Starting afresh - Turntable power query

[DrewTheWordsmith]

Hi all. I've just registered but have tried to search for an answer to this question. Alas, I'm still unsure.

So, on a DC/Analogue track layout, how exactly does one power a Turntable (R070)? The impression I get is that you can use the standard DC controller that comes with train sets. I'm not compeletely new to model railways (more on that coming below) but electronics are NOT my strong point...

To give you the context, I've had a set before but didn't get very far with it before having to call time on it due to various circumstances. The plan I'm going for is a pretty compact 8x4 layout (I have room to go to 10x5 but I know the electronics involved will be a headache) in the style of a quarry/mine shunting yard. I'm envisaging a relatively simple oval with various sidings worked by 2, perhaps 3, locomotives.

I'm opting for DC for several reasons. Having had a browse through this forum the concensus seems to be DCC is the way to go when starting out and I can see loads of benefits to it and there's an obvious attraction to it. However, as well as wanting to keep costs down, it seems to me that despite the technology having been around for most of a decade, there's still not a great deal of choice and beyond basic start up layouts, it will become very complex to wire. This is just an impression, feel free to enlighten me!

As for including a turntable in my plan, it comes down to the fact that I find locomotives facing the same way all the time (without the hand of God to intevene) a bit of a fun-killer. The electronics of a reverse loop are prohibitive to me given how poor my skills are in this respect and also take up more space than I want to allow to turn the locos round. My enjoyment with model railways is in the problem solving aspect, 'managing' the railway.

I haven't got anything together yet, I'm still planning it so I don't find myself having needlessly acquired something I don't need and to make sure I avoid rookie errors. I could potentially still be swayed to DCC but the cost is really off putting. For now.

Anyway, any and all ideas/information welcome!

[Chrissaf]

Regarding DCC....................it will become very complex to wire. This is just an impression, feel free to enlighten me!

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Not strictly true .... well not in every feasible scenario.

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In principle DCC wiring is simpler. But it is also true that a very basic DC Analogue layout can be simple to wire too.

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However, the more complex the DC Analogue layout design becomes and the more points that are added increases, then the DC Analogue wiring can increase in complexity too. And in line with this increased complexity a better understanding of basic electrical circuits and how power flows through complex point configurations in an Analogue layout design is needed.

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Any complexity that you might have conceived with DCC by reading threads in the forum or elsewhere, probably resolves around discussion of DCC BUS implementations. This might sound complex, but the principles of a BUS implementation is very simple in reality. And small DCC layouts using Hornby track can be built without a BUS and just rely on using DCC point clips [not ideal in my view, but completely workable on a small sized layout such as a 6 x 4 which many newbies start with].

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So what I am really saying, is that DCC only needs to be as complicated as you want to make it.

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Getting back to your core question. How to power the turntable bridge motor on the R070 Turn-Table?. There is more than one way to do this. Hornby documentation uses a 'switch' arrangement to divert the output of a track controller to the TT. Thereby saving the cost of an additional controller.

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However, many newbies start of with a 'set' and then expand. The expansion usually involves replacing the basic controller in the set with something more robust, reliable and powerful of better quality. This invariably leaves the cheap basic set controller redundant. This redundant cheap set controller makes an excellent recycled controller to dedicate for the TT.

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TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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[Puffed Out]

Use a seperate controller for your turntable. Take you pick, there are many 2nd hand examples to choose from.

Some controllers have a seperate 12v outlet, that can used for the turntable.

I have an old 900 power controller, that has a 12v and a 14v outlet, seperate from the outlet for the track. Any switches you require can be sat on top of the 900 controller. 

 

That's the short answer. 

[DrewTheWordsmith]

Thanks both for your replies. So, different controller. Got it. 

 

In regards to DCC complications, I've seen more information that implies there's more soldering work to do with DCC and that's the real put off, because I do want to learn and understand the electronics better, it's just not the aspect I enjoy. But as with anything I suppose, the more you expand, the more complex it will be by it's very nature! Also, what is 'BUS'?

 

I suppose the real question(s) I should be asking is: how do I wire up/run a layout, any layout, with 2 controllers? How do the controllers 'know' whether they're controlling a loco or a TT? Is it just a matter of acquiring the correct (Hornby) pieces and putting them together in the right order? I presume you need as many pieces of power track as you do controllers? If you have to use non-Hornby equipment, is that just adding in things wires/switches etc or do you have to solder?

 

I know I know. Lots of questions. I promise I'm not a complete idiot, just an incomplete smart person  😉

[Chrissaf]

Some, if not many of your questions will be answered if you read my 'Getting Started' guide.

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You can download my PDF guide from the 'sticky post' (2nd one down) at the top of the 'General Discussion' forum. Note that clicking the download link may not appear to do anything obvious, the PDF will download silently in the background, so check your nominated browser download folder for the saved fie.

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Chapter 5 covers powering a DC Analogue layout and Chapter 6 for DCC Digital.

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....what is a 'BUS'?

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If you Google the BUS term, many hits will say that it is a set of thick BARS (as in Busbar) for the distribution of power.

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In DCC, it is more commonly a thick pair of wires connected to the track output of your DCC Controller that run under the layout following the routes of the track that are on the top of the baseboard.

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Then thin 'dropper' wires that are soldered to the track, can 'drop' down (hence the dropper name) through the baseboard to be connected to the BUS wires.

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In this way, the DCC power and digital command signal can be efficiently distributed to all parts of the layout (remember a DCC layout is 'all' always live) and be very tolerant of the type of issues that a non BUS powered layout might suffer from over time, for example loss of power to track sections due to loose or dirty track joiners, worn points (turnouts) etc.

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Personal view, but in my opinion to get the best user experience from this hobby, learning to solder is an invaluable skill to attain. The other key skill is owning and learning how to use a digital multi-meter test meter. A cheap meter can be purchased on eBay for less than £8 delivered.

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How to Solder tutorial.

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[EnGee]

As a relative newbie, let me give you my view on the DCC/DC debate.

 

DC involves lots of controllers, track that has to be joined with a mixture of connecting and insulating joiners, with points that double up as switches with damaged, corroded or dirty terminals terminals and a nightmare knowing which controller is going to control which bit of track. It is also impossible to individually control two trains on the same track. Any additional technology such as automatic points, signals, sound, etc will all need thier own system.

 

With DCC you just join all the track together, put the trains on the track, select the one you want and off you go (you do have to program each loco first (only once)) and that's it. All the trains can be controlled anywhere on the track all at the same time.

 

My own layout consists of over 50M of track and with the exception of point clips (made from bent sewing pins (with the head and point cut off!)) nothing more has been done to it. I do have automated servo controlled points, automatic signals and flashing lights everywhere and do plan on building a fair ground with lots of moving roundabouts etc. But that's because I like tinkering with electronics, not because I have to!!

I do not have any BUS wires (well not for the track, only for my electronic gizmos!)

 

 I am not disputing anything that anyone else says that soldering all the wires to the tracks makes a better job  and, to be fair, most of them do know more about it than me!, But I have had no problems with bad running or continuity issues and do sometimes wonder whether running BUS wires everywhere is a bit over rated. I do realize that the DCC signal is more sensitive than the DC signal but, like I said, it hasn't been a problem for me.

 

In my opinion you should just go for DCC from the start, it's easier to install and to use, you won't regret it!

Although I am sure other people may have a different opinion!