Tobes248 Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Hey all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Whilst you wait for a reply, perhaps you would spend a few minutes reviewing the TIPs in the TIP page link below:.TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button..See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Check the contact fingers in the body are making good contact with the three contact strips on the chassis by the buffers and check that none of the wires has become detached at either end of the main PCB. The PCB wires are usually held on by little jumper clips which can fall off./media/tinymce_upload/cfff6366c055b73a0d924cf65d00a734.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobes248 Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 Check the contact fingers in the body are making good contact with the three contact strips on the chassis by the buffers and check that none of the wires has become detached at either end of the main PCB. The PCB wires are usually held on by little jumper clips which can fall off.I have double checked, but still don't seem to get any output. Do you happen to know which is the common feed out of the 3 on the buffer beam? Knowing me I could be trying the wrong one lol 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 I should know but can’t recall. I would guess the middle one is common and the outer ones are white and red. You could use a meter and check continuity back to the PCB which will be annotated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobes248 Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 I should know but can’t recall. I would guess the middle one is common and the outer ones are white and red. You could use a meter and check continuity back to the PCB which will be annotated.That was the right order, found it after a lot of wheel cleaning and meter testing lolI have managed to loose an LED in the process, don't suppose anybody has a spare Hornby X9576 part lying around do they? Impossible to get hold of now seemingly! 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 I did the same thing on a 56. The leds are in the body but the controlling resistors are on the PCB, so when I applied test voltage to the body the leds blew. Getting the desks out to access the leds was a real pig of a job, as they were also nil stock anywhere at the time, so it was a case of direct replacement with 0603 size SMD leds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 It is probably a bit late now, what I have is a two leads one with a 1 kilo ohm resistor in it that I use for testing leds, it prevents you blowing them up. The other thing that is quite important, when I was fitting a sound decoder to my Bachmann loco, I loosely put the body on and could not get the lights to work. It wasn't until I had screwed it down that the lights started working, with the body on loosely, there was not enough tension in the brass fingers to make a good connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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