Mathmonkey77 Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 Hello, my Flying Scotsman (tender-driven) has loco wheel slip. The train moves and the tender wheels work fine (to my knowledge) but the dummy drive wheels under the loco turn a little bit, stop, then slide across the rest of the track. It still works, just doesn't look very realistic. If I apply pressure to the middle of the loco chassis, the drive wheels will turn properly.This locomotive is from the R1019 Hornby Flying Scotsman Train Set (I think from the 1990's), if that helps.Many Thanks,mathmonkey77 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathmonkey77 Posted August 25, 2020 Author Share Posted August 25, 2020 P.S. I meant the loco body, not chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 I would check a few things:Check the alignment of the coupling and connecting rods - is there any point where they 'clash' / interfere and block the movement?Once you've check the rods, then how freely do the main drivers - non-driven - move side-to-side? This could be an indication that a good clean is required of the axles and a spot of lubrication.Never 'drown' the locomotive in oil - it always ends up on the rails and adds to problems!! Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Doc Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 Often the valve gear or connecting rods get slightly squeezed inwards (either from handling the loco or when stored/in the post if bought unboxed), and catch against each other or against the coupling rods. Sometimes very gently easing the slide bars (attached to the cylinders) outwards can help this, but the emphasis is on "gently". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathmonkey77 Posted August 27, 2020 Author Share Posted August 27, 2020 Hello all!I followed your advice, and while I was reattaching the shell to the chassie after cleaning and oiling, I discovered that the back driving wheels were slightly higher than the rest. After adding some weight under where the whistles are and slightly adjusting the tightness of the screw that holds the back bogie on, the locomotive works as perfect as can be! Thanks again! P.S. For those curious, I used an old AA battery taped to 2 heavy nuts for the weight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 Thanks for letting us know - glad she's running well for you. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 Hello all! P.S. For those curious, I used an old AA battery taped to 2 heavy nuts for the weight Don't leave the batteries in the loco. They will eventually corrode and leak, probably causing the loco to rot away where the contents of the batteries leak out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffed Out Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 As the Loco never had batteries and heavy nuts as ballast from new, it's a temporay fix/bodge.More investigation is required. 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWR 14xx Tank Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 If you are going to leave the temporary fix in the locomotive until you find a suitable replacement, make sure the battery isn't shorting on anything. Obvious, I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWR 14xx Tank Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 P.S: Not trying to make out as though anyone is thick here, just saying that sometimes the obvious things are the things that we miss, and only notice when it has blown up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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