Audi R8s chassis differences....

[Jeffrey Y]

Hello, just joined, just new to all this, & have inherited some bits all relating to Sport analogue. 

I have an Audi R8 LMS GT3, I would like to fit lights & have found the appropriate lighting kit/pack W9626. 

However on the service sheet 455C this kit only fits 4 models out of 11 listed, my model is the C3134 which on the list isn't applicable for a lighting kit. All other items seem to fit across the range with little variations.

Looking at the diagram, & looking inside the car I cannot see why it would not retro fit? All the support pillars/posts are there for the lighting boards, are there differences between all the variations of the R8.

Many thanks to you all

Jeffrey Y

[woodcote]

Hi Jeffrey. The incompatibility is not with the chassis, but the wiring. The Audis came as Super Resistant models (like yours) and also High Detail versions with lights. It's the wiring 'loom' that is different between the two versions. The W9626 lighting boards are a plug and play replacement for the High Detail cars. How you fit them into your Super Resistant cars will be a little different, but not much more difficult at all.

 

The wires for rear light board will solder very easily onto the motor terminals (the standard configuration on the High Detail cars, I think). The wires on the headlight board can be soldered onto the metal terminals coming up from the guide plate. There should be enough wire to do this and for the guide to rotate freely - but it's work checking before you solder. The alternative is to splice them into the wiring loom, but unless you're quite experienced with soldering and wiring, that's a more difficult solution.

 

A word of caution - both soldering jobs involve soldering the light board wires to terminals where there are already wires soldered. Be sure to tin the new wires to minimise the soldering time and ensure the existing cables don't lift off. Good luck!

[Jeffrey Y]

Hello Woodcote,

Many thanks for your comprehensive reply, also you are extremely knowledgeable & well informed. 

From the Service Sheet 455C, & looking at the kit W9626 (only viewing one on eBay!),  it would appear a fairly simple operation, it would appear that the kit comes as a wiring loom with the DPR Plug, the resistors, and the wires with the 2 metal plates that sit into the guide blade assembly.

The kit/wiring loom has the same resistor that sits with the motor, plus an addtional (secondary) one near the metal plates/pick-up points, - this secondary resistor must be there for a reason?

Therefore the only wiring,soldering is at the motor point? Am I missing something....?

Again many thanks for your help with this

Jeffrey 

[woodcote]

Wow! I've just seen the kit on eBay. It does seem to come all wired up - a very easy job! Just pop the metal contacts into the guide/braid plate assembly (it's a little easier if you remove the screw and let it drop down), put the plug in the DPR socket and solder the legs of the 'ferrite man' to the motor. The two ferrite men front and back (actually a capacitor passing through a ferrite ceramic ring) are there to filter out electrical noise that can interfere with a digital chip. Ideally there is one by the pick-ups and one across the motor terminals.

[Jeffrey Y]

Hi Woodcote

Many thanks for your help and advice, very kind & helpful. Also thank you for the reasoning for the 2 capacitors, useful information.. 

Also thank you for looking at the LED kit on-line, really appreciated. 

I'll go-ahead & soon will be able to see & drive in the dark too....

Best regards, Jeffrey