mjb1961 Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 How about a new turntable ,a proper well type and dcc ready ,,the hornby one that we all know is well out of date and should be retired . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Doc Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 I agree 100%. The Hornby turntable is very toylike, and mine has become temperamental, with the copper contacts popping out regularly. I also have an old Triang model which looks much more realistic and works better. The next best alternatives are the Peco kit which can be unmotorised, or the Heljan turntable which, if I recall correctly, is nearly £200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 I agree the present turntable is dated and has no pretentions to realism. The suggested "Well Type" is all well and good (no pun intended) but may cause some modellers difficulty if it required a hole to be cut out in the baseboard to accomodate it. There are already kits for this type in any case (Peco). Some method of accomodating it flush with the baseboard really needs to be tried. The style of the old Airfix / Dapol kit with the through girder arrangement might be best although this will still require a modest ramp to get track up the height of the table itself, but then also leaves the problem of motorisation. The drive cannot be underneath, although some kind of gearbox will have to be accomodated. Drive would then have to be brought in from the side from a motor hidden under a building. (The old R45 Triang turntable was like this, but was also fairly crude and used a circular steel plate onder the deck to transmit the drive.) Not an easy one to solve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 This is mine, Under construction, it is hand operated using a Meccano worm and pinion under the board and sits in a well cut out of the baseboard. The deck was fabricated using the Airfix /Dapol girders and rail ring, but inverted and a new deck fabricated./media/tinymce_upload/dd69981979549252178306cf95956222.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 This is my Peco turntable - https://flic.kr/p/2iTsRKQ - it is fitted with a Locomotechnic motor which comes with fitted gearbox, and flat-out, turns at 2rpm. It is virtually noiseless - I operate the turntable from and H&M Clipper.It is a very easy to build kit, and the polarity changes as the bridge turns. I have two on my layout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37lover Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 BB,Could you please provide more details of the motor and gearbox, I have searched Google for Locomotechnic but comes up empty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 This is my Peco turntable - https://flic.kr/p/2iTsRKQ Nicely done.I took the liberty of browsing your other pictures and was impressed with your multitrack with TT lifting flap at the doorway. That must be heavy as suggested by the size of the hefty hinge pivot bolts. I presume hard wired with a flexy loom across the hinge area for the pair of points and the TT control, etc. I have seen similar flaps with gas struts (car hatchback type) to help with the lifting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 BB,Could you please provide more details of the motor and gearbox, I have searched Google for Locomotechnic but comes up empty. Sorry I got the spelling wrong - try this https://www.locomotech.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 This is my Peco turntable - https://flic.kr/p/2iTsRKQ Nicely done.I took the liberty of browsing your other pictures and was impressed with your multitrack with TT lifting flap at the doorway. That must be heavy as suggested by the size of the hefty hinge pivot bolts. I presume hard wired with a flexy loom across the hinge area for the pair of points and the TT control, etc. I have seen similar flaps with gas struts (car hatchback type) to help with the lifting. Hi RobThe bus cable runs to the end of the lift-up section, with enough "spare" to allow for the lift - which I don't do at the moment as I'm fit enough to crawl underneath. The section is approximately 3'x2' - the hinges were made by Model Railway Solutions in Poole and cost about £19 for the pair. If you were to lift that section on a regular basis it would probably be best to "sleeve" the bolt hole with a short length of steel tubing. I was very careful when positioning everything, and you cannot feel the joints where the track butts together. It will lift through 180 degrees, but I added a folding leg on the side, so that it rests at about 45degrees. Happy for anyone to browse my flickr account - it's 99.9% model railway + a cat and a some cars. Barry (aka BB) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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