Hornby Class 47 Mammoth convert to DCC!

[Forum-1211528]

I have the Hornby class 47 Mammoth from the Seventies it has lit directional head codes can this be converted to DCC then you could turn the lit head codes off with DCC! Do you think think this is a good idea or is it like Triang they can cause trouble?

[96RAF]

1. Yes - anything can be converted to DCC but some are harder than others.

2. Yes - wiring will need to be altered to suit.

3. Probably - that depends upon the value of the model and your particular needs.

4. No idea - apart from if its a current hungry motor and using a suitable decoder.

 

Is DCC conversion within your skillset Colin or would you need to farm it out.

[Fishmanoz]

It’s a Ringfield motor type so shouldn’t draw too much current, but still do a stall test.  Then you need to check what type of Ringfield and ensure no contact between LH motor brush and chassis.

[The son of Triangman]

First lets dispell a myth that Colin seems to believe.

"is it like Triang they can cause trouble"

 

Tri-ang locos don't give trouble if properly converted and are in good condition, most Tri-ang locos almost the easiest to convert to DCC in a lot of cases, I have converted loads of Tri-ang locos to DCC and they never give any bother.

 

Now to the Hornby class 47 Mammoth, the ringfield motor of this period often isn't a straight forward conversion, you need to bear in mind some of the motors of this period have a cast pin on the chassis making contact with one brush holder arm, the arm has to be insulated, once that is done it's then a straight forward conversion and the lighting is easy to convert as well.

[ColinB]

I have one of these, has anyone converted it to pickup from all the wheels? As with all locos of this vintage the front bogue picks up one supply, the other bogie the other. I know when I converted my railroad Tornedo, this site pointed me to actual Hornby spare parts that would fit.

Incidently, when I converted my Ringfield motor on the Stowe, it had the "Shorting Screw". I removed it and tapped the hole to be the same thread as the other brush holder (I think it was 2.5 mm). I then used nylon 2.5mm, screws for both, this stops you accidently getting them mixed up if you take it apart again. If you are using DCC and you don't insulate the brush holders, you can damage the DCC chip. This has actually happened to me on a DCC ready loco, that had a short between motor and pickup from new, which you would not notice on analogue.

[Charles-1228497]

Did it work in the end? If so a description would be good. Starting the same with my 1979 Mammoth

[RDS]

@Charles

You have added to a thread that is over 2 years and it is unlikely that the person who started the discussion will see your post (not impossible, just unlikely!) It is always better to start your own thread when trying to cover a topic more than a few months old.

Also:

Moderator Note:

Could you please select the 'View my Community’ in your Dashboard on the Forum and choose a nickname in the ‘My profile' tab, rather than your First name that has been automatically allocated by the system. Hopefully a Forum change is coming soon to prevent this automatic allocation but a manual change is required at the moment and there will be more than one member with your name.

[Fishmanoz]

Charles, good advice from RDS for a start.

But given you have the same loco as the OP, did you actually read the advice given. It’s all about how to convert it, so answers your question on whether it is possible. People wouldn’t be telling you how if it isn’t possible. It is.