Adding a lighting circuit back

[hedley_reynolds]

Hi Chris 

thanks very much again for your help and advice as Well as a load of patience and I’ll get the circuit board from dcc concepts as they have ones that I think are small enough for to go into n gauge but I’ll have to check the measurements for them to make sure also I’ll copy your diagram for building the circuit board with the resistors and diodes etc also I’ll take a better photo of the underneath of the board when I take it off  but thanks very much again it’s greatly appreciated as well Hedley 

[2e0dtoeric]

In the photo just before the one with the cab roof and panto - the circuit board shown, with R1, R2, R10, etc has a large (drilled?) hole close to the lower edge, and it appears that the track it passes through is broken - just to add to Hedley's woes!

[hedley_reynolds]

Hi Eric

l see what you mean and I didn’t notice that however Chris has suggested that I get a new circuit board for to replace it so I’ll do that but I’m waiting to hear from dcc supplies for to see if they can supply a complete circuit board or not but thanks very much again Hedley 

[hedley_reynolds]

Hi Chris and Eric 

just an update I have just removed the circuit board and there’s no resistors underneath the board they’re just flat with the wires that attaches to it and the numbers of the pins ie 1 to 6 for the decoder socket also R3 is the same as R1 also Eric that hole on that track wasn’t a hole at all it was a bit of the adhesive that was on the kapton tape covering that part of the circuit board where the decoder went and that was what was covering the R3 resistor as I hadn’t took it off properly until just now but thanks very much again for all of your help and advice  Hedley 

[hedley_reynolds]

Hi Chris 

just a quick question about the diagram if I replace the 6 pin socket with the 8 pin Gaugemaster dcc22 decoder and cutting off the plug and using the blue wire instead of the 2 diodes and just using the resistors on a new circuit board would I be able for to do it that way as these decoders are very small and Hattons recommend them especially for the n gauge class 08 shunter because of the size or would it be better to use your diagram and the 6 pin socket harness 

thanks very much again for all of your help and advice Hedley 

[Chrissaf]

The 8 pin decoder generates the positive Blue wire functionality on the decoder itself. So my Blue wire in the drawing from the common side of the LEDs would go to the blue wire on the decoder instead, negating the need for the two external diodes.

.

Since the decoder socket is eliminated (because you have cut off the plug) and the diodes are eliminated (because the decoder is replacing their function) you only have the four resistors left. Rather than a board, it would just be easier to put the resistors in the wire runs themselves and cover them with heat shrink. You still might want to consider some small mini in-line plug & sockets between the loco chassis and the body end cabs to make body removal easier i.e based on the JST connectors I linked to in an earlier reply.

[hedley_reynolds]

Hi Chris

thanks very much again I had forgot about being able to connect the resistors in-line when I had posted my last message and that makes it a lot easier for to do and as you say still put the connectors on for the removal of the body as well as building the circuit as it won’t be dangling about when trying to do it

once again thanks very much for all of your help and advice with this Hedley