Power clip locations

[BreatGritain]

Hello.

 

Please could someone look over this? I have built the layout without any thought for power, silly mistake I know.

 

Will this work? Can you see a better way to do it, using less power clip things?

 

The passing loop in the middle, I would like this to be isolated when not in use so no poeer clips required there, everywhere else I would like to be powered at all times. Thank you.

 

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[BreatGritain]

Hi!

 

First of all apologies, this post will be duplicated if/when Hornby approve the image on the last post I tried to make, but I really want to get resolved asap, hence the repost.

 

 

I have built this layout with any regard for power. I already have one set of power clips that came with an expansion pack, but I think i'll need more. Please can anyone look over the image and double check that where i've marked them will work. 

 

Is there a better way to do it?

 

Also, must I use the power clips this way? Is there any reason I can't cut the output from the controller underneath the board and run a feed from this to each location? Obviously making sure polarity is the same at each location.

 

Is there a better product to use than power clips (that doesn't require soldering)?

 

Thank you!

Tom

[Chrissaf]

Your image didn't have any key to indicate what the orange blobs and green dot were supposed to represent. Particularly the orange blob at the 6 'o'clock' position. These have been edited out in my reproductions of your image below:

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It is also not clear from your posted query as to whether you intend to use a single or a twin controller. Albeit, the text infers a single controller but that is only inferred and not categorically stated.

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The 'R8201 Link Wire' is a Hornby product that negates the need to have two track power connections to the same controller output.

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/media/tinymce_upload/ae83eddc1d758fdfea2c84e8570620ab.jpg

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On this occasion I am recommending that Insulated Rail Joiners are not used in this specific layout design because of the 'back to back' points at the arrowed location.

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Controller 1 needs to be connected to the right hand side of the points. So that the power feeds into the common 'Toe' end of the points.

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Technically, controller 2 should ideally connect where the arrow is pointing [point 'Toe' ends], but the only way to make such a connection would be to use wires soldered to the metal track joiners.....see PECO reference further below.

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Is there a better product to use than power clips (that doesn't require soldering)?

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There are no alternative 'solder-less' track power connectors. However, PECO sell metal track joiners that have the wires already factory soldered to them.... PL-80

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[BreatGritain]

Sorry for the lack of clarity Chrissaf.

 

The green dot was a suggested controller input and the badly drawn child like scribble orange lines were R8201's. Single controller.

 

Looking at my drawing against yours, I've overthought it massively, and your simple solution works perfectly. I'm really frustrated with how simple that was and that I didn't see it myself. Thank you.

 

One last question if I may, can I splice the output lead from my controller and feed it directly into those power clips? Or must the controller supply the track in one place, and then be split?

 

Above is an image to explain what i'd like to do. Hopefully it's a bit clearer than the last one, but unfortunately the child-like scruffiness remains.

 

Thanks again Chrissaf you're always really helpful.

[Chrissaf]

You can do it that way if you want to.

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I was making the assumption that the controller had a moulded plug on it and that cutting it off, might possibly invalidate any remaining warranty on the controller.

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Now that you have explained the meaning of the orange blobs in the original image. Although not strictly necessary, the additional orange blob power connection cross links would increase the reliability of the power distribution, such that no major track section is totally reliant on the transfer of power through the points.

[BreatGritain]

Thank you Chris,

 

Built today and working well. Thanks again for your help.