Need suggestions on repairing pony truck couplings

[Faircloss]

Hi Everyone,

I'm still working on my old R59 and have encountered a slight problem with the couplings for both Pony Trucks (X366 -  http://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/pdf/Tri-ang%20Service%20Sheets/No.005B%20Loco%20Bogies%20and%20Pony%20Trucks.pdf). Both of the couplings are broken and/or bent that I bought some replacements... the problem is, now that I have removed the old couplings... the replacement ones will not go on. The originals were not held in place by screws.

Please see picture below: I'm at a crossroads on what to do. The couplings feel like plastic, and the pny chasis feels like metal - how can I fix them on?

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[JJ73]

Either Glue the couplings on???

 Drill / take out the old bit of metal ( may be drill another hole in the middle???) then replace with the right size nuts & bolts???

 

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[Augustus Caesar]

I used to have a small riveting tool many years ago so maybe something along that line? Forgive the unintended pun.

[Ruffnut Thorston]

The original Tri-ang Railways instructions for replacing riveted couplings were in the 1962 book, "Tri-ang Railways The First Ten Years".

 

The couplings in you photo look like the metal versions of the Mk 3 couplings.

 

Basically, the instructions are, to place the coupling on the rivets, with the holes aligned with the riveted parts.

 

Ensure that the coupling is the correct way up...it can be easy to accidentally fit a coupling upside down. 😮

 

Using a hollow punch (originally suggested to use one of the original style contact plugs, no longer easily obtained. A suitable hollow punch would have a hole close, but slightly larger to the diameter of the holes in the coupling. It may be possible to use a short length of metal tube, or a suitable nut.) Push the coupling over the riveted part until it has seated.

 

Carefully ensure that the coupling is flat onto the metal part of, in this case, the pony truck.

 

Using a suitable punch, tap in the centre of the rivetted part, to re- spread it out to hold the coupling in place.

 

It would probably be a good idea to remove the wheels and axle before performing this task.

 

Carefully pull one wheel from the axle, and remove the other wheel with the axle.

 

On the assembly, check that the two wheels are at the correct distance, back to back measurement.

 

Note that the rivetted parts are cast integral with the pony truck, not rivets fitted in holes.

 

If the metal has snapped off, then you could drill and tap a hole for the central hole, and fit a suitable machine screw (bolt) from the bottom, cut off and finished flush with the top surface of the pony truck, to avoid fouling the body buffer beam.

 

The side holes in this case should have pins fitted into the pony truck, to prevent the coupling from turning.