T2B Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 Most would chose to mask before spraying. You could get an Eduard mask set for the kit for a few quid which would easy the masking process? Normally I would try and avoid spraying before assembly as may be difficult to blend in the finish if seams etc need tidying up? If doing the silver scheme, silver can be especially difficult to match up and blend! I usually get a mask set if there's lots of glazing. Some modellers paint the canopies by hand/brush after assembly? Some or most of the glass voids can be filled or masked with sponge during the spraying process. Good Luck and try and post your build progress or finished model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 I am building a 1:72 B17G atm with my 2 12 year old daughters - that are enjoying it and are pretty patient. It's only my 3rd model since getting back into it after 35 years. Question :There are a lot of turrets and glass on the model which are going to be tricky to mask when built. So should I spray the fuselage with the main colour before assembly and touch up once the wings and tail are added (and gaps filled). Or do I leave until assembly complete and spend a lot of time masking? Thank you in advance, Martyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 It might be best to mask the transparencies before fixing them in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peebeep Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 Concur with Ratch, transparencies are easier to handle and mask before fixing. Once fixed you can paint over the framing in interior colour, then top coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyndW Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 Thanks for the advice. Things have moved on since my youth! Never knew about the masking kits. Is this the kind of thing? https://www.eduard.com/eduard/masks/aircraft/1-72/b-17g-1-72-1-1.htmlI will post some pics when I am at a suitable stage. Thank you again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_hughes2 Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 They are the manuafacturer. Try Hannants, as a UK stockist.https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/?product_category_id=0&product_division_id=0&scale_id=956&product_type_id=2724&manufacturer_id=0&sort=0&search_direction=asc&search=&keyword_search=B-17G&stock=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter s Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 I've just spent the afternoon painting the canopy on an airfix Bf110c by hand. With a really nice bit of clear perspex (as found on all the new tool airfix kits) the framing is raised nicely. I added the canopy at the end of the build so to paint I stuck it on a little bit of duct tape, painted it carefully with a fine brush using tamiya acrylics (which being alcohol based tend to stick faster so you can get away with 1 coat) then overpainted with the vallejo model air I'd used to paint the plane. I then sharpen a cocktail stick and run it along the raised lines. That takes the acrylic paint straight off and leaves a nice straight line. I've used commercial masks before and made my own with yellow masking tape. It sort of depends on the individual project as to which one makes the most sense. The cocktail stick method (or use a sharp HB or H pencil) works really well but the brush painting is time consuming. Masks can be fiddly though but once fitted dead quick to paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 Of course, you could just freehand them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyndW Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 The masks arrived. At first I thought "how do I manouvre those into position?" but with the help of some younger eyes we have it all masked up. Just spraying it silver at the moment.Have made an interesting discovery with the acrylic spray - it felt slightly rough but buffing is bringing up th finish. I am using coffee filters as they provide a really light abrasive but don't leave lint/fluff on the surface (I use them for cleaning computer cpus prior to installing heatsinks with thermal paste). The surface is starting to look nice.I am finding the 150ml spray cans don't last long though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter s Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 The coffee filter idea is a VERY good one. Thanks for that.Humbrol do a product called "metalcote" in a can which sprays dull then polishes up like real metal. Its amazing stuff but not for the amateur. It uses an odd solvent and can react badly with other paints. Yeah... I found a long time ago that spray cans don't last long. You can buy a basic but perfectly good double action airbrush for under £10 on eBay (Chinese... they don't last long but at that price so what?) & a compressor for about £50. You don't need to do many models for that to make good financial sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyndW Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 I have a cheap airbrush but was a little wary about doing metallic paint with it. Maybe next time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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