This is stopping being fun ... this has me beat?

[AusCam]

This is starting to stop being fun unless I am missing something REALLY fundamental. No matter what I have tried, without manual intervention, every layout I have built with point (turn outs?) the train stops at some point.

In desparation I followed the track mat that came with my base set (Night Mail) as shown in the photo, and once the train has switched to the inside loop, when it gets past the points closest to the front (on the inside loop) it stops. I have to manually flick the points to make it run again. (In the photo is where it stops)

If the points stay so the train will stay on the outside loop, no issue. Its only when they are switched to make it move to the inside the issues starts.

Surely this cannot be right. The train should just continue to trundle around the inside loop should it not until another set of points is changed?

Can SOMEONE please put me out of my misery :)

TIA

/media/tinymce_upload/a9fde8e11c8dc831724e22eb6cdbadd7.jpgDavid

 

 

[Chrissaf]

What can't be seen in your photo and you haven't stated in your text. Is whether you have one or two controllers (one for each loop or just one for the whole layout). If you are using one for the whole layout then you need to have a second feed from the controller for the inner loop, again this can't be seen in the photo and you haven't mentioned any secondary power connections in your text.

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The power connection requirements for the standard Hornby TrackMat (which inludes elements of your MidiMat) layout design is documented in my downloadable PDF ..... read further below for more details on your issue and how to access my PDF.

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Hornby points are made as 'isolating points' this means that they act as electrical switches to route the track power from the controller into the direction / route that the points are switched to. Thus, this also means that the route that the point is not switched to may loose power if there is no alternative power path.

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For maximum unbroken power distribution, power from the controller should always be fed into the 'Toe' [common] end of ALL of the points. Subject to the actual layout design in question, to achieve this might require multiple connections in parallel from the controller to the layout.

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Note also, that the condition of the points becomes critical to ensure reliable power distribution. The power transfer through a point is reliant upon the mechanical / physical contact areas between the fixed and moving rails. When these become, loose, tarnished or just dirty the transference of power can be compromised.

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This can be particularly noticeable on older points made of steel rails [rather than modern Nickle Silver] and can be a reason why these points come up for sale on the second-hand market. In my view [not everyone agrees with me on this view] buying old second-hand steel railed points is a false economy for the reasons I have just described.

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Some information on powering a DC Analogue layout is included in Chapter 5 of my downloadable 'Getting Started' PDF document. See the 'sticky post' [2nd thread down] at the top of the 'General Discussion' forum.

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TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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[AusCam]

I am only using one controller, the one that came in the box for the Night Mail base system. How do I get a second feed from this  or b) do I need to get a second controller? Or better, is there a controller that can be obtained that allows multipe feeds out?

I notice the standrad controller I have has some plugin points ( + and - terminals); can these be used and I assume I then need to get another peice of "terminal point track"?

TIA

[JJ73]

Well you do need to get another Power track (R8206) what you called  "terminal point track" for your inner loop, you can either get another 2 wires going from the outer loop power track  to the inner power track then that will work or as you say 'Even better' get a Double controller - my 1st choice is H & M Duette (they don't make them any more - only find them on Ebay - get it checked 1st) From £15.00 upwards

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or my second Choice is the H & M 2000 (R8012) £116.99 on Hornby Web site but cheaper from your Local Model shop)

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I notice the standrad controller I have has some plugin points ( + and - terminals); can these be used 

NO - these are for things like powering Points, lights, Signals, Turntables, etc!!!

What Chris is saying above - basically think of a Point as a Light switch - you flick the point to allow the loco pass from Outter to inner - as soon as the Loco is on the inner track & you switch it back - boom - the power is swiched off!!!

 

SIMPLES!!!  😀

[Chrissaf]

Read the downloadable 'Getting Started' document I have given the link to you twice now. Chapter 5 describes all you need to know.

[Chrissaf]

Can't find the downloadable link?

Navigate to the page shown in the top image and follow red text instruction.

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The PDF document will probably download silently into your nominated Browser download folder, so if nothing appears to happen look in your 'Download' folder.

[81F]

 Just to say it is possible to have two feeds from one controller, just plug more than one wire from the terminal (assuming the terminal is large enough to take the wires. For best results wist the wires together and solder the end that connects to the controiller.

 

If the twisted wires are too thick to go into the terminals get a small teminal block and connect them inbto that and take a single set of wires from the terminal block to the controller.

 

However, you will have to make sure the "positive" and "negatives" go to the corresponding rails otherwise you will get a short circuit.

 

Another even simpler solution would be to connect the outer and inner loops together electrically using short length of wire (ie outer rail outside loop to outer rail inside loop and the same with the inner rails)

 

However, I would recommend a two controller approach as you can run more than one train (one on each section) providing the two sections are totally isolated from eachother.

[RDS]

If you are only starting out and are considering a buying a second controller, I suggest you think very seriously about upgrading your Loco to Digital (DCC).  You will then need a DCC controller, which although it may cost a bit more than an additional DC one, the benefits are huge.

 

You will (after a slight mod to your Points by adding 2 Hornby Point Clips, item R8232), then be able to drive your Loco anywhere on your layout without having to worry about the position of Points or which controller you need to use. You can then add more Loco's which can all be controlled individually because with Digital you control the Loco and not the track.

 

I recognise that not everyone wants to go Digital but it is a system you can grow into, not out of.

[81F]

 Having given you a rather a long answer above I had a similar problem on my layout when certain points were switched in a certain combination which had me foxed for a while. The way I taced the fault was to leave the loco where it stopped and trace my finger along each rail until I found a "break" where current could not get across (i.e. an isolating gap or where a point was moved across so that the current could not go along the switching rail.

 

Having found the spot I placed a temporary connection wire either side of the gap to see if it solved the problem. Having established where the break was I installed permant link between a rail which I knew was live to the rail that was dead. In this case it was simply solved by three inches of wire connecting my mainline to a goods loop which was not physically close to where I had found the point which isolated the section.

[96RAF]

You can’t beat basic fault finding techniques 81F.

[AusCam]

Read the downloadable 'Getting Started' document I have given the link to you twice now. Chapter 5 describes all you need to know.

Thank you, yes this has helped. I was confused my a lot of conflicting info! For those in Australia, credit to MAS Hobbies in Perth and Maylands Railways (also in Perth) as well.