how to solder wires from on track going to another

[JohnnyJohnny]

Hi all just finished building my DCC layout and it's built on multiple boards and I was wondering how to solder wires from one track to the other so I don't have to use fishplates where the boards join and also what wires would I use to do this job and how would I use the plug in connectors to make it so I can just plug them in when I'm exhibiting and take it out when I'm moving cheers Johnny 

[RDS]

Welcome to the Forum Johnny. 

There have been many threads on this topic.  This one was running a few days ago.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/joining-sectional-layouts-dcc-powered/?p=1/#post-326667

[JohnnyJohnny]

this thread just tells me how to keep the tracks aligned it doesn't tell me how to solder wires going from one track to another or how to use the plugin connectors or what wires to use either

[Chrissaf]

I've just reviewed the link provided by RDS above. It most certainly does cover 'How to join the boards together from a wiring perspective'. If you follow all the subsequent embedded links in the posts and threads that the link above leads to.

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The connector referenced most often in the various posts is the nylon strip connector with integrated pins. An example of this connector is shown on the very page the RDS link above takes you two.

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As to wire size, that will depend upon the exact topology of your layout, taking into account the overall power distribution of the layout as a whole. In other words an estimate of how much current the track joining wires need to pass through them. For example if there are going to be a number of boards in series, then the electrical board joints nearest the controller will have to pass more current than board joints furthest away from the controller connection.

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In principle, the wires need to be the thickest wires you can reasonably install.

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To overcome the issue of board vs power distribution topology. I would suggest a BUS wiring system [a separate BUS for each individual controller output]. A thick pair of wires of 32/0.7mm [32 strands of 0.2mm wire] run from board to board from each controller. It is these BUS wires that connect together between boards using the strip connector. Then 7/0.2mm wire droppers solder to the individual tracks on each board to [drop down] to connect to the thicker BUS wires. That way you don't have to have unsightly THICK wires soldered directly to the track rails.

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One of the onward links in the threads linked to above is broken. The broken link went to my 'How to Solder' tutorial. The link is broken because I updated and moved the original 'How To' post. The revised working link for it is reproduced below:

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https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/faq-how-to-solder-for-model-railways/

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TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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[Puffed Out]

You can purchase fishplates with wires attached, from an online auction site, for about 50p each. plus postage.

[Chrissaf]

Which many members on here advise against using as they do not improve electrical reliability in the longer term. They only really suit users who can't or won't try to solder wires themselves (direct to the rails).

[37lover]

Chrissaf,

You perhaps should be a little less critical of those, like myself, who have used fishplates with wires attached. I did not want to solder direct to the track, not that I couldn't. I have droppers from almost every fishplate and it has given a very reliable performance so far, over 10 years! If a few start failing over the next 10 years I believe there is adequate redundancy to compensate. I probably will not be here to worry about it after those next 10 years. I soldered the droppers to the fishplates myself and if I recall correctly it was easier with another make of fishplate.

[The Duke 71000]

The solution to the nightmare questions facing many beginners !

The problems of connecting wires between baseboards, is just one of the many questions beginners always seem to struggle with ! I had just the same problems, so I went and joined my local Model Railway Club.

 

Within just a few weeks I had learnt all sorts of basic methods, such as how to build proper baseboards that don't warp, how you build legs to support them, and of course how you connect the dozens of wires going between all those baseboards. Indeed the many experts in the Club quickly taught me all sorts of wiring tricks and electrical methods, including the best ways to motorise points, and signals, and even how to make your own signals. Within a year I had even learnt how to scratchbuild points, build locomotive & rolling stock kits, how to dissasemble RTR products and maintain them correctly and extend their useful lives, all of which improved my modelling skills tremendously, and most importantly saved me a fortune.

 

The Club also gave me all the tips and hints as to where you could get the best quality products at the best prices ! For example where can you get 10 Kilometres of quality layout cable (my layouts huge) at under £380.00 ? At City Electrical Factors (CEF) - should be one near you.

 

After many years and many Clubs, I regard myself as an expert. Indeed I doubt there is a Club layout on the planet that can operate at exhibitions as realistically as mine. Because unlike any other layout I'm aware of, I do NOT use either Analogue or DCC ! But a real railway electrical system called TCC (Track Circuit Control), which as in real life has Track Circuits interlocked with Points, Signals and even an AWS (Automatic Warning System). This makes the layout more entertaining for both operators and the viewing public, than either Analogue or DCC !

 

How could I reach such a professional level ? Simply because I joined my first club at 16 (decades ago now), and I haven't stop learning since, and its all been great fun............ !

The Duke 71000