here runs one of these locos could they check to see if their rear driving wheel side to side play is far greater than the front

two driving wheels and let me know? Many thanks, Andy
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Hi there,

I sent it back to Hornby and they adjusted the contacts and sent it back to me and it still does the same thing. None of my other locos do this,even my little 0-6-0. What is the best way to adjust the contacts without bending them out

of shape completely?

Andy
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Hi Andy,
Did you check the contacts were clean? I use a small sewing needle to slide it between the chassis & contact, then gently slide it either side of the wheel axle till the contact is firmly against the wheel. Only use gentle pressure

as they adjust very easily & too much pressure could damage the pickup. Is the track that it stops at on a curve, straight or gradient?
Regards
Tee
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Hi Tee,

Yes, the contacts are clean, she stops always on

the same curve. If I push the driving wheel with a pencil it makes contact and takes off again until it hits the same surve.

Andy
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When I first got my St Paul’s I had a few issues with it., the first was it derailed on curves the reason was the front bogie pin that connects to the chassis had too much up & down play which allowed it to jump the rails on curves so a small rubber sleeve

was used to take up the slack. Then it would stop like yours on a slight gradient. This was caused by the loco & tender having so little clearance that the black floor plate covering the tie bar pushed against the tender & lifted the first set of wheels off

the track stopping the train dead. To rectify this I had to extend the tie bar to give a 1cm clearance, any more & it pulled on the wires to the tender housing the sound box. I made this out of a piece of stiff flat plastic. All works now I will have to investigate

why with all wheel pick up the train still stops if the leading tender wheels lose contact with the rails. You may want to check this on yours too as a cause.
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The strange thing is, if the tender is leading

the loco or the loco approaches the curve from the other side (anticlockwise) there is no problem at all, it's really odd.

Andy
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Have you checked the white socket wires going to the Tender? Start the train very slowly. If they are good you should be able to lift the tender off the rails completely & the loco will still move as the other pickups will give it a feed if it stops it

is the socket pins not making contact.
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  • 5 years later...

if it helps you can buy a back to back T bar which will give you the correct distance between wheels, I check all my loco's before i put them on the track, you can get them on e=bay for a few £s, they save a lot of hasttle  I have a sounded St Pauls and it runs perfectly.

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