R157/158 - need help.

[n.x.sss]

My father gave me some of his old hornby rolling stock/locos a few years ago. I hadn't used them in a long time and wanted to see if they worked. I tried a triang loco (R759) and it didn work at all. Looks to be a more technical problem as everything looks fine on the outside. Another set (R157/158) Was working, but only if I put pressure on the motor. Could anyone let me know what the issue is? Seems like something that could be easier to fix than the other ones.

 

 

[RDS]

Hi and welcome to the Forum.

It could be that the Items causing problems just need a good clean and a service.  Use something like IPA on a cotton bud to clean the wheels and track (do not use anything abrasive). Also check and clean carefully the thin brass strips that contact the wheels and ensure there is a good electrical contact. Finally, a small drop of model train oil on all moving parts. (not 3in1 or WD-40 or anything similar). They usually say if you can see the oil, you have put too much on!

Let us know how you get on with this, because of it doesn't work, a more extensive strip down will be required.

[The son of Triangman]

Sounds like the Hall (R.759) and the DMU both need a good services. Old locos shouldn't be run without servicing if they have been sat idle for a while.

[96RAF]

The first thing to do is pull the service sheets which being older locos you will have to get from Lendons or Hornbyguide.com Hornby service sheets on,y start at 200 onwards so do not cover the older models.

These will give you some clues as to what you are dealing with and some of the older service sheets have useful tips like do not take the magnet out without a keeper, etc.

[Fast Freddie]

The motor magnet rests upon a brass contact from which power is supplied to the motor. Possibly, by applying pressure to the motor you are re-establishing electrical contact.

There is a superb youtube video on the 'Johns Amazing Trains' Channel which describes both this contact and the entire motor bogie servicing proceedure in great detail.

My mint R157 DMU was recently unboxed after 40 years in the loft, and I have it running beautifully thanks to this video.

Steve

[n.x.sss]

Update: I have gotten it working but the motor overheats to the point where touching the plastic on the top and sides is warm and the drive wheels can burn you if you hold them for too long. Hall class still does not work. I'll take a look at the manuals, but here are some photos of the hall class taken apart. If anyone can diagnose the problem that'd be most helpful.

[n.x.sss]

Photos: https://drive. google.com/drive/folders/1joGZ0aZKt0KD09pVrWRdoKL0ISn8XSU (they aren't posting for some reason)

[Chrissaf]

@n.x.sss

Firstly, there is a BUG currently with the forum software that is preventing images form being posted.

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Secondly, even if there wasn't a BUG, any images you try to post will be held back for image approval by Hornby staff personnel. When working, that process can take anything up to 5 days due to Covid.

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Thirdly, your URL text to your Google cloud repository is a broken link and isn't recognised. Even with the URL text corrected [removing the erroneous 'space' character between drive. and google.com]. The URL link is still broken because Google says it cannot open that location. I assume that the link is a link to your private Google drive area and not accessible for public access.

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TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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Unable to make the link clickable at present due to the forum BUG. Copy and Paste the URL text manually into your browser.

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[81F]

 I recall R158 is the open cabbed Great Western Pannier in Great Western black livery which is rarer than the Green one. Although I have one it is actually made from a spare body and a much newer chassis bought separately off eBay so does not count. However getting a new standard 0-6-0 chassis (or even robbing one from a Railroad Jinty might be a solution.

 

As far as the Hall is concerned, most of its chassis is the same as the contemporary B12 in NE Black (and other early versions) Indeed my original Albert Hall is now one of these B12 having chosen to replace missing parts with the B12 equivalents! As a reult some spares are interchangeable between the two.

 

The parts that I remember that are NOT interchangeable are as follows:

 

1. Chassis extention plate at the front (the Hall's is longer and cranked to accomodate the cylinders.

2.The B12 is inside cylindered so does not use the cylinders or piston connecting rods. This also means that the Hall has a longer shouldered screw to accomodate the the connecting rod, a small spacing washer and coupling rods. This washer is very small and easily missed so it is all too easy to forget about it and drop it on the carpet while dismantlng the loco - sadly learned from experience.

3. The body fixing screw on the Hall is also much longer

4.The tender coupling bar is totally different.

In examining your loco check that the wire coming from the pickups is connected to the motor as this has come away from many of my models with the same X04 or X03 motors. This should be soldered to a small corugated brass plate that fits between the carbon brush and the holder. This plate can be quite tricky to get back in place so can easily pop out if not fitted properly lin the first place.

 

[Ruffnut Thorston]

The R. Numbers in the past have often been reused for later, different, models.

 

The original R.158 was one part of the original Tri-ang Diesel Railcar, Multiple Unit, DMU.

 

The motorised car is R.157, the unpowered car is R.158.

 

A trailer car to make a 3 car set was R.334.