Soldering power leads directly to track ?

[96RAF]

You are correct in that the capacitor is there for RF interference suppression but on DC only. If your track is DCC then you do not need one.

 

The code on the picture of the power clip we often show appears to be 1T4 which I do not recognise. Chris will be able to help here.

 

[Chrissaf]

Standard power clip supression capacitor is 0.1µF ceramic at 50 volts [ONLY for a DC Analogue Layout]. I do not recognise the 1T4 code either.

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TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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Unable to make the link clickable at present due to the forum BUG. Copy and Paste the URL text manually into your browser. And this BUG also prevents images being posted as well.

[ray_liffen]

Thank you for your replies. The layout I am rebuilding* is DC so I'll add a suitable 0.1µF for each of the isolated tracks.

*The original automated (trains that create their own paths) layout   www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUkx5u-CQfk  dated from 2002 and had become unreliable (mainly points and joints) after much use. This time round I'm using exhibition carpet on the baseboard and foam ballast under the track for smoooth running.

[EnGee]

I do not recognise the the 1t4 code however most capacitors of this value will have 104 written on them.

This means 10 and 4 x zero or 100,000 Picofarads. Divide this figure by a million to convert to microfarads

i.e. 104 is 100,000 divided by 1,000,000 equals .1uf

[96RAF]

Have a look here - scroll down and you can clearly see the code on the blue capacitor...

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/railmaster-evaluation-version/#post-523657

Copy and paste as usual.

[Roger1707821911]

25W Antex more than powerful enough...beware some fluxes are EXtTREMELY corrosive!

 

Chalford

[sirstanley]

I solder to the side of the track and give the area a little rub with emery paper first, to clear any crud that may be on the track I find I get a better joint this way. I also use a gas soldering iron so I dont have to worry about dragging leads around. 

I run dcc with insufrogs so as long as I conect to all rails at points and about every 1M along straight runs I have no problems.