Filling & Sanding

[Ratch]

Returning to the hobby after 40 odd years. Can I get some advice on "grit" levels for sanding after filling?

the help video for the filler refers to a "medium" grit level but the range is so huge I was hoping for something more specific. 

Many thanks.

[zuludog]

I, too, have returned to plastic modelling after 40 years or so

 

For filling I use Squadron 'Green Putty', but there are others of course, including Humbrol

 

Over the years I have acquired a fair collection of sandpaper covering the grades 100 to 600 grit in increments of approx 100, though that doesn't need to be exact

A glance through my collection shows grades of 100, 150, 180, 250, 320, 400, & 600; reflecting the fact that I bought them as I needed them, and not in any organised fashion

 

I also have several manicure boards. Some were purloined from my wife and daughter, and some were donated as they found they didn't like them

They are double sided (the boards, not the ladies) and although they are only described as medium or fine, I'd guess that they are about 100 and 220 grit

You can buy abrasive sticks specifically made for plastic modelling, and I think they would go down to finer grades. 

 

I don't know if there is a correct technical description, but it is all traditional sandpaper with a paper back and sandy (surprise surprise) or pale brown grit

I have successfully used more modern abrasive paper like aluminium oxide and other grits that are silver - grey, blue, or green, I just don't happen to have any at the moment, so I can't tell you the exact grades, though they would be in the same sort of region

However, I stopped using the black wet & dry paper intended for car body repairs as this sometimes leaves dark grey marks on the model

 

As a returnee I have found Mr Surfacer. This is a liquid filler. The idea is that after you've filled & sanded in the usual manner you paint on Mr surfacer and this fills any hairline cracks and scratches. Then you sand it off as before, but with the finer grades

There are various grades of Mr Surfacer, but I find 500 is fine enough for me

The problem is that it will dry on the brush, and you can't remove it with white spirit, you must use a more powerful solvent like cellulose acetate, which is a fiddle

Instead I use an empty nail varnish bottle, obtained from tha same suppliers as above, and use the cap brush.

Then I return the cap to the bottle and it acts as a keeper so the brush doesn't dry out

The bottle should be empty but it doesn't need to be spotless, in fact any residual nail varnish will add to the saturated atmosphere inside the bottle and keep the brush soft

Any slight traces of nail varnish are miscible with the Sufracer and don't give any problems

One thing though - Mr Surfacer has a powerful solvent smell

 

Finally, I use a cheap soft #7 paintbrush (camel? squirrel?) to brush off any filler & plastic dust from the model

 

 

 

[peebeep]

I tend to use files for heavy work and sponge sanders for finishing. The sponge sanders are about equivalent to 600 through to 1200. For finishing I use two way nail buffers (I buy 'The Edge' in bulk), with these you can bring the surface up to match unsanded plastic.

 

Mr Surfacer is a filler primer, I use the 500 neat with a brush for gap filling. It is lacquer based and you need to clean up with cellulose. It can be sprayed if heavily thinned with cellulose, actually it's best to use GS Levelling Thinner. The 1500 grade gives a superb base coat for top coating, the best primer you can get IMO.