Slingerwoods Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 Having been given a P2 as a present I find it won't go round a standard radius rail or in fact negoitate a standard point due its long wheel base. Has anyone found a work around for this problem. Me I am thinking put a flangeless wheel on the rear allowing the train to pivot on three wheels. Not sure where to get a set or in fact if it will work. All constructive comments welcome and no Iam not going to rip up my existing set to fit all class two curves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WilliamDavid Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 I have no trouble with mine on R2 curves or the small points.It is designed to work with thos, so there must be some issue with your loco.What is happening to yours? Derailing, stopping? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 By standard curve I take it you mean Radius 1 and by class 2 curves you mean Radius 2.The loco is designed to go round minimum Radius 2 - it says so on the box - so it is not surprising if it baulks at Radius 1 track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jane1707819582 Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 from memory the p2 came with a set of flangless wheels for the rear of the loco ,is yours flanged ?if your track is not dead flat the loco rear set will be catching in the points and on the curves,take out the small wheels under the cab to see if the movement improves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 Can check fluff or hair on the axles and that the gauge of the wheels has not moved and is correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 My 2001 has no problems on P3, P4.P2 is said to be the limit, but will wear the chassis a little more on sharper corners. As mentioned, look for fluff.When gently turned upside down - take care not to damage any detail parts - see if it's relatively easy to slide the axles side-to-side - might be a little tight in the bushings - a little drop of 'light machine oil' will help - don't over-oil. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jane1707819582 Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 from memory the p2 came with a set of flangless wheels for the rear of the loco ,is yours flanged ?if your track is not dead flat the loco rear set will be catching in the points and on the curves,take out the small wheels under the cab to see if the movement improvesYes all 8 driving wheels are flanged what are the ones underneath the cab ,these are the ones which can catch the track on the curves,points ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWRStation Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Just to reinvigorate this post. I have a Brand New P2 which seems to derail without any provocation on points However, it is erratic and not every time. The points can be Hornby type standard, which can be a little problamtic for some but also, and especially, new Piko curved points... I have checked it over and the gauges are correct with full side to side movement. I have removed the rear wheels with no improvement and even the tender hops off points as well. One thing I have noted is the the flange depth is very fine and any slight rocking of the loco lifts the front wheel flanges above the rails....Might have to just be a shelf display "Queen" !!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Are the points flat? Some add an extra pin near the middle to ensure they don't change shape slightly. Just looking at my earlier posts - obviously referring to the P2 and radius, thus R3 and R4 ... !! Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Possibly, the Piko points are of a sharper radius than the Hornby "Standard" points, which have the diverging line at Radius 2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friendly Fryer Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 I have just got a P2 3246TTS and my Peco75 points are all fine with all other locos except this one. To my eye is seem there's not enough weight over the front bogey and no self centering action so the bogy just seems to float. for my track work the minum radious is 784mm dictated by the inside radious on peco 75 curved points, although this problem happend when traversing a double slip set to left route to left route a syou approach it and the fron bogey got hoplessly stuck. I have A4 silver fox , P1 Tornado, 9f evening star and MN Channel Packet goign over this flawlessly. My questin is has nayone got any handy tips for fixing it as I love the thing despite it's appalling low speed control Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 There is another post on a subject like this. My one was always derailing itself with the front bogie falling off. I read a post on this forum that suggested adding a bit of weight to the front bogie, which is exactly what I did. I added a thin sliver of phosphor bronze I bought at an autojumble (my other hobby is building classic bikes). Needless to say it cured the issue. If you watch the front bogie as it goes along it is so light that it gets into oscillations and eventually pings itself off the rails. The Railroad A1s suffer from the same fault, in their case you add a better spring to the front bogie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 If you want to make the Curvse less 'Curvey' - you could always add a 'straight' inbetween the curves...(like so) /media/tinymce_upload/1eed7c4325e4964986f5ff93e3eec66a.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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