Motor replacement

[brian_b]

I have 2 Hornby engines manufactured in the mid70's. They take a lot of power (amps) to run, and I cant get enough into my tracks. IS there any way that the motors can be replaced with modern (lower amp) ones?

BrianB

[Going Spare]

Without knowing which locomotives are involved, it is difficult to answer your question.  Please decribe them, with Hornby catalogue R-numbers if possible.

[Chrissaf]

The motor magnets probably need to be remagnetised.

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look at "www.scalespeed.co.uk" they can return motors to working like new again.

[GWR 14xx Tank]

I have seen many conversion videos on replacing old Ringfield motors with 12v CD Motors, might be worth giving that a try. It is a bit of a bodge job though.

 

A word of warning, many people say that it is hit-and-miss to whether the bodge actually works

 

Sam's Trains has a video on doing the conversion, I believe a search for "Sam's Trains CD Motor Conversion" should do the trick.

[Chrissaf]

To understand why your loco motors might be drawing more current than they used to watch this video.

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[96RAF]

The hit and miss thing with DVD motors is twofold...

1. Some locos need a slim motor 9.5mm wide to fit the centre wheels on a 6 wheel tender drive or Co-Co diesel. Standard width is 12mm. Some ringfield housings cannot take a DVD motor as the intermediate gear chain axle sits within the motor housing recess. These housing have a magnet with a notch in the keeper.

 

2. Many DVD motors are 3v, some 6v and far fewer 12v with some as capable as 24v. You can run the lower voltage motors if you limit V-max (CV5) in your decoder if it is so capable.

 

The above does not take account of having to provide a sleeve to centralise the dvd motor in the housing, nor the need to fit a suitable pinion gear.

 

Look at Strathpeffer Junction for mod kits. Can’t post a direct link or image as the forum is having problems in that area.

[ColinB]

I assume they are X04 motors, ringfields take more than modern locos, but not as much as the X03/X04 type. As Chrisaf says if they are X04 motors it might be that they need remagnetising. If they are ringfields you can buy replacement armatures either off EBay or Lendons still do them. I think that is a better solution than CD drives.

[GWR 14xx Tank]

Someone once said to me that it is not the motor that spins the CD/DVD, but the one that slides out the drawer, that they use for the conversion.

 

Something tells me that this is not correct.

 

P.S: How come there is a Approved/Moved message at the bottom of my previous post? Did I post in the wrong section again?

[Chrissaf]

P.S: How come there is a Approved/Moved message at the bottom of my previous post? Did I post in the wrong section again?

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No ... just a basic ComMod technique used to help edit post positions in a thread. The dummy move resets the 'timestamp' to the current time. I used the dummy move technique to allow me to reposition my second post up the rankings directly under my first post because my second post was in effect and amendment to my first and I wanted to keep them together.

[Rana Temporia]

One version of the continental tank engine came with the Polly type chassis with a high revvying can motor fitted in a plastic holder which could be used as a replacement for the X04. The red version of the Polly with the phone number on the tanks can also sometimes be found with this type of motor amongst others. 

 

However, complete locos are usually cheaper than the plastic cradle on its own, if you can find one. The motors aren't bad. I prefer the X04 type but all my controllers can provide up to 1Amp as a minimum so old motors aren't a problem. The nice cheap PWM controllers I referred to in another thread have a 1A power supply and drive the old motors better than any other controller I have. 

 

When you try running the locos are the motors getting hot? If so I'd go for the re-mag. 

[GWR 14xx Tank]

Ahh, I understand now Chris. Thanks for the clarification.

[brian_b]

Without knowing which locomotives are involved, it is difficult to answer your question.  Please decribe them, with Hornby catalogue R-numbers if possible.

Item 1. 

This is a VR Diesel. (VR - Victorian Railways, Australia)

It is made in England, Hornby Hobies, Rovex Ltd, Margate.

In the box it says .. R317 - 318.

The name is "Sir Ferdinand von Muller"  S311.

It has 2 pairs of 6 wheels. Front wheel drive.

It is from the mid 1970's  Hornby range.

 

Item 2.

This is a NSW (New South Wales, Australia)

It is an 0-6-0 Diesel shunter.

No markings anywhere on the motor.

the box says Made in England by Rovex, Margate.

Code R165

Also mid 70;'s vintage.

 

I have since run them on a 2 meter test track, where I  can get satisfactory performance out of them

I have rigged the track with 3.8 amp power pack, and suitable controller.

With an amp meter in the setup, I can see that they are drawing from 0.5 to 1 amp.. the latter on the shunter. 

I haven't figured why I cant get enough power to the lines, so thats why I was wondering if I can get replacement motors.

From the comments I have seen, it doesnt look like an easy option.

Hope this fills in the info gaps.

Thanks

BrianB