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The Best Adhesive for this ?


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As I'm widening my layout to five tracks quite serious elevations are needed where the outer track crosses an inner one, necessitating piers. To get rid of any flexing of the track between piers I'm experimenting with gluing two rails together.   At first glmpse the result is fine and the structure looks less 'spidery'.   I have used Uhu and this seems to work. But would SuperGlue be better ? Sounds a bit drastic.

BTW  On his layout Oscar Paisley uses some beige-coloured supporting track that looks something like Scalextric, but isn't. Can anyone tell me what it is ?  Maybe something from Tri-ang ?

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Maybe Jimbopuff is onto a great use for all that rusty track discussed in another recent thread! I hope I do not have the false sarcasm of that Trump fellow but perhaps you could make a box type girder; two upright pieces either side of the top piece with the sleepers interlocked with the main track and a fourth piece across the bottom, a few bulkheads to stop it all distorting, and away you go. We need this lateral thinking.

 

However, a strip of ply or mdf would be much simpler.

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If you are glueing plastic to plastic don't use superglue, the bond can be brittle, use a plastic glue such as Revell produce or a solvent paint on type such as plastic weld. Check the track base doesn't distort as the glue does it's stuff or you could end up with a gauge less than the 16.5mm.

 

 

If the track supports are beige, is the layout you refer to TT? The Tri-ang TT ones were beige and had sections for points, curves and straights in double and single tracks (it think the double ones were made anyway, the points ones definitely were).  The 00 ones Triang made to go with their Standard Track were grey. Did Hornby Dublo do any? A lot of their trackside buildings were beige and orange? 

 

I think I'd go with the plywood solution.

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I think Oscar Paisley's track supports must be a Triang product designed for Super 4 track - his layout is mostly Triang stuff, and very well it performs too.  Those track supports even have slots for the catenary system to be fitted.  They are a ginger colour that matches the set of inclined pillars that Triang used to make.

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Hello all. Many thanks for your answers.

No, I haven't any plywood or mdf

and am forbidden to go out for 3 months. Also, the double rail sandwich looks nicer.  37lover hit the nail on the head (nothing to do with plywood 😆) as I 'inherited' a large bunch of steel track when I bought my FS and Schools for £30 from a Sally Army guest. Also a Hornby 905 Controller which seems to work very well though weighs a ton (copied from H&M ? ).  How many Ohms, I wonder.  I confess I have never seen one before so maybe Hornby had a sales flop.

The info regarding OP's track supports is very interesting and I will search further online. Thankyou.

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The track supports for Super 4 track are in three sections, for each track section.

 

Two outside parts, with an infill between the rails.

 

Only straight and two radius of curves were made.

 

They clip to Super 4 track in the same way as the Super 4 level Crossings.

 

This means that the clips are wrong for modern Hornby track.

 

If you wanted to fit to a point, you would have to use a straight wall, and a radius 2 curved wall...and make up something to fill the gaps between the sleepers, possibly card glued underneath the point...

 

Apart from the expense though, as they are "collectables" now, they could be modified to fit Hornby track I think...as the geometry is the same...but would need to be glued in place.

 

The Standard Track grey walling is only the outside walls, as Standard Track has a solid base.

 

The geometry is also different.

 

Hornby did make some flexible walling, with railings, to fit System 6 type Hornby track.

 

It looked ok, but I have never had any to play with...

 

The TT sections were basically troughs to put the track in.

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