Coupling arms catching

[Southern Belle]

I'm just back into 4mm with an absence of 50 years. I have bought several Hornby coaches with the arm on the couplings that tries to keep the gap between coaches at a minimum. Several of these arms don't swing freely, the 'down' part of the arm seems to be catching on the underside of the coach end. It is enough to derail the coach either as it goes into a curve or straightens out. Swung by hand yoo can feel it catch somewhere.

Anyone had the same problem and can offer a solution?

[Chrissaf]

Whilst you wait for a reply, perhaps you would spend a few minutes reviewing the TIPs in the TIP page link below:

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TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

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See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

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https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

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Unable to make the link clickable at present due to the forum BUG. Copy and Paste the URL text manually into your browser. And this BUG also prevents images being posted as well.

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[Going Spare]

It sounds as if a moulding needs excess plastic removed if two parts of the close-coupling mechanism are catching (possibly not fettled fully when removed from its sprue).  Examine all parts closely, dismantling if necessary, to see where the problem occurs and what can be done to smooth it out.

[ellocoloco]

Hi SB

 

As GS suggests, look for any excess plastic that could be causing the coupling mechanism to catch as it slides and maybe even a tiny dab of grease along the sliding edge!

 

My best suggestion though would be to get Hornby Close couplers R8220. These are based on a Roco design I have been using for over 30 years and form a solid bar between the vehicles and makes the coupling mechanism move in a controlled manner. This will be much more reliable for both pulling and pushing rolling stock as well as looking better and being easier to uncouple.

 

As you have said you are just getting back into 4mm after 50 years it might be worth looking at what coupling options are now available as there is a large variety compared to 50 years ago, and settling on a type that suits you. Many models now have what is nominally a NEM pocket into which a variety of couplings can be easily swapped in and out. I, for example use both Roco Close Couplers and Kadee 18s. Roco between wagons and Kadees at the ends of rakes of wagons or coaches and on locomotives. I use these with a variety of Electrotren (Hornby), Roco, Mabar, Mehano, Athearn, Atlas, Fleischmann, Sachsenmodelle, Liliput (Bachmann), Lima, Ktrain, and Bachmann China models and have no real issues. They also look a lot better in my eyes to the tension lock couplings of my Hornby/Triang youth! 

 

For any modeller now, I would suggest that once you have decided on a scale and gauge, the next two most important things are DC or DCC and choice of coupling!

 

Welcome to the forum and let us know how you get on with your coaches?