Kilverston Hall

[david_childs]

I have just bought Kilverston Hall at auction, listed as DCC ready.  In fact it has a Digitrax decoder fitted and looks as if the tender has hastily been accessed, a speaker removed and there are two loose wires coming from the decoder.

I am not yet DCC so want to convert it back to analogue.  How do I do this?

[ColinB]

I would take out the decoder, replace it with a blanking header, and sell the decoder on EBay the header with wires is worth about a £1=00. Don't rewire the decoder header, it is not worth the effort just buy a blanking header. It is a shame we cannot swap addresses I literally have about 50, from all the models I have converted. Try and see if the decoder works on DC, it might, don't use an H &M or older controller as these tend to damage them. Actually, if you are not worried about the decoder try it on DC as it is, unless it has been programmed with a different id, or the DC option disabled it should work. If it doesn't then fit the blanking plug.

[Chrissaf]

If it is indeed 'DCC Ready', then the decoder will plug into a socket. Assuming that this is so, then unplug the decoder and remove. Substitute the decoder plug that was in the socket with a 'bypass PCB' termed a 'Blanking Plate'.

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If it is a Hornby 'DCC Ready' locomotive then the socket is more likely to be a NEM652 8 Pin socket. 8 Pin Blanking Plates seem to be in short supply at present with many online retailers showing 'out of stock'. I have checked, Peter's Spares, Hattons, Rails of Sheffield, Railroom Electronics and all are showing zero stock levels.

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So if you just cannot find anyone holding stock of the 'Blanking Plate' and you have absolutely no use for the Digitrax decoder and not concerned about binning it, then you could cut off the plug, leaving a couple of cm of wires still attached.

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Join the Red wire to the Orange wire and the Yellow wire. Join the Black wire to the Grey and the White wire. Cut back and remove the Green wire. Just for the time being leave an insulated stub of Blue wire in case you need it for directional lighting (see below). Insulate joined wires, preferably with heat shrink tubing.

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If the loco has directional lighting, and you find that the directional lights aren't working with the basic 'Blanking Plate' described above. Then you may need to add a couple of diodes to the DIY home brewed 'Blanking Plate'. The diodes are connected to the Blue wire and the previously joined wires to create a 'half wave' rectified positive voltage on the Blue wire. This sounds complicated in text form (but it isn't), if you need it, then come back and advise here in this thread and I will provide a drawing and further guidance regarding the diode mod.

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You can then use the modified decoder plug as a makeshift electrical bypass 'Blanking Plate'.

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If your decoder socket should happen to be a MTC21 21 Pin connector, then advise back in this thread and an alternative solution can be given.

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TIP: As a relatively new poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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[david_childs]

I would take out the decoder, replace it with a blanking header, and sell the decoder on EBay the header with wires is worth about a £1=00. Don't rewire the decoder header, it is not worth the effort just buy a blanking header. It is a shame we cannot swap addresses I literally have about 50, from all the models I have converted. Try and see if the decoder works on DC, it might, don't use an H &M or older controller as these tend to damage them. Actually, if you are not worried about the decoder try it on DC as it is, unless it has been programmed with a different id, or the DC option disabled it should work. If it doesn't then fit the blanking plug.

 

[Howbi]

@david_childs..........when you want to submit a post please scroll down the page and type into the Reply Box and hit the green button........please avoid using the Blue buitton, it simply repeats the previous post..........HB

[david_childs]

Thank you both Colin and Chris.

I am at the bottom of the learning curve on DCC.  However, Digitrains had a blank PCB  for £1 so I sent for this, fitted it and Loco works nicely, except... it doesn't like my code 75 layout, fouling the points.  I think it is the two prongs in front of the bogie.  Not sure of the correct term!

So I now have a B17 with crew and lights that works, in fair condition, for about £65 all in.    I think the exercise serves as a warning to proceed carefully at online auctions, where the ability to scrutinize is limited by the quality and number of pictures available.

[ColinB]

Tell me about it, I have just bought a BR ex LMS restaurant car. It arrived 3 of the buffers are broken and they are the molded type. I checked the original description on EBay, no mention and no photos front and back. It is fixable but annoying. £65=00 is pretty cheap for a loco, so you can't complain, I have seen them for a lot more than that and if you know someone with DCC you can test that decoder and sell it, if is any good.