Baseboard

[Mister T]

Hi everyone, I'm new to all this, bought my first set during lockdown (suspect I won't have been the only one) and have added a few bits since then.

I've just got my 9mmx2000mmx1200mm mdf baseboard so I can now finalise my layout and do some landscaping etc. The board will be sitting on an old dining table which is approx 1500mmx9000mm and my question is this, with quite a small overhang is it necessary to put battens underneath or would the flat piece of mdf on the table prove sufficient 

[96RAF]

The problem is not whilst it is sitting on the dining table but how it will flex when you lift it on and off. Track is likely to move and such things as points could he damaged as well as  scenic effects tending to crack. The requirement for a sturdy frame under the board is to make it resistant to this type of flexure. You also need to consider if motorising points will the motors be under the board or on top. If underneath then the frame needs to be deep enough to cater for clearance and for any wiring.

[Chrissaf]

MDF is heavy, so will flex reasonably easily when being lifted and moved. Plus you might not think so at present, but given time you are likely to need some wires under the board such as layout lighting scenic effects etc. As Rob alludes to above, the more rigid the baseboard is now the less likelihood of operational issues arising over time. Personally, I would have a total of four frame members running equally spaced along the long length of the board, plus two cross-members [one each end] screwed and glued to the ends of the longitudinal frame lengths. I suggest frame timber that is not less than 70mm high.

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If the frame is going to rest on the dining table surface, then I also suggest gluing some felt along the bottoms of the frame pieces to protect the table.

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[Buz]

Hi Mister T

The board will still need a proper frame underneath it.

Being MDF will need a good two coat of paint job to keep moisture out or it will disintegrate.

Marine plywood would have been a better choice but is more expensive and would still need painting.

Your base board is the foundation of the railway so no short cuts in construction or you will have no end of problems down the track.

Short cut on base board construction and the railway will fail many first layouts have failed because of poor baseboard construction.

Even a tiny one like mine at 4'6" square has to have a good solid base under it.

It is surprising just how much weight is added with track structures hills wiring and of course trains not to mention the owner leaning on it.

A single plastic house doesn't weigh much but a whole village does with all the little bits and pieces even more so it its up a hill and lit up as well.

regards John

[Mister T]

OK cheers looks like I have a busy weekend ahead. What size wood should I use underneath 

[Buz]

Hi mister T

 Something around 65 to 70 mm high by 20 to 30mm thick 3" X !" in the old measurements will give a nice solid base a rectangular frame with cross beams roughly 12" or 300mm apart.

Screws do not grip end grain very well so some 8mm dowels through the ends where you are going to put the screws in is a good idea, to give the screws something to bite into and hold  it all together.

A good quality PVA wood glue should be used as well.

regards John